RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
gold rover
Well-Known Member
Well she's got me paranoid again. Was heading North and the turbo whine just seemed louder than usual. As she hits about 1800 revs it gets very loud. Drops again aroud 1500. So phoned the guys at Gibsons, who being great as usual said drop in ( not during tea break 
) and we'll have a listen.
He also mentioned how does she sound if revved. Couldn't do it whilst chatting , so did it later on. Now I'm really paranoid.
When I rev her the whine seems fine but there is a sound as the revs drop back down , that sounds 'dry'. Almost as if someone has a dry throat rasp. So , in the midst of arranging to move house and now I have to try to get to Cumnock! Aaarrrggggghhhhh. Rain and pours come to mind
) and we'll have a listen.He also mentioned how does she sound if revved. Couldn't do it whilst chatting , so did it later on. Now I'm really paranoid.
When I rev her the whine seems fine but there is a sound as the revs drop back down , that sounds 'dry'. Almost as if someone has a dry throat rasp. So , in the midst of arranging to move house and now I have to try to get to Cumnock! Aaarrrggggghhhhh. Rain and pours come to mind
Checked my squealing aircon. The arm that holds the tensioner pulley is siezed solid in the housing and no amount of hammering or levering would budge it. Time to think of a plan B.
Bagshot
Well-Known Member
Well today got stuck into the brake rebuild, first off we started with..
F###### solid, I think is the phrase.
Got the things apart.. eventually.. Pads obviously shot, discs are so cheap why not. But, the back plates/ covers fell apart. Not going to bother with new ones, reading here opinions seem to err on not fitting, so until finances are better they can wait.
Calipers and sliders came up quite well with some attention from the grinder and wire wheel..
Even the slider pins and pin covers came up ok. New seals all round and new bolts all ready to go on. Might even invest in a bit of silver caliper spray for a finish.
All old pipes are out, solid and Flexi, from the midway point along the body anyway, good job as all the steel pipes were pitted the whole way along. Mr MOT would no doubt pick one up and back to the start, so this far now.
But Big result..! My pipes DONT go over the top of the fuel tank. Only down the driver's side, tucked up along the inside face of the chassis. Which means I can get nearly all replaced. However..what genius put the one across the rear chassis from left to right over everything.. Obviously someone who didn't have to replace it later on. So many bends and turns and one part that just disappears above the NS airbag, unless you've got 18" fingers that clip is never going back on.
I can see how these are put in before the body is dropped on and how garages want to charge unsuspecting punters hundreds for this. How do you propose to do this in one piece..?
That's the old one out, cut into three just to get it out. From the NS wheel arch all the way cut just rear of the OS air tank. (Think there maybe just as many joiners going back in that one.)
New flexis on order, everything cleaned up and now at least a more manageable place to work.
And tomorrow start making up brake pipes, my favourite job... Honest (Not)
Can't wait for the fronts..
F###### solid, I think is the phrase.
Got the things apart.. eventually.. Pads obviously shot, discs are so cheap why not. But, the back plates/ covers fell apart. Not going to bother with new ones, reading here opinions seem to err on not fitting, so until finances are better they can wait.
Calipers and sliders came up quite well with some attention from the grinder and wire wheel..
Even the slider pins and pin covers came up ok. New seals all round and new bolts all ready to go on. Might even invest in a bit of silver caliper spray for a finish.
All old pipes are out, solid and Flexi, from the midway point along the body anyway, good job as all the steel pipes were pitted the whole way along. Mr MOT would no doubt pick one up and back to the start, so this far now.
But Big result..! My pipes DONT go over the top of the fuel tank. Only down the driver's side, tucked up along the inside face of the chassis. Which means I can get nearly all replaced. However..what genius put the one across the rear chassis from left to right over everything.. Obviously someone who didn't have to replace it later on. So many bends and turns and one part that just disappears above the NS airbag, unless you've got 18" fingers that clip is never going back on.
I can see how these are put in before the body is dropped on and how garages want to charge unsuspecting punters hundreds for this. How do you propose to do this in one piece..?
That's the old one out, cut into three just to get it out. From the NS wheel arch all the way cut just rear of the OS air tank. (Think there maybe just as many joiners going back in that one.
)New flexis on order, everything cleaned up and now at least a more manageable place to work.
And tomorrow start making up brake pipes, my favourite job... Honest
(Not)Can't wait for the fronts..
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Removed the borrowed MAF sensor and installed my new one. Different to OEM, it's a copper plate rather than a filament wire. Much better now.
Hot start kit stopped working so had some investigation to do. Tightened all the connectors and refitted the hot start kit correctly after I noticed that at some point a garage had fitted it backwards. Tidied up the wiring too.
Might fit the steps that I've had loafing for 3 years this week
Hot start kit stopped working so had some investigation to do. Tightened all the connectors and refitted the hot start kit correctly after I noticed that at some point a garage had fitted it backwards. Tidied up the wiring too.
