Well just had it all apart and it all became clear. The (partially rusty) superlock motor decided to expire in the locked position but the regular one was still trying to operate. It would get so far until the superlock fulcrum got in the way of the quadrant.
Took drive off bottom of superlock motor and removed its fulcrum. All back together now ready for tomorrows installation in the door, fingers crossed. Range Rover Breakers sending me a new striker plate in the post.
Thanks, Alan for your advice.
 
Thanks for your post. When unlocking with the remote the whole car unlocks and on the drivers door the lock motor moves and the sill button moves up but the door remains firmly latched and the car immediately locks up again It won't unlock with the key in the door. I tried pulling the exterior handle at the precise moment the sill button comes up but no joy. In the split second the rest of the car is unlocked I opened the offside rear door and gained access no problem.
So I took that door off and got busy with a hacksaw blade. I'm going to take your advice and strip the lock down and remove the superlock motor and see if I can get the device to reliably work again. New ones are £180 or so.
Cheers, Tim.

MGF locks are cheaper and if you get the same year and it looks the same the motors inside are interchangeable. Or ask @martyuk. He gets new lock motors from somewhere. Or ask MartyUK for a refurbed lock where he's done the microswitches and everything!
 
Nice tyres!

Passed the MOT. ;)

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Put on ramps ready to change gearbox for 2nd time. First time she's moved since February :( There's going to be quite a bit to fix I suspect, but missed the old girl so time to fix... Manifolds, headlining, EAS valve block, sunroof... :)
 
Did some post Christmas trips (supposed to take the Merc, but that piece of **** has thrown an ABC fault again), she is a reliable old bus, although the heaters have broken on me, the options are stuck on full heat or turn off the blowers but still get full heat being pushed around the cabin. Freezing outside and I had to have the window open to let the heat out.

Guess it is time for me to pull the dash and do all of the jobs I have been putting off doing behind there.

Still though, 200 mile round trip, used 1/3 of the tank (proper light footed cruising) and I felt totally relaxed. If not a little bit sweaty. When they finally ban derv I'll be knackered, I love my ol' bus too much.
 
Fitted my new grill..fixed the trim on the rear quarter, new bulbs in the dash, repaired the boot rubber, re-grew my seat sponges and treated the leather,fixed a loose window aluminium trim and was rather chuffed.
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Well just had it all apart and it all became clear. The (partially rusty) superlock motor decided to expire in the locked position but the regular one was still trying to operate. It would get so far until the superlock fulcrum got in the way of the quadrant.
Took drive off bottom of superlock motor and removed its fulcrum. All back together now ready for tomorrows installation in the door, fingers crossed. Range Rover Breakers sending me a new striker plate in the post.
Thanks, Alan for your advice.

That lever in there that's been removed is actually what PREVENTS the latch from superlocking. In normal operation, the hook on that lever acts as a stop for when the locking lever moves to the lock position. With this removed, it is now possible for the lock to go all the way from unlocked, to superlocked - as there is nothing to stop it at the normally 'locked' position. Normally, again when it goes to superlock, the superlock motor engages and moves that lever out of the way at the same time as the CDL motor operates a second time to move the locking lever across to the superlock position.

If it was unlocking and locking straight away, then either it's been jamming, or the microswitch is going faulty. On latches I refurbish I leave the superlocking pawl in place, and then just disconnect the wiring to the superlock motor and then generally hot glue the shaft in place to stop it from moving the pawl at all.

Marty
 
Not today,but NY eve, was coming over the bridge (50mph limit) was overtaken by a tw@t in a Clio doing around 70mph towards the lights at the end of the bridge.

As he braked hard, I started catching up just as the lights changed. By now I was around 50 metres behind him.

He went round the roundabout and off down the dual carriageway as I was negotiating the roundabout. I had already selected SPORT so as I veered round to the left, I put my foot to the floor and George did a few wheelspins on the wet tarmac before leaping away like a scalded whale :D

I not only caught the smug ittle sh!t, I blew past him, leaving him in a cloud of spray and a deep rumble from the exhausts like Jabba the Hut belching :rolleyes:

Childish? Perhaps,but the smile on my face was there for ages after :D:p

Nothing beats a Clio like a bellowing P38 :cool:
 
Refurbed my eas block I bought a 2nd hand one cheap off the bay a while back just to have a look see iv had a kit sitting here for months, after playing with the 2nd hand one I was happy to remove mine and strip it down replacing all the O rings.

