that makes more sense, one pipe to the distributor, one pipe between the 2 carburettors
there shouldnt be any exhaust gases getting to the carbs, only a pipe from the rocker cover to capture and burn evaporated oil fumes.
have you adjusted the carbs so the revs dont drop when you lift the pistons?
have you checked the ignition timing is correct?

Carb calibration and ignition timing are next. I just hoped to have a tad more time before tackling that...
 
Two theories so far: It drips down the engine on the exhaust. Proof: The oil is burned after the car stood for a while.

Or: It somehow gets into the exhaust and is then burned in the exhaust. Proof: Oily black slime in the exhaust.

Not sure which one it is...
 
Two theories so far: It drips down the engine on the exhaust. Proof: The oil is burned after the car stood for a while.

Or: It somehow gets into the exhaust and is then burned in the exhaust. Proof: Oily black slime in the exhaust.

Not sure which one it is...
The oil from the carbs gets into the manifold and eventually burnt, is not enough to make any noticeable smoke
 
Ah, thanks! Already wondered where it was going. The black slimey crap in the exhaust is then due to a fat mixture I guess?
 
This is probably no help at all, but, I see in your pictures that the dip-stick is touching one of the HT leads. I don't think that is a good idea at all.
 
Anyway, took Buttercup for her test (CT) this morning, only to be told she can't be tested as the brake testing rollers are not suitable for the auto difflock thingy - can't remember what its called just now.
Booked in for Monday morning now, I will remove the front prop for the day, the tester is OK with that. What else is going to go wrong? apart from the rear wiper now refusing to work again. :mad::mad::mad::mad:
 
I've just taken a 2007 Halford battery of a 1999 Toyota corolla. It did 13yrs.. Today's battery's are a joke.. And a great money spinner. .
Is your alternator chucking out enough power?
That's what I'm not sure about. The volts fluctuate and i can't measure amps.
I'm planning on a new battery before winter, but maybe i need a new regulator too.
Sometimes i get around 14.5, other times it's low 13s. For some time I've wondered if it's normal operation, but yesterday i went out for a drive, then pulled up, turned the engine off and left the head lights on for a couple of mins. When i started again, i expected over 14v but was only getting 13.6
 
That's what I'm not sure about. The volts fluctuate and i can't measure amps.
I'm planning on a new battery before winter, but maybe i need a new regulator too.
Sometimes i get around 14.5, other times it's low 13s. For some time I've wondered if it's normal operation, but yesterday i went out for a drive, then pulled up, turned the engine off and left the head lights on for a couple of mins. When i started again, i expected over 14v but was only getting 13.6
What do you get at 2000rpm with everything turned on, high beams, heaters, demisters, aircon and heaters on full. You should get above 13v to show a good output.
 
Fitted a Recon Pump from Mercia Air limited..

A proper recon OEM pump and she rises and lowers as she should...

A good and proper hoon through wales was needed, scared myself a few times on the straights the 2 ton brick can move when you want it to.. :D

Only "slight" issue i have is No leaks, however the pump is running a bit too much for my liking, it sits at around 68c after a good drive...

Maybe i'm paranoid..

Thats prolly what the "P" stands for?

Paranoia38A ;)
 
What do you get at 2000rpm with everything turned on, high beams, heaters, demisters, aircon and heaters on full. You should get above 13v to show a good output.

I'll try that tomorrow, it's on charge now, should be good by the morning.
Don't want to get a new battery until I'm sure the alternator is good.
Apparently one other test i can do is to put my multi meter across the battery and set to the lowest a/c setting. If it's anything other than 0.000 then the rectifier is screwed
 
I'll try that tomorrow, it's on charge now, should be good by the morning.
Don't want to get a new battery until I'm sure the alternator is good.
Apparently one other test i can do is to put my multi meter across the battery and set to the lowest a/c setting. If it's anything other than 0.000 then the rectifier is screwed
Thats a new one, I'll try that myself tomorrow! Are the earth's and battery connections good also?
 

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