hef19898 said:
Today was another night shift I just finished off, including some child work, ah, support from the kids, with the aim of getting her through MOT / TÃœV... And, I'll be damned, the right front lights do the exact same thing as when I did the front years ago: side indicator light not working, front light beam not working, indicators are working despite having no earthing, parking light acting as an indicator light... And stupid me did NOT summarize the solution last time I sorted it out. Oh, and I broke the side indicator glass. Did I mention MOT is due tomorrow, being the last day of the months? And with work, there will be an early shift tomorrow, as my friendly inspector is now working 90 minutes away from my place. Even better, while solving, almost, the ignition and running problems, I managed to melt the window cleaner tank. Guess what was on the MOT findings? The washer pump being dead...

She doesn't like me a lot lately... Any idea how I can smooth over my relationship with a 42 year old British lady? ;-)
Click to expand...
Chocolate. Never known a British woman who resisted chocolate.
 
Datatek said:
On what model & year of vehicle?
Click to expand...
Heh, thanks for your interest :). p38 2001 4.0 HSE. It had a meltdown and showed the 35mph hard fault, had to drive 40 miles on bump stops. First test showed the pump not working so swapped that out. While I was at it took the valve block apart and replaced the seals as it was slowly sagging over a few days and figured that would need doing, considering I have already put in new air bags. Got it all reset and not showing any faults. The tank fills up after leaving the tailgate open and the compressor stops as you expect, but when shutting the tailgate it just doesn't rise up, normal ride height light continually flashing. When I turn it off all the solenoids flicker and the car wobbles a bit, so there is some pressure getting through. So I figure I have got something wrong in the valve block rebuild.:) got me stumped for one day. :)
 
Phygital said:
Heh, thanks for your interest :). p38 2001 4.0 HSE. It had a meltdown and showed the 35mph hard fault, had to drive 40 miles on bump stops. First test showed the pump not working so swapped that out. While I was at it took the valve block apart and replaced the seals as it was slowly sagging over a few days and figured that would need doing, considering I have already put in new air bags. Got it all reset and not showing any faults. The tank fills up after leaving the tailgate open and the compressor stops as you expect, but when shutting the tailgate it just doesn't rise up, normal ride height light continually flashing. When I turn it off all the solenoids flicker and the car wobbles a bit, so there is some pressure getting through. So I figure I have got something wrong in the valve block rebuild.:) got me stumped for one day. :)
Click to expand...
As you say, you may have got something wrong when you rebuilt the valve block, like coils not back on the right solenoids for example. If you remove the little silencer at towards the rear of the valve block, is there any air leaking out?
Are the connectors fully together in the EAS box?
Was there any white powder contamination in the valve block?
 
Checked and emptied the dehumidifier, checked the trailer wiring connection as thought from RAVE there would be a permanent live in there that I could tap off to trickle charge via, but no luck.
Then later on realised that there is a permanent live to the tailgate release circuit, and as I have extended that to a doorbell push on the side of the parcel shelf (earthing issues via the door latch for the original push release) I should be able to tap into that instead for charging. But as it was ****ing down decided against doing that and went to the garden centre for lunch with the wife in her little faithful Ka instead.
 
Scotiawhiskers said:
Checked and emptied the dehumidifier, checked the trailer wiring connection as thought from RAVE there would be a permanent live in there that I could tap off to trickle charge via, but no luck.
Then later on realised that there is a permanent live to the tailgate release circuit, and as I have extended that to a doorbell push on the side of the parcel shelf (earthing issues via the door latch for the original push release) I should be able to tap into that instead for charging. But as it was ****ing down decided against doing that and went to the garden centre for lunch with the wife in her little faithful Ka instead.
Click to expand...
Should be a permanent live in 12s or 13 pin socket if you have one, might just be blown fuse if not there.
 
kds said:
Should be a permanent live in 12s or 13 pin socket if you have one, might just be blown fuse if not there.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that confirmation I wasn't mis-reading RAVE. The wiring diagrams there do my head in after years of Haynes / Clymer bike loom simplicity.
I'll try probing direct in the socket, tomorrow if the rain gives a break. I was backprobing the connectors where the cable goes from behind the right tail-light loom down to the socket, as I want to basically lock the trickle charger in the boot section with the dehumidifier.
 
Scotiawhiskers said:
Checked and emptied the dehumidifier, checked the trailer wiring connection as thought from RAVE there would be a permanent live in there that I could tap off to trickle charge via, but no luck.
Then later on realised that there is a permanent live to the tailgate release circuit, and as I have extended that to a doorbell push on the side of the parcel shelf (earthing issues via the door latch for the original push release) I should be able to tap into that instead for charging. But as it was ****ing down decided against doing that and went to the garden centre for lunch with the wife in her little faithful Ka instead.
Click to expand...
There is a permanent live in the 7S trailer connection, left hand side of boot behind the panel, it's fused so a much better option for charging. I fitted 13 pin trailer sockets to mine so I can just plug my solar chargers in, no need to even open the car. 13 to 7 pin adaptors are available cheaply for trailers with old 7 pin plugs.
 
Last edited:
Datatek said:
As you say, you may have got something wrong when you rebuilt the valve block, like coils not back on the right solenoids for example. If you remove the little silencer at towards the rear of the valve block, is there any air leaking out?
Are the connectors fully together in the EAS box?
Was there any white powder contamination in the valve block?
Click to expand...
Yay! Had the coils the wrongs way around! Wouldn't have thought about that if it were not for your prompt. Thanks a mill!!!!
 
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