Grrrrrr said:
Not surprised. They looked totally f*cked when I was under there and were dropping bits of rust all over my garage floor.

How about the Terra-Firma rock/tree sliders instead?
Click to expand...
I have been eyeing these up for after this summers freshen up underneath (hopefully)
backinblack said:
Gonna stick my diagnostics on and see if the ECU knows the lights are on.
Click to expand...
Think they have to as lights are wired directly into ECU? Any problem lights won't come on and dash will tell you.
 
I am not looking forward to laying down on my side for sure, I think I will be resting a lot and doing them a bit at a time, I have to try at least
 
Grrrrrr said:
Something like this with off-road wheels?!
Click to expand...
I keep an old sheet in shed, or waterproof tarp in boot if going deep in mud. You never get stuck on flat solid ground, makes world of difference especially when it takes longer than expected, ... As expected, under there.

Us 95'ers got it hard with no TC :(
 
RangeRoller dt said:
I keep an old sheet in shed, or waterproof tarp in boot if going deep in mud. You never get stuck on flat solid ground, makes world of difference especially when it takes longer than expected, ... As expected, under there.

Us 95'ers got it hard with no TC :(
Click to expand...

Fitted TC to mine. You just swap over the brake modulator and ABS ECU - plug 'n play. Only handles 2W TC though. Ideally I'd have air-lockers on it and 4 pin diffs and probably peg the diff too. Just need that win ...
 
Grrrrrr said:
Fitted TC to mine. You just swap over the brake modulator and ABS ECU - plug 'n play. Only handles 2W TC though. Ideally I'd have air-lockers on it and 4 pin diffs and probably peg the diff too. Just need that win ...
Click to expand...
TC is no substitute for a diff lock or even an LSD as it effectively stops the spinning wheel(s) turning which may not help forward movement. It also only works for a short period to stop the brakes overheating.
My P38 with 4 wheel TC will not climb the slope from the garage on frozen grass, indeed it tries to slide down the slope to the river. My previous 4 x 4 with a rear LSD and locked centre diff did it with ease.
 
Got in it after a long layup (3 months) wet through inside and unfortunately gone a bit mouldy.
On the plus side, the passenger window button has started working again and she started first turn of the key (albeit a bit slow turning over)
She'll be spending a week or two inside to dry out then the list of jobs will be attacked before she goes back to Czech.
1. Brakes crap despite new discs and pads all round last year.
2.headlining
3. Rear bumper held on with wire to be fixed
4. Oil leak Only slight but needs sorting as drips on exhaust.
5. Coolant leak from throttle body
6. New windscreen
7. Grumbling transmission (no idea what but new props and gearbox service first.
8. Re-gass aircon
9. Fix hevac display
10. Fix seat heaters.
11. Fit lpg
12. Full service including diff oil.
13. Sort out sounds (aftermarket crappy head unit gets almost no channels and is either silent or deafening)
14. General tidy up.
15. *edit. New fuel tank bracket

I think I'm gonna be busy for a while but she's been far too good to me to get rid of.
Since I bought her, she's driven back and forth to Czech about 10 times and never let me down. She deserves a bit of tlc now.
 
Last edited:
Oh I'm also after a spare set of wheels for it. Compulsory winters in Czech which it has but I'd like a set with summers on for summer.
If anyone has a set going cheap, let me know!
 
Grrrrrr said:
Fitted TC to mine. You just swap over the brake modulator and ABS ECU - plug 'n play. Only handles 2W TC though. Ideally I'd have air-lockers on it and 4 pin diffs and probably peg the diff too. Just need that win ...
Click to expand...
Clever man, 1st I've heard of TC mod. 2W front or rear?
4.6 REAR short nose 4pin is plug and play, front you'd have to change the pin itself as gear is reverse cut. Military grade pins would be immense, immensely expensive though.
Wouldn't bother with pegs, I thought I'd get 4pin after I pop the 2pin in mine, still in one piece despite it's abuse :rolleyes:
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Clever man, 1st I've heard of TC mod. 2W front or rear?
4.6 REAR short nose 4pin is plug and play, front you'd have to change the pin itself as gear is reverse cut. Military grade pins would be immense, immensely expensive though.
Wouldn't bother with pegs, I thought I'd get 4pin after I pop the 2pin in mine, still in one piece despite it's abuse :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Only works on the rear. There's a thread somewhere with the different part numbers.

Range Rover parts are stronger than the ones on the Defender.

@Datatek : yes, you're right. The braking can be a issue sometimes but in general it is better than none at all. The TC and viscous is a bit counter intuitive as it needs beans to lock up and keep moving whereas with diff-locks I usually use low revs so as not to stress the drive-train. LSD would be good too but another expensive mod for not a lot of use. I've only had to be towed out twice and use the winch once in anger to date so she does pretty well.
 
I just got my rocker cover screw... I almost lost it in the c*ap
SAM_1696.JPG
SAM_1697.JPG
 

Attachments

  • SAM_1695.JPG
    SAM_1695.JPG
    238.1 KB · Views: 124
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
Range Rover L322 - not turning over
Replies
12
Views
2K
gold rover
gold rover
B
L320 range rover sport 3.0 tdv6 loosing power steering fluid
Replies
3
Views
535
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
F
1980 Range Rover 2 door v8 to 300tdi
2
Replies
20
Views
1K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
T
Non start
Replies
3
Views
717
Datatek
Datatek
T
Fan Clutch??
Replies
14
Views
799
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr