1988smithy
Well-Known Member
As @Datatek says! I get that, says water in fuel instance then a number. Don't think its anything to worry aboutJust had a look at the diag thingy, apparently there is water present in the fool filtercan you drain it off or new filter required?
Forgotten already!! I like ready fixes
rich28uk
Well-Known Member
Look like it, have it a good poke and hammering and nothing fell off, looks like it’s just the thin steel on sill that’s gone at the moment, will know more when I get round to cutting it out, and can see inside, weakest point at the moment is the very corner of the arch and sill.
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Sounds like you caught it early
one I looked at had gone thru to the jacking point 'gusset' and the pad was bent inboard at 30° 
they're a bastard aint they cuz you can only see the double skin bit at the back of the plastic cover. I stuck my key straight thru it 
'Need any welding mate?'
'Nah mate, solid under there'
Yeah, nah I'll leave it
rich28uk
Well-Known Member
When I was looking every one I viewed were getting flakey around arches, my td6 was always ok but had been previously repaired. One I looked at seller said just there, “why you looking under it, good solid car boss, first to see will by” my reply was “not that solid pal, sills and arch corner are full of bog, notice the residue under the sill and sill covers” he went quiet and we walked away.Sounds like you caught it early
'Need any welding mate?'
'Nah mate, solid under there'
Yeah, nah I'll leave it
Eventually bought this one, which was rusty underneath but solid, seller let me hammer it, main reason for rust was lack of use and parked over damp ground, most of it all hammered off and brushed off no bother and since waxoyled and sprayed so should keep it going a good while.
Hopefully this one won’t be too bad to weld up, got slight bubbling on rear bottom of quarter panel where it meets bumper so hopefully that can grind back, rust treat or galv spray it and primer and paint, enough to hold it back a few years.
Like you say some of them are that bad on sills can poke keys through.
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Mine was one of best I'd seen in budget but still has had arches blown over. They didn't do a very good job of killing the rust first though, its coming back thru same place as yours. Big rustproofing job gonna break out before winter I think
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Biggest cause of water in diesel is condensation in the tank, that in turn can lead to bacterial growth and big problems. Best to always keep the tank full especially in winter except on a long trip of course.
I tend to fill up when half full
rich28uk
Well-Known Member
Had yours gone at back of the arch/ quarter where it meets bumper? Looking at mine everything looks original paint wise apart from rear bumper what’s been diy sprayed, looks fine in rain but not as shiny as rest of car when dry, cheap lacquer etc, this I’ll get painted when I’m ready for arches etc. other bits I’ll spray myself like fog surrounds and mirrors, etc. replace chrome door handles with body colour covers, touch in few deep scratches and heavy polish full car, should bring it to a nice level then, knowing me when that’s all done I’ll sell it and buy another and start all over againMine was one of best I'd seen in budget but still has had arches blown over. They didn't do a very good job of killing the rust first though, its coming back thru same place as yours. Big rustproofing job gonna break out before winter I think
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1988smithy
Well-Known Member
My front bumpers like thatHad yours gone at back of the arch/ quarter where it meets bumper? Looking at mine everything looks original paint wise apart from rear bumper what’s been diy sprayed, looks fine in rain but not as shiny as rest of car when dry, cheap lacquer etc, this I’ll get painted when I’m ready for arches etc. other bits I’ll spray myself like fog surrounds and mirrors, etc. replace chrome door handles with body colour covers, touch in few deep scratches and heavy polish full car, should bring it to a nice level then, knowing me when that’s all done I’ll sell it and buy another and start all over again
my audi was the same on all 4 corners, big cars getting scraped ay itYeah exactly there, there's a steel bracket inside the rear bumper that's starting to blow thru as well
ours aint too bad for their age i reckon. Like I said tho, i think mine had started other end of the rear quarter into the sill as well cuz whole quarters been blown over. Sills are solid tho, I did same as you and took trim off the week I had it to check I know what you mean tho, I like a running project. When I'm bored of this one I could see me in a 4.2sc with the mileage I do
rich28uk
Well-Known Member
True that, think every big car iv had all had paint/ scrapes etc on bumpers.My front bumpers like that
Yeah exactly there, there's a steel bracket inside the rear bumper that's starting to blow thru as well
I know what you mean tho, I like a running project. When I'm bored of this one I could see me in a 4.2sc with the mileage I do
That’s older cars though keep rust chasing, once iv sorted this I’m not spending a fortune on it, I’ll weld it myself, get a mate who’s a sprayer to do the paint one weekend, where it meets rear bumper I’m thinking good grinder with flap disc, clean up then very heavy zinc galv spray to hold it back followed by paint, should keep it back for couple of years by that time something else will need painting probably.
Go for a 4.2 if you can, I do big miles but it’s paid for as a subby so not fussed about fuel, averaging about 15mpg locally and 23/25 on a run. Seats seem very comfy (06) so pre facelift seats with the massive headrests, very quiet and quick coming from td6.
My other half goes mad, did loads on my td6, now advertised on here and marketplace, she’s like why do all that to do it all over again.. something to do at weekends.
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Thats not bad mileage! My 3.6 is only about 4 or 5 mpg better and I pay more tax, plus more potential maintenance costs with a diesel....
Something for the weekend sir with a much better engine and box
rich28uk
Well-Known Member
Tax on mine is high rate, nearly £700 a year probably same as yours? That’s why I skipped the 3.6 didn’t fancy the turbo or egr or cracked manifold issues, 4.2 seems a very good engine mines booked in for a new thermostat as it over cools on motorway/ down hill, and not a cheap job but they have a rubber coolant hose running deep in the V below the supercharger, mechanic reckons about 2 days but I’m changing that as preventative maintenance, otherwise can guarantee it will leak with family in car and no AA or RAC will be able to patch it or it could cook the engine so even more expensive then.Thats not bad mileage! My 3.6 is only about 4 or 5 mpg better and I pay more tax, plus more potential maintenance costs with a diesel....
Something for the weekend sir with a much better engine and box
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Yeah same tax then
Funnily enough, 3.6 has got thermostat housing in middle of the V, mines leaking a bit
Datatek
Well-Known Member
That's what I do, helps reduce the condensation problem. If the car is daily driver, condensation is not so much of a problem, it' when they stand unused for periods.
Right sports fans she’s out. Plenty of PG and extension bar and a lump hammer. Once you get it going it’s quite easy, just remember to keep backing the bolts off a bit. Best add 4x new hub bolts as they’re trashed.
I will say I’d not have won this battle without the advice from LZ - hopefully the swivel comes off easy
You can get new 32 mm hub nuts. The 36 mm ones are Britpart and you need a thin-walled impact socket to get inside the hole if you get them by mistake.
doriz
Well-Known Member
Right next question - the wheel nutz have those thin walled covers designed to fit over the locking wheel nut on ever bolt. The tool in the boot pulled the one off the locking nut but nothing would remove the others, other than destroying them…thoughts, are they designed for all the wheel nuts and is there a hack to get them off. Had I had to change a wheel at the roadside, those covers would have defeated me??
badfluffy
Well-Known Member
the chrome covers are part of the wheel nut and don't come off, they do have a habit of swelling so the wheel brace don't fit
Flossie
Well-Known Member
Only the locking nut one removes.
