Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
You cutting that rust out & welding in a panel?View attachment 255328 So it ends for today
doriz
Well-Known Member
Looks like I will be cutting out the vent panels completely and where the wing fixing has melted away over skin that first. I’m going to cut away the top of the bulkhead that sits behind the dash too. The front outrigger has gone anorl so that’s coming out too. Then where the inner arch bolts to the chassis it has exposed a small hole in the chassis. I’m not concerned although the parts spend is getting near a grand to date and I’ve got more stuff to buy
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Have you chatted to YRM to see if they can make the bulkhead weld in replacements longer?Looks like I will be cutting out the vent panels completely and where the wing fixing has melted away over skin that first. I’m going to cut away the top of the bulkhead that sits behind the dash too. The front outrigger has gone anorl so that’s coming out too. Then where the inner arch bolts to the chassis it has exposed a small hole in the chassis. I’m not concerned although the parts spend is getting near a grand to date and I’ve got more stuff to buy
This would get towards the other vents. Just remove & reweld bonnet brackets
doriz
Well-Known Member
No I haven’t got that far yet. I note they do a single panel that spans the front. Like you say, if they could fabricate one with a longer skirt then it would just be a case of welding the bonnet to bulkhead gutter back on. Once I’ve removed the previous poor replacement panels I will know to what extent I need to repair. As the front right half of the bay is exposed I may as well do a “proper job, chief” the only issue I have now being when the beating gets turned back on and I have other priorities
v8250
Well-Known Member
LR wiring strikes again [!] Headlights decided not to provide their usual luxurious luminosity...no main beam, turn on full beam and left headlamp comes ON, right headlamp comes on at less than candle power; bugger Out with DMM, isolate headlamp wiring from main wiring loom...there's a high resistance short between main & full beam somewhere upstream/behind bulkhead. My money's on the full beam/indicator stalk
I then got distracted with my sliding window locks. Often these wear out at the lock upper rubber and/or the inner arm resulting weak lock function. Made a tea, dunked a few biscuits and "bingo...!" Cut up and triple folded some thin plastic, fitted into inner arm slot and glued into place. Re-fitted window locks and "yay...!", proper functioning window locks.
Late afternoon hunger and a fridge full of Christmas leftovers took over headlamp repairs, that'll be tomorrow's fun. In other news the rear right axle to hub seal has decided to leak diff oil into the inside of the brake drum That's Thursday taken care of...
Friday drop both props and install new HD UJ's. Life with a Land Rover is always so joyfully busy...
Out with DMM, isolate headlamp wiring from main wiring loom...there's a high resistance short between main & full beam somewhere upstream/behind bulkhead. My money's on the full beam/indicator stalk I then got distracted with my sliding window locks. Often these wear out at the lock upper rubber and/or the inner arm resulting weak lock function. Made a tea, dunked a few biscuits and "bingo...!" Cut up and triple folded some thin plastic, fitted into inner arm slot and glued into place. Re-fitted window locks and "yay...!", proper functioning window locks.
Late afternoon hunger and a fridge full of Christmas leftovers took over headlamp repairs, that'll be tomorrow's fun. In other news the rear right axle to hub seal has decided to leak diff oil into the inside of the brake drum
That's Thursday taken care of...Friday drop both props and install new HD UJ's. Life with a Land Rover is always so joyfully busy...
doriz
Well-Known Member
My money is on the headlamp stalk anorlLR wiring strikes again [!] Headlights decided not to provide their usual luxurious luminosity...no main beam, turn on full beam and left headlamp comes ON, right headlamp comes on at less than candle power; bugger
I then got distracted with my sliding window locks. Often these wear out at the lock upper rubber and/or the inner arm resulting weak lock function. Made a tea, dunked a few biscuits and "bingo...!" Cut up and triple folded some thin plastic, fitted into inner arm slot and glued into place. Re-fitted window locks and "yay...!", proper functioning window locks.
Late afternoon hunger and a fridge full of Christmas leftovers took over headlamp repairs, that'll be tomorrow's fun. In other news the rear right axle to hub seal has decided to leak diff oil into the inside of the brake drum
Friday drop both props and install new HD UJ's. Life with a Land Rover is always so joyfully busy...
v8250
Well-Known Member
My money is on the headlamp stalk anorl
I'm feeling a bit stupid really, we all know these are annual consumables and should have at least one G grade spare
doriz
Well-Known Member
My last one cost £32 for a Lucas part - just in time spares, global supply chain solutions. Can’t be keeping every spare on the shelf as every part on a defender could be classified as an annual requirementI'm feeling a bit stupid really, we all know these are annual consumables and should have at least one G grade spare
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Have you not made an emergency switch?I'm feeling a bit stupid really, we all know these are annual consumables and should have at least one G grade spare
Leave landrover plug on & remove switch. Get cables & insert together into a connector. Yes it’s a bodge & you can’t switch it off but you can see to get home.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Go on what happened… you know it’s safe place & no one will laughStarted fitting the diesel heater.. ended up in A&E for a couple of hours
(of course we hope all is well)
v8250
Well-Known Member
@Hicap phill , already have a secondary switch...its the military rotary switch in the dash I was thinking of adding a bypass full beam switch only this morning...12v feed in, 2x out (one to stalk switch, one to back up switch) :. 2way switch option to bypass any future stalk failure.
I was thinking of adding a bypass full beam switch only this morning...12v feed in, 2x out (one to stalk switch, one to back up switch) :. 2way switch option to bypass any future stalk failure.
