Gearbox #3 going in along with a clutch change.
Out comes the disaster that is an LOF HD unit and in goes a more gentle Valeo model...

clutch-out-swap.jpg
 
Interestingly when my son had a couple of qoutes for a new tdi clutch neither of the specialists offered a LOF clutch as an option.
Hope it goes well.

Theres a reason for that, mainly driving around on the road with occasional off road (fields/farm land) type activities you don't need such a strong spring set that transfers to much (pulsating) energy into what is a complex gearbox.
You also don't need those forces transfering across to the transmission in general.

I think they possibly have thier place, in a competition vehicle, one with strengthened halfshafts and drive members, pegged diffs and uprated transfer and gearboxes.
In a standard car all they do is introduce a death rattle to the syncho's and selectors. This causes the clients to complain about the horrible noises that wasn't there before.

I didn't see anything special about them, they look like a well made Chinese product with some peripheral Britpart bits to make a 'kit'.
It's not bad quality it's just not neccesary, I made a mistake fitting it in the first place and would urge others not to make the same (expensive) error.
 
I know it's a controversial opinion on here, but I quite like the LOF clutch for the TD5. The friction plate is all one piece which is good. I've had problems with the centre boss coming loose on makes where it's separarte, and just staked or peened into a sheet-metal disc. So I'm hoping it's likely to be more reliable. The release bearing and its casing are all-metal rather than the usual plastic bodied ones. There's some nice positive spring clips to hold the bearing on to the fork, and the pushrod onto the other end of the fork. I put this lot in when I changed the gearbox in February 2021 and it's been OK since. The gearbox can't tell me whether it finds it more fierce, but so far so good.

Of course, your mileage may vary!
 
Just done an oil and filter change this morning. Now I've got such a high mileage engine I don't work out the service intervals by doing sums in my head. I do this in the spring and the autumn instead, so it happens about every six months. I've also fitted one of those oil valves that go semi-permanently in the sump plug hole, and allow you to drain the oil through the valve when you want to. I've done this because I keep expecting the plug threads in the alloy sump to strip. Every time I tighten the bung these days it feels a bit less positive when I reach maximum tightness. Sure enough I found one or two bits of semi circular swarf of the kind you get when threads are about to strip. So I'm glad I put the valve in, so they don't wear any more. It tightened fairly positively. However, even this wasn't plain sailing. The hexagonal part of the valve disappeared up inside the recess where the plug goes and out of reach of my socket. I "sacrificed" the socket by grinding a taper on it, so it would follow the valve into the recess, and did it up another couple of turns.

I'm also pleased to see that my coolant loss seems to have abated. I put a new cap on the reservoir and that seems to have cured it. The TD5 coolant cap has a tiny breather in it, and after a while these seem to breathe a little too freely and let the coolant out. I'm glad it didn't need anything too much like hard work, like a new head gasket.

So I hope that'll all stay put for another 6 months.
 
Just done an oil and filter change this morning. Now I've got such a high mileage engine I don't work out the service intervals by doing sums in my head. I do this in the spring and the autumn instead, so it happens about every six months. I've also fitted one of those oil valves that go semi-permanently in the sump plug hole, and allow you to drain the oil through the valve when you want to. I've done this because I keep expecting the plug threads in the alloy sump to strip. Every time I tighten the bung these days it feels a bit less positive when I reach maximum tightness. Sure enough I found one or two bits of semi circular swarf of the kind you get when threads are about to strip. So I'm glad I put the valve in, so they don't wear any more. It tightened fairly positively. However, even this wasn't plain sailing. The hexagonal part of the valve disappeared up inside the recess where the plug goes and out of reach of my socket. I "sacrificed" the socket by grinding a taper on it, so it would follow the valve into the recess, and did it up another couple of turns.

I'm also pleased to see that my coolant loss seems to have abated. I put a new cap on the reservoir and that seems to have cured it. The TD5 coolant cap has a tiny breather in it, and after a while these seem to breathe a little too freely and let the coolant out. I'm glad it didn't need anything too much like hard work, like a new head gasket.

So I hope that'll all stay put for another 6 months.
Do you have a link to the drain tap?
 

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