Lifted the bonet, checked the coolant was there. ...it was....Bonus!.....closed bonet...job done..
 
Another boot gone on my o/s front driveshaft. Replaced driveshaft. Quicker and less messy than replacing boot, and not much dearer either.
 
Changed the rear brake bulb that had blown. Didn't work, changed it again, didn't work, got new bulbs, changed it again, didn't work. Better half comes out, looks, Say's that's the fog light you Muppet. Sheepishly change the lower light, brake light fixed!
Walk away as if nothing has happened.
Mike

Haha I did that too!!!!:eek:
 
Ordered a Borg & Beck clutch kit today too.
Have decided I'm going to stick with the DMF.

Have been having problems with my dash clock turning itself off and not keeping time.
A few weeks ago I was stuck on the M6 when they closed it when cleaning up an accident and I used the time to remove the clock and have a look.
The only thing I could find was that the left screw thread was loose, so I fitted a bigger screw & it's stayed secure & has been keeping time ever since!
 
How about a magic trick? :rolleyes:

Let's change that one:
2014-05-0114.32.31.jpg


to that looking nice one:
2014-05-0118.14.00.jpg

with fixed internals ;)
2014-05-0118.49.30.jpg

:D

14347.jpg

:bounce:
 
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decided to take the dif plate off and change the dif oil ,was a #### to get at the top bolts but got it off

quite a bit of metal filings in there :-(


but to be honest i think thats the first time in years its been taken off looking at the colour of the oil



not to sure what gasket sealant was on there but #### me its not easy to get off



will get a razor blade tomorrow to scape the dif housing
as for the teeth none seem to have chunks missing even thought there was more metal filing than i like



cant do anymore at car till i get the razor so tried scaping the cover in the kitchen and get all the bolt threads clean

 
Finished testing the coils - all seem to be OK. Finished plugs. Got sump guard off (easy!) Found mini ratchet.

Fitted new inlet manifold chamber and reattached all the miscellaneous gubbins.

Went to start... and... FIRST TIME. Get in. Still sounds lumpy :S

Let it run, changed the oil and filter.

Sump guard back on - with a lot of effing and jeffing. Took it for a quick run. Still lumpy. MIL light still on. Fek.
 
Fluid change for power steering.
replaced water pump
Fecked up cambelt
refitted cambelt
new drive belts
refilled and bled coolant
 
Needed to get one of the head lights out, anyone know if the lever thingy in the head light can be changed (btw its a 2004 facelift) also want to fit a bull bar and some driving lamps. So took the front bumper off (no big f**king deal)
every bloody screw was rusted fast and every plastic bung was shot, replaced all the screws with S/Steel ones and replaced all the clips the screws go into. Tomorrow will tap the four bottom holes for new bolts.
 
right here goes, I have a Freelander 1. 2000 millennium edition on a "W" plate, 1.8 petrol, with 133,000 on the clock.
I fitted a full set of Polly bushes, front brake discs and pads, antiroll bar drop links, new exhaust from cat back, wax oiled the underneath, changed the Oil, Filter, Dissy cap, leads, rotor arm, plugs, air filter, fitted a kenlowe thermostat to one of the fans and a manual switch to the other, I think I spent more than the landy is actually worth but I still love it, I now need 2 new tyres, the drivers door lock mechanism and source a new or recon viscous unit as its running in mondo mode at the moment. I'm determined to get it to 200,000 miles :)
 
You did all that? That's just asking for hgf within 2 weeks! In my experience freelanders know when to break just after you spend lots of time and money on them

Has a k series engine ever made it to 200k?
 
You did all that? That's just asking for hgf within 2 weeks! In my experience freelanders know when to break just after you spend lots of time and money on them

Has a k series engine ever made it to 200k?

mine is halfway there,does that count.lol:D
 

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