I had a good read of http://paulp38a.com/range-rover-p38/eas-valve-block-renew/ a few times just to be sure the only thing I did different was not removing the air pressure switch or driver pack.

All back together, tested and working I didn't have any problems as such but this job hasn't been done in my ownership of the car so was over due. I do think its raising and specially lowering quicker and smoother.

Did find a rusty solinoid tho, time to check the dryer ?
2017-01-02 14.06.32.jpg

The old O rings
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Another job done
 
Changed the alternator belt and a/c belt while I was at it, gave the EGR a good clean and just had time to change the leaky spill pipe from injector 1 to the pump. Thanks @wammers for the advice.
 
Well Marty, you're right - because I carefully put it all back together and everything worked a treat. Adjusted the new striker plate for a good alignment, replaced the door card, opened and closed the door on numerous occasions and locked and unlocked it ditto with both the key and the remote. Just getting to the point of having congratulatory cuppa, shut door and chunk - the car locked itself all round and the drivers door had gone into superlock which it would apparently, but it hadn't up to that point and anyway shutting the door shouldn't have caused the motor to operate.
So have ordered another striker and a new, yes thats right, actuator assembly.
I can't be faffed with something this critical and the old one looked original and had got a good layer of rust on one of the motors. If it was a glove box catch or something it would be different but this intermittent fault just brings a world of pain.
I'm quite sure there's lots of members on here who have successfully refreshed their locks but I have lost confidence in the whole thing - expect those pesky microswitches will be pretty tired as well.
The annoying thing is that when I got the door to behave I was going to liberate the BECM and give its pins a good going over and also check for dampness around the connector plugs and harnesses.
Anyway thanks for your help and of course now I think about it, taking out that lever probably wasn't wise.
 
Finally started to put the bitch back together becm and ecu plus ignition changed still got rad and belts to do and poss change the injection pump
 
Well Marty, you're right - because I carefully put it all back together and everything worked a treat. Adjusted the new striker plate for a good alignment, replaced the door card, opened and closed the door on numerous occasions and locked and unlocked it ditto with both the key and the remote. Just getting to the point of having congratulatory cuppa, shut door and chunk - the car locked itself all round and the drivers door had gone into superlock which it would apparently, but it hadn't up to that point and anyway shutting the door shouldn't have caused the motor to operate.
So have ordered another striker and a new, yes thats right, actuator assembly.
I can't be faffed with something this critical and the old one looked original and had got a good layer of rust on one of the motors. If it was a glove box catch or something it would be different but this intermittent fault just brings a world of pain.
I'm quite sure there's lots of members on here who have successfully refreshed their locks but I have lost confidence in the whole thing - expect those pesky microswitches will be pretty tired as well.
The annoying thing is that when I got the door to behave I was going to liberate the BECM and give its pins a good going over and also check for dampness around the connector plugs and harnesses.
Anyway thanks for your help and of course now I think about it, taking out that lever probably wasn't wise.

I would usually offer to sell you a fully refurbished latch, as I strip, clean, and rebuild them (with new microswitches!) but at the moment I am completely out of them.. I need to find a source for new motors as I've run out of working ones, so my latch rebuilding has ground somewhat to a halt!

The new latch should sort you out though - and it'll be good for another 15 years :) Hope it sorts it out once and for all though!
If you don't want the old, faulty latch once the new one is installed, then I'm happy to pay postage to take it off your hands.... it can go in my pile of other broken ones waiting to be rebuilt!

Cheers,
Marty
 
Fitted the new one today - never used Island before but they were the cheapest and free nextday delivery as well. Impressed.
All's good now and yes I have a used latch which I'm more than happy to ship to you and don't worry about postage - it's a fair trade for your advice.
Just pm me your details, cheers Tim.
 
All's good now and yes I have a used latch which I'm more than happy to ship to you and don't worry about postage - it's a fair trade for your advice.
Just pm me your details, cheers Tim.

I love this joint......
Fair play Fergz n Marty........ Gentlemen of the highest order.
 
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Fitted the new one today - never used Island before but they were the cheapest and free nextday delivery as well. Impressed.
All's good now and yes I have a used latch which I'm more than happy to ship to you and don't worry about postage - it's a fair trade for your advice.
Just pm me your details, cheers Tim.

Cheers Tim,

Very kind of you!
I'll drop you a message with my details now, before I forget!

Kind Regards,
Marty

**edit - Tim, it won't let me PM you, so might have to contact me first so I can reply?
 
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