1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Thats reassuring, thanks
I've read r.e the oil light issue that cheap filters can cause it so I'll report backHow's the 4.4 to drive? The 8 speed box is meant to be really nice..?
I've read r.e the oil light issue that cheap filters can cause it so I'll report backHow's the 4.4 to drive? The 8 speed box is meant to be really nice..?
Generally, it's lovely, very easy and predictable.Thats reassuring, thanks
How's the 4.4 to drive? The 8 speed box is meant to be really nice..?
Sometimes I'll catch it out and it'll slam hard into gear, i don't know if that's me or if it's aTC problem, though there's no bad noises or slipping etc so it's probably just me.
Maybe I'm not used to diesels yet but it can rev out far too quickly in lower gears
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
103500 ish. Could be, it's on my to-do list.
I think it's when the TC is unlocked, ie, slow down until the engine revs are around 1000-1100 then get on the gas.. er.. diesel again and it can feel like someone's driven in the back of you.. like it's selected neutral, you've asked for power and it suddenly slams into a gear.. if you drive slower.. give it a second to sort itself out, it doesn't happen
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
A service and adaption reset should cure that issue.
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
On the 6hp you should also do the bridge and dowel seals, ZF lifegard 6 only and the fill procedure has to be followed to the letter.Plan on doing mine
Because it also does exactly this
The slamming in to gear issue or "lurch" as it is known amongst ZF circles and is usually cured with an adaption reset.
Cheers.. it's just moved up the list.. but tomorrow is 2A day
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
sounds fun.
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
V helpful, thanks!
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Fully agree, genuine filters only 20 quid
P.o carried out service before sale so probably aftermarket filters
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
Yep that is correct
nevillen
Well-Known Member
So you use an extractor as well? The only reason I originally purchased one was because ours has 'additional' armour plating under the sump, it was an export model to Australia and the person who ordered it from new added it as an extra...I know as it is on the original build sheet. Point is it is attached with a lot of bolts and I have a very very bad back which required radiology treatment meaning laying underneath the motor was not an option. But given the choice I would now use the extractor instead of the sump plug, it is so much easier and cleaner.
Do you have a link? I usually get an armful of dirty oil & a puddle on the garage floor when I change the oil on my P38.
nevillen
Well-Known Member
Here you go:
flintronic 12V/80W Oil Change Pump Extractor with Tubes, Oil/Diesel Fluid Extractor Pump, Oil Suction Pump, Changing Engine Oil Transfer Pump for Truck Rv Boat ATV Auto Car Motorbike
Currently £20 once you use one of these you will wonder why you haven't used one before! There will be some who say that you don't properly empty the sump without removing the drai plug, they are wrong! You actually clear out more crud with an extractor than by using the drain plug...it is why garages use them instead.
I've got that one. As said can be a bit slow at times but does the job no problem.
You're having the steak? Hmmmm.
Sorry I couldn't make it but I was working yesterday.
