I'd forgotten about that
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
You can have the full, unedited vidEr pictures please or we won't believe you
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Where are you? Cheshire way?I'd forgotten about that
But it only injects extra at the point "it" decides to regen the DPF, not all the time.
I dont do brim to brim MPG calcs, it is what it is, We love the car so that's it.
J
I can only see 1 sensor too.
Some bedtime reading, probably best to read it a few times
. Many things could affect the fueling by the looks of itJ
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I understand that about the DPF. However Kermit's DPF has been gutted so it may be that firmware mods were done (badly?) at the same time.
I'd be thinking sensor failing (like crank or cam) or connector somewhere.
I know a guy with a big building company who runs several late model, top of the range 4x4s, basically for street cred in London. He frequently drives them 500miles back home to here, West Kerry. He recons that the best for fuel economy is the BMW twin turbo V8 petrol (M series nutter machine) and the worst are the V8 diesel and supercharged petrol Range Rovers. He reckons the new Defender is awful as well, but hasn't used it on long trips yet! Others I know with V8 diesel Landcruisers report poor fuel economy. My TDI 200 gives 30+ and more if driven gently, similar to my (for sale) RAV4. With any big V8 it's going to take a lot of fuel just to get it running properly with lots of big cylinders, and any throttle will just multiply this effect
Wazzajnr
Well-Known Member
OK, from what little I know of these I would say that's poor even for the 3.6 with the 6 speed box.
You mentioned the clutch not locking up the other day. Is it Definately getting to 8th gear? Worth trying it in manual and making sure it is actually changing up all gears. I believe you should only be seeing about 1400rpm at 80.
If the dpf has indeed been deleted then I would certainly get it to a remap company who knows what they're doing. It's never going to be as economical as a fiesta but for comparison, my other brick is a 3.0tdv6 vw amarok that weighs as much as the moon. Driven carelessly around town returns 27mpg. Towing the tin tent at a steady 65mph returns exactly the same. Empty and not towing, at steady 80mph on cruise returns about 33mpg so I would be expecting within 1-2 mpg of that from yours.
I think i need to get the fuel map checked then. Any suggestions for Shropshire/Cheshire?
What issues would cause a blocked dpf? Wondering if there could still be a problem there if the dpf was gutted but the root cause not fixed? I think I've read a manifold leak can cause dpf problems, don't know if that can cause mpg woes though
What issues would cause a blocked dpf? Wondering if there could still be a problem there if the dpf was gutted but the root cause not fixed? I think I've read a manifold leak can cause dpf problems, don't know if that can cause mpg woes though
If it was remapped for power it will use more fuel and you'll lose that. Anything that affects flow (cat. delete, DPD etc) will affect how it runs and should be remapped on a rollimg road - sounds like yours was. Any leak anywhere will throw a sensor out and cause oddities. The TD6 engine inlet manifolds were famous for warping amd allowing leaks but I am not sure the TDV8 has any issues there. A leak would certainly cause some issues.
done some more digging into tyre wear and alignment...
i thought camber was off on the front left wheel because its wearing unevenly compared to the other 3
however.
the car doesnt pull or wander, tyre pressures are according to the book.
i think the wear is a combination of tyre type, pressure and the fact its front left (tends to work a bit harder than the front right)
i'm going to swap the front tyres over and increase the pressure a couple of pounds, which will add slightly more wear to the centre of the tyre vs the outside edges
i thought camber was off on the front left wheel because its wearing unevenly compared to the other 3
however.
the car doesnt pull or wander, tyre pressures are according to the book.
i think the wear is a combination of tyre type, pressure and the fact its front left (tends to work a bit harder than the front right)
i'm going to swap the front tyres over and increase the pressure a couple of pounds, which will add slightly more wear to the centre of the tyre vs the outside edges
Datatek
Well-Known Member
If you are swapping tyres left to right, make sure they are not unidirectional. If they are, you can only swap front to back on the same side.
yeah, i've not seen anything that says uni-directional.. they are falken wildpeak at3wa
