Right then buddy, sounds like you may have a similar issue to what i had then. I would ADVISE you DONT start or drive it anymore as this could do more damage. Get an expert on it like i did. Sadly mine was terminal as it dropped number 6 valve and was hit by the piston which destroyed under the rocker cover area on valve 6. What a hellish time i had but in the end i have come through it and learnt a good lesson from it. Mine is off back to the dealer who sold it me as he has fully refunded me all my monies plus compo on top. Sad end to a great looking Westminster TD but not my worry now thank god.
 
Nope, engine is standard as far as I know. 160k on it. May be chain stretch.
Most likely a possibilty then buddy and it has knocked the timing off hence the rough running symptom which i had although i did know mine had been re-mapped 3 years ago by Turner Performance via the last owner which could have led to its demise. Mine only had 106k miles on the clock with a full main agent stamped history. Best get yours checked for timimg firsts then have a compression test done BEFORE you do anything else. I just started throwing money at mine which was a mistake starting with new injectors etc but again ive learnt from it and now i have a local Rangie expert garage i know for future ref: to leave it to them when nit comes to diagnosis as they have the correct tools which i dont. I hope from my own recent experience you get yours fixed otherwise its re-think time buddy.
 
Nope, engine is standard as far as I know. 160k on it. May be chain stretch.
Check your CAM timing,easy job if you've got the locking pin for the flywheel and locking tool for the cam.;) worry about the FIP timing when you replace the chains,sprockets and guides.if the chain has jumped a tooth you could re- time the cam remove the heater plugs and compression test the engine. Bit of grasping at straws but you never know your luck.if the compressions are good replace the chains etc immediately and count yourself lucky.
 
Check your CAM timing,easy job if you've got the locking pin for the flywheel and locking tool for the cam.;) worry about the FIP timing when you replace the chains,sprockets and guides.if the chain has jumped a tooth you could re- time the cam remove the heater plugs and compression test the engine. Bit of grasping at straws but you never know your luck.if the compressions are good replace the chains etc immediately and count yourself lucky.
I'm assuming this will do the trick:
https://www.ffx.co.uk/product/Get/S...it--Bmw-Land-Rover-Vauxhall-Opel--Chain-Drive
 
Topped up gearbox after oil change waiting for delivery of more dex111 as drained out 5 lts and so far put back 7 and half but that is with engine running and going up and down through the box so can’t c it taking much more
 
Now it's stopped raining I had a look at my heated drivers door mirror that wasn't heating. Took the glass off and put 12v on it lovely and warm. A few millivolts on the spade connectors so door card off and checked everything and still just a few millivolts, gave up put it all back together and it's f@@king working again.

Next job iffy rain sensor and diags said it was faulty and that's fixed itself as well :confused::D
 
Popcorn and couch! :p
I brought the seats. You bring the popcorn? :D
s-l640.jpg
 

Similar threads