Towed the new hippo home. It got a collapsed bearing/crown wheel in the IRD, , 1x window lift cable snapped, stiff VCU and thats about it. Everything else seems fine. Got a spare IRD. So just need get a new VCU + bearings :)

Previous owner spent loads of money through the LR dealer the last 5 years. Around 3500£ the last year. Engine was brand new from England 35000km ago(around 20k mile). She just got fed up with it, the price on a new IRD + the work done came on in around 4000£. So i bought it for pocket money :eek:

V4lZpu.jpg
You would have thought the main dealer would have picked up on the ird/vcu problem before it did any damage?....
Just goes to show how useless main dealers really are [emoji2]
 
Yesterday I changed the two lower arm with ball joints, drop links, two front calipers, to try and find this juddering I have had since I purchased the FL 1 in October last year.

After all the jobs I have done on it, the judder is still there, so to recoup it as had the above new front &rear drive shafts, new GKN VCU, new UJ's new front lower tie rod, all three rear diff mounts, front rear brake discs shoes & pads springs and new handbrake cables, wheels balanced wit new tyres of the same make all round.

I think my next step is the top mount tie rods, but when do stop throwing money at these FL 1 the above does not count the fact I have added side bars, new sunroof, lights guards, full service including new fuel pump and filter, PCV filter air filter pollen filter, brass leak back joints & pipe work, FBH temp sensor, manifold change and all associated hoses (intercooler) etc.

Turned out the VCU was ok anyway so the old one which had been on the car about 12 months previous to me purchasing anyway.

This FL 1is driving me crazy I can honestly say I would not recommend one to anyone my opinion only of cause Arctic2
 

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Yesterday I changed the two lower arm with ball joints, drop links, two front calipers, to try and find this juddering I have had since I purchased the FL 1 in October last year.

After all the jobs I have done on it, the judder is still there, so to recoup it as had the above new front &rear drive shafts, new GKN VCU, new UJ's new front lower tie rod, all three rear diff mounts, front rear brake discs shoes & pads springs and new handbrake cables, wheels balanced wit new tyres of the same make all round.

I think my next step is the top mount tie rods, but when do stop throwing money at these FL 1 the above does not count the fact I have added side bars, new sunroof, lights guards, full service including new fuel pump and filter, PCV filter air filter pollen filter, brass leak back joints & pipe work, FBH temp sensor, manifold change and all associated hoses (intercooler) etc.

Turned out the VCU was ok anyway so the old one which had been on the car about 12 months previous to me purchasing anyway.

This FL 1is driving me crazy I can honestly say I would not recommend one to anyone my opinion only of cause Arctic2

Ouch. It is the luck of the draw with cars. Mine's been fine for 5 years - appart from the ABS modulator going (twice) and my heater matrix looks like its leaking (actually its looked like that for years but an L Series is very forgiving). Other stuff has been my fault, not the car's! Mind you I deserve a break after years of agro with a D1 V8.

Do you have a thread running for this juddering?

:behindsofa:
You don't have a bowling ball loose in the boot by any chance?
 
You would have thought the main dealer would have picked up on the ird/vcu problem before it did any damage?....
Just goes to show how useless main dealers really are [emoji2]

I agree. Whats the reason using them if they dont. Wasted money...
 
Took the spare wheel off because the carrier was half full of wet rotting leaves which I couldn't get out....So today I done my first ever Land Rover mod, I cut a big hole in the bottom of it :D

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30da5gw.jpg
 
Took the spare wheel off because the carrier was half full of wet rotting leaves which I couldn't get out....So today I done my first ever Land Rover mod, I cut a big hole in the bottom of it :D

2a4yedc.jpg

30da5gw.jpg

Lovely, going to take mine off this summer and paint it, what did you use to cut out the hole that size ?
 
I drilled a hole big enough for the jigsaw blade (it's only aluminium so nice and soft) and went as far as I could, then finished it off with a few more drill holes in the part the jigsaw couldn't reach. A quick file afterwards finished with a bit of wet and dry paper.
 
Filled the TD4 and x-type with diesel. Sadly left the UK for a couple of months for work so my wife has parked up her Citroen C3 and is using my cars and all my fuel:car:
 
Took it for a drive to Waiau - about 90 mins from home. Lovely day in the country. Clicked over 100K miles while we were out.

100K_5.jpg
 
Drove for the first time in over a week, engine started running roughly middle of last week so parked it up until I could get it to local independent LR garage, failed seal on injector pump had filled sump up with diesel:eek:
1 replacement pump, flush and refill engine oil, new filter, Freelander nows runs fine, but I'm now broke:rolleyes:
 
Mended my clock display

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Heated up the ribbon cable on the circuit board with a heat gun (I've been told you can do it with a domestic iron) and pressed it to the board until cool, and reversed the rubber that pushed the cable to the LCD panel.

atllhl.jpg
 
Bought a new one! L series with a proper soft top

I've got a couple of dirt-cheap mods you can do, for a nice bump in power if you're wanting it? Throw me a PM if you're not scared of cutting some wires to the pump :lol:

Once I've tested the newest mod, I'll be writing a full thread on the subject
 
Td4 - Full service, including crankcase breather and fuel filter,and recon VCU and bearings from Bell.

Note - Allmakes/Britpart VCU bearings are crap. I was given two sets and neither lasted a year.
 

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