I assumed it was the same.. a battery labelled calcium is still a lead acid battery
Eddie. It says sealed calcium in the detailed specs
Eddie. It says sealed calcium in the detailed specs
was it the 020 you fitted?
Yuasa YBX5020 Silver High Performance Car Battery: Type 020
Yuasa YBX5 car batteries are high performance lead acid batteries. They have strong cranking power & offer a 5 year warranty.www.bmstechnologies.co.uk
its a shame the 1000CCA mf32 doesnt fit
I fitted the S5 A15 Bosch.
The MF does fit but you have to fix it down with something. Also the posts are further inboard of the battery which gives issues.
J
Bosch S5A15 AGM Starter Battery: Type 020
The Bosch S5A15 battery with AGM technology provides enough power for frequent starts and stops. Backed by a 5 year car battery warranty.
www.bmstechnologies.co.uk
thats AGM, can you set that option in the battery reset sequence? in my BMW you had to specify capacity and agm/sealed as part of the reset (which turned off stop start if you chose sealed)
Yes.this one?Bosch S5A15 AGM Starter Battery: Type 020
The Bosch S5A15 battery with AGM technology provides enough power for frequent starts and stops. Backed by a 5 year car battery warranty.
thats AGM, can you set that option in the battery reset sequence? in my BMW you had to specify capacity and agm/sealed as part of the reset (which turned off stop start if you chose sealed)
It was an AGM with a Jag/LR sticker that came out.
We dont have start stop so no issue.
J
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i'll disconnect the battery and put my load tester on it tonight, see what that says.
after the low battery symptoms, i kept an eye on the charging voltage, which, while driving, flicked between 13.6 and 12.9, which doesnt seem right as it must have needed a decent charge at that point
after the low battery symptoms, i kept an eye on the charging voltage, which, while driving, flicked between 13.6 and 12.9, which doesnt seem right as it must have needed a decent charge at that point
Crank sensor? Or cam, possibly. Vague memory one gives a fault and the other doesn't. Think there was a discussion on it once.
Does the fuel pump tin when the ignition is turned on?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
That charge voltage is certainly not right. 12.9 is not charging, 13.6 is barely charging
Have you load tested it a 2000rpm with all the electric accessories on full tilt?
I put heated screens and lights on while i was driving, didn't seem to make much difference
Tried again.. heated seats front and rear, heated screens, headlights and heater blower on max, 13.2 at 2000 rpm
Left ignition and lights on for a couple of mins, engine off, then started up and my amp clamp said around +77A on the red battery wire so the alternator is definitely doing something
I've no clue how old the battery is or if the ecu was reset when the battery was changed.. i know it changes the charging profile but don't really know how our what to look for
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I don't know enough about AGM batteries but the charging requirements are certainly different to a standard battery. Maybe what you have is a setting for AGM?
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Changed a split intercooler hose
Cleaned map sensors
Sorted scabby battery tray
And while we're on the subject, hoofed a bigger battery in the hole
Only had it 2 days!
Cleaned map sensors
Sorted scabby battery tray
And while we're on the subject, hoofed a bigger battery in the hole
Only had it 2 days!
I don't know much either except they are used on start stop cars because they are more durable, battery chargers have a have different modes for sealed and agm
The sealed setting goes up to 14.4v, the agm setting up to 14.7
That said, considering sealed batteries should be charged at 14.7, should you be using the agm setting on sealed batteries?
Scotiawhiskers
Well-Known Member
Well, you'd never expect it of a P38 would you?
Been busy with other stuff all day, finally got to looking at Otto this evening. Popped the bonnet, took off 2 and 4, put in spare plugs and earthed them on the plenum.
unlocked again, ign 2, everything whirs and pumps as far as I can tell, another click and he bursts willingly into life with good strong sparks blazing off the spare plugs.
Shut him down, reconnect to the proper plugs, start him again, Nanocom on, no error codes or anomalous readings.
So in case it is a pump / relay / sensor beginning to fail, tomorrow or Wednesday will be a 2 car trip to the new place and we'll leave him there til we can check everything properly.
Been busy with other stuff all day, finally got to looking at Otto this evening. Popped the bonnet, took off 2 and 4, put in spare plugs and earthed them on the plenum.
unlocked again, ign 2, everything whirs and pumps as far as I can tell, another click and he bursts willingly into life with good strong sparks blazing off the spare plugs.
Shut him down, reconnect to the proper plugs, start him again, Nanocom on, no error codes or anomalous readings.
So in case it is a pump / relay / sensor beginning to fail, tomorrow or Wednesday will be a 2 car trip to the new place and we'll leave him there til we can check everything properly.
Been thinking, maybe it never had a battery reset when a new one was put on and as a result it's under charging because it thinks it's an old battery that can't take it? What's the worst that can happen if i do a reset now? I feel I've not much to lose. I'll make sure the battery is fully charged as well
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How old is the new battery kerms?
I don't know. A new one was allegedly put on in December, but i can't prove it
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Is there no date code on the top of the battery?