Might fit the steps that I've had loafing for 3 years this week
ukadamwest
Well-Known Member
Started on the front cover on the P38.
after 2 weeks sitting it started on the button again, ran smooth and clean. noticed an oil patch coming from the back of the sump area, its never dropped oil before. i'll investigate once the sump is off.
after 2 weeks sitting it started on the button again, ran smooth and clean. noticed an oil patch coming from the back of the sump area, its never dropped oil before. i'll investigate once the sump is off.
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
ukadamwest
Well-Known Member
I suppose I should.Are you doin' a 'fred documentiny ya work?
light is a bit poo for taking pictures though
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Not so RR-ish but relevant. I've been feeling bad about how little I payed my mate for my P38. So I'm giving my E36 BMW to him to weigh in. I have no wish to get it roadworthy now I have a Rangie. Low hard fast cars is not something I will put up with anymore. It goes like stink but has been parked there for ten years
But J why are mentioning this heracy on a RR forum...?
Because if you ever see one of these in a garden or scrap yard there is one thing you may want from this petrol car -
Access is plentiful, pulleys are also same. Just have to work out why my RR's one doesn't want to come off?
This Sachs viscous is 1990 but in much better condition despite it's appearance. Same one as M51
But J why are mentioning this heracy on a RR forum...?
Because if you ever see one of these in a garden or scrap yard there is one thing you may want from this petrol car -
Access is plentiful, pulleys are also same. Just have to work out why my RR's one doesn't want to come off?
This Sachs viscous is 1990 but in much better condition despite it's appearance. Same one as M51
Datatek
Well-Known Member
M51 fan has a left hand thread, is that one left handed?Not so RR-ish but relevant. I've been feeling bad about how little I payed my mate for my P38. So I'm giving my E36 BMW to him to weigh in. I have no wish to get it roadworthy now I have a Rangie. Low hard fast cars is not something I will put up with anymore. It goes like stink but has been parked there for ten years
But J why are mentioning this heracy on a RR forum...?
Because if you ever see one of these in a garden or scrap yard there is one thing you may want from this petrol car -
View attachment 174170
View attachment 174171
Access is plentiful, pulleys are also same. Just have to work out why my RR's one doesn't want to come off?
View attachment 174172
This Sachs viscous is 1990 but in much better condition despite it's appearance. Same one as M51
norseman
Well-Known Member
I've actually got something to report
Went on it's annual pilgrimage for the corrosion-preventative treatment check/top up yesterday, 230mile round trip but the weather was nice, even got to wear my 'shades.
Very cold first thing though, that's when I discovered that the fresh-air flap wasn't opening resulting in very little warm air coming in … have to check that out, probably a vacuum supply problem to the switch. Why couldn't LR left things as (they) were pre '86 when all you did was slide a lever
Went on it's annual pilgrimage for the corrosion-preventative treatment check/top up yesterday, 230mile round trip but the weather was nice, even got to wear my 'shades.
Very cold first thing though, that's when I discovered that the fresh-air flap wasn't opening resulting in very little warm air coming in … have to check that out, probably a vacuum supply problem to the switch. Why couldn't LR left things as (they) were pre '86 when all you did was slide a lever
Changed the clutch master and slave cylinder. The slave cylinder has a spring inside and mine had snapped. It occurs to me that if the spring in the slave cylinder snaps (like mine) it might mean the clutch is constantly "riding" and burn out faster. Seeing as the master looked original and black crap came out when bleeding the system I figured the seals might be on their way out and best replace that too. Bleeding revealed the main difference between the £50 (OEM) and £200 (LR) parts: when bleeding more fluid came out the bleed nipple hole (and down my arm) than out the bl**dy nipple itself. More than a tiny crack of a turn and it ****ed everywhere. Not impressed.
Got two new front shocks on their way!! These replace the two that replaced the first pair on the front!!! No connection but I cannot fault jgs4x4 and James for all their help.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Yes LH thread seems identical. Both rangîe and E36 iv put 10mm spanner jammed on pulley and they came off easy. When I tried to swap them the pulley bolts undid instead on RR, must of put it on too tight before Xmas.
Been to almunecar and got lost because I was too busy starring at the abs and tc lights on permanently. Then I put plasters on my thumbs having blistered them on my moby posting here. Just for show I cleaned the ratbag with the best wash and wax on the planet from alcampo in motril. Had my foot put in plaster after fracturing it booting hell out of the tyres. Now on here going through every sticky known to man. THAT'S what i'm doing if you really want to know. Goodbye forever.
Deep breath. Now, go down the pub for the day. After that things will look brighter. Brighter and more painful to start but certainly brighter.
After a near miss with a myopic old tw*t that pulled straight out on me onto a 60mph main road I started to get brake squeak. So I swapped all brake pads and fought hard to remove recalcitrant guide pins, then swapped out front guide pins and cleaned up the rear ones, all slippery now. Good job I did. Some pins were stuck. Will need rubber boots for the pistons soon though these are about to die.
