RustyDefender
Well-Known Member
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Installed new dash instrument bulbs.
Super glued myself to the steering wheel while repairing the speedo.
Fixed heater blower. Some reason not getting full volts((4v) so clean glass fuse holder & 12v has appeared. Both speeds work
Put 50litrs of fuel in it
Enjoyed my day off driving it in the rain
Super glued myself to the steering wheel while repairing the speedo.
Fixed heater blower. Some reason not getting full volts((4v) so clean glass fuse holder & 12v has appeared. Both speeds work
Put 50litrs of fuel in it
Enjoyed my day off driving it in the rain
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Drove it. Collected 10 bales of horse bedding as idiots want to charge £20 to deliver. So cheekly asked for a further discount on bulk buys.
Pressed the horn to catch Mrs attention …. And find the horn did not work & the mrs was happily still oblivious to me heading towards her.
Everything else still works from dash out yesterday so will be a grill off and smack the horn.
Pressed the horn to catch Mrs attention …. And find the horn did not work & the mrs was happily still oblivious to me heading towards her.
Everything else still works from dash out yesterday so will be a grill off and smack the horn.
One of the spade connectors used to drop off mine. Only ever noticed every MOT
Can be pushed back on with fingers through the grille.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
No looked through there. Normally lack of use causes this to seize up. Will check the horn again when I put the winter muff (goes behind the grille) back on in a few weeks.
Rusty Bucket
New Member
Dropped the front axle for a sand blast, paint and rebush, no problem until I took of the diff to check the reason for excessive backlash......
Looks like the PO, lets call him Stu Pedd (not his real name), went deep wading without a wading kit, flooded the diff and then must have left it for a while!
Knew there would be problems when I drained the old oil and it looked bad. Found rust everywhere, all the bearing races pitted, adjusters rusted in the caps, diff carried/pin worn (cause of the backlash)....... Thanks to Stu! Thankfully run out was 0.03mm, the backlash an in spec 0.12mm and the crown wheel/pinion look undamaged aside from a little surface rust.
On the bright side, wanted to fit Ashcroft ATBs and now have an excuse for the front. Ashcroft service is fab, ordered AATB with bearings, crown wheel bolts (old lock washer type fitted), pinion bearings and flange first thing Monday. Delivered 09:30 Tuesday!
Diff totally stripped, old bearings and carrier added to my every growing pile of scrap Land Rover metal. Case, wheel and pinion wire brushed and degreased. Just waiting for the 39.5mm slip gauges and will rebuild it Friday. Then refit the front axle this weekend, better than new.
Take a deep breath and then press on with dropping and refurbing the rear axle, hopefully Stu hasn't trashed that diff too, could do without rebuilding the rear diff this year.
Looks like the PO, lets call him Stu Pedd (not his real name), went deep wading without a wading kit, flooded the diff and then must have left it for a while!
Knew there would be problems when I drained the old oil and it looked bad. Found rust everywhere, all the bearing races pitted, adjusters rusted in the caps, diff carried/pin worn (cause of the backlash)....... Thanks to Stu! Thankfully run out was 0.03mm, the backlash an in spec 0.12mm and the crown wheel/pinion look undamaged aside from a little surface rust.
On the bright side, wanted to fit Ashcroft ATBs and now have an excuse for the front. Ashcroft service is fab, ordered AATB with bearings, crown wheel bolts (old lock washer type fitted), pinion bearings and flange first thing Monday. Delivered 09:30 Tuesday!
Diff totally stripped, old bearings and carrier added to my every growing pile of scrap Land Rover metal. Case, wheel and pinion wire brushed and degreased. Just waiting for the 39.5mm slip gauges and will rebuild it Friday. Then refit the front axle this weekend, better than new.
Take a deep breath and then press on with dropping and refurbing the rear axle, hopefully Stu hasn't trashed that diff too, could do without rebuilding the rear diff this year.
0utcast
Member
Yesterday, finally got around to putting the roof rack on the Tithonus (or at least started).
Bought the fabricated brackets from a guy near Solihull who makes them similar to the MOD ones, but a bit thicker and chunkier. Had them for a few months, had to build up the courage to drill holes in the roof. Was a bit of a job for a bolt in replacement. Because they bolt through the roof into the internal roll cage, the existing bolts in the roll cage have to be cut and man handled out from between the cage and the roof.
Luckily got them all put up in one day, next step is to get some 30x40mm box section for the rails, then put the bargain roof rack on top.
Bought the fabricated brackets from a guy near Solihull who makes them similar to the MOD ones, but a bit thicker and chunkier. Had them for a few months, had to build up the courage to drill holes in the roof. Was a bit of a job for a bolt in replacement. Because they bolt through the roof into the internal roll cage, the existing bolts in the roll cage have to be cut and man handled out from between the cage and the roof.
Luckily got them all put up in one day, next step is to get some 30x40mm box section for the rails, then put the bargain roof rack on top.
The "Mudball" has a fresh MOT.
Tight on emissions at idle so had to raise it 30rpm and the HC cleaned up
. Needs to be looked at with a cup of tea in hand
1 rear indicator didn't work (so he waved his finger at me) But it worked 20mins earlier when he tested the small trailer so he let me off
.
I had fixed them in the morning cos the rear light didn't work, brake ok. The indicator needed a clean too, they both worked when I left home.
So 2 fresh clean MOTs.
Still a couple more MOTs to get but they will be clean and clear with no sweating on the RR and big trailers.
J
Tight on emissions at idle so had to raise it 30rpm and the HC cleaned up
. Needs to be looked at with a cup of tea in hand1 rear indicator didn't work (so he waved his finger at me
) But it worked 20mins earlier when he tested the small trailer so he let me off.I had fixed them in the morning cos the rear light didn't work, brake ok. The indicator needed a clean too, they both worked when I left home.
So 2 fresh clean
MOTs.Still a couple more MOTs to get but they will be clean and clear with no sweating on the RR and big trailers.
J
Went to use the 90 for work early this morning. On turning the ignition key, there was no power. The battery shouldn’t have died as it’s only 9 months old and only used three days ago when it started fine. So a job for this week is to charge it up and see if it’s holding charge and then the alternator too.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Have you thought about fitting an isolator switch? Done this to mine & starts every time.
It may sit there for a few weeks without starting. That way if there is a problem I know it’s the battery,before getting the tools out to inspect the rest.
(Last batter drain was a relay stuck on)
Son has an isolator switch on his, definitely helps the life of the battery.
Been re wiring the beacon, rear work lights and cb on the tdi after refitting the roof rack.
I hate doing wiring I find it such a chore.
Mind you not as much of a chore as stripping the boot trims and rear seats out of the Golf after all this rain. Common problem according to the thousands of videos on YouTube, what fun.
I hate doing wiring I find it such a chore.
Mind you not as much of a chore as stripping the boot trims and rear seats out of the Golf after all this rain. Common problem according to the thousands of videos on YouTube, what fun.
Got an isolator switch, fitted to the seatbox. I really ought to use it!
