Vehicle was standing a fair few years only had new fuel filter. pump never worked 8 years I’ve known it.
There were few small floaty bits when I pulled the pump out, quite a bit of gunk inside where I took bottom off the pump
 
Fixed the sub a few weeks ago, went to turn the radio on and that's decided to kill itself. A whistle from all speakers that doesn't change with volume, if you turn it up enough you can hear the radio underneath :(
 
doriz said:
Why are p38s holding such strong money?
Click to expand...
Didn't know they had hands.. :eek:

The last true successor to the RRC :D

Not too complicated, still looks quite classy without being in ya face, and has the most attractive and airy interior :cool:

They don't disintegrate when water touches them 'em..

They're very nice to drive in Both petrol and Diesel power, and they make great towcars..

The best looking of the RR iterations too IMO
 
They been going up in price slowly (to our detriment). Harder to find decent one cheap compared to few years ago. Lot of £700 4.0Gems about lately
L322 is getting more affordable now but you need to add £2G to the price fix em and get diagnostics.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
They been going up in price slowly (to our detriment). Harder to find decent one cheap compared to few years ago. Lot of £700 4.0Gems about lately
L322 is getting more affordable now but you need to add £2G to the price fix em and get diagnostics.
Click to expand...
I dislike the vast acreage of flat sheet metal used on the newer ones, hideous
 
RangeRoller dt said:
They been going up in price slowly (to our detriment). Harder to find decent one cheap compared to few years ago. Lot of £700 4.0Gems about lately
L322 is getting more affordable now but you need to add £2G to the price fix em and get diagnostics.
Click to expand...
The L322 can be found for as little as Euro1,500, cheaper than a P38.
 
kermit_rr said:
I dislike the vast acreage of sh*te used on the newer ones, hideous
Click to expand...
Hmmm... this is maybe a little more precise.....
thinking-face_1f914.png
 
Need to do some looking with a voltmeter tomorrow.
Only charging at 13.5
Heated seats and screens on and blowers. 12.1
Plan check the engine to chassis earth strap
Alternator output
Then join at starter and at jump start point then battery terminals.
Even if it is alternator dying a 330d one iv sat in workshop is the same
 
stustrong said:
Need to do some looking with a voltmeter tomorrow.
Only charging at 13.5
Heated seats and screens on and blowers. 12.1
Plan check the engine to chassis earth strap
Alternator output
Then join at starter and at jump start point then battery terminals.
Even if it is alternator dying a 330d one iv sat in workshop is the same
Click to expand...
Did you have the engine at 2000rpm?;)
 
stustrong said:
Need to do some looking with a voltmeter tomorrow.
Only charging at 13.5
Heated seats and screens on and blowers. 12.1
Plan check the engine to chassis earth strap
Alternator output
Then join at starter and at jump start point then battery terminals.
Even if it is alternator dying a 330d one iv sat in workshop is the same
Click to expand...
You should see 14.5 to 14.8 volts at 2K rpm. The positive cable to the battery has been know to corrode away inside the insulation, not specifically on the L322.
 
At 2.5k building up speed everything on using the on board menu to see voltage 12.1v 13.5v with everything off except the headlights.
Re cables rotting internally is my reasoning for poking all connections/joints.
 
Drained the gearbox oil as I had a suspicion that the heat exchanger may have been duff and car would go into transmission failsafe mode when warm. Coolant level keeps dropping, nothing on floor, not dropping into engine so go worried it might disappear into gearbox via heat exchanger.
Car put level and raised up, drain plug out and only 3.5 litres out. Was expecting more like 6 lites to come out?? No coolant mixed in and oil looked dark red but not burned and foul smelling. I suspect issue with gearbox may just be down to low level, but no leaks otherwise and was functioning well until not that long ago.
Not dropped the sump pan off yet. Will drop this and change the filter and top up again with fresh fluid. I've bought Mobil LT71141 to be sure of getting the right stuff.
 
NewDragon81 said:
Drained the gearbox oil as I had a suspicion that the heat exchanger may have been duff and car would go into transmission failsafe mode when warm. Coolant level keeps dropping, nothing on floor, not dropping into engine so go worried it might disappear into gearbox via heat exchanger.
Car put level and raised up, drain plug out and only 3.5 litres out. Was expecting more like 6 lites to come out?? No coolant mixed in and oil looked dark red but not burned and foul smelling. I suspect issue with gearbox may just be down to low level, but no leaks otherwise and was functioning well until not that long ago.
Not dropped the sump pan off yet. Will drop this and change the filter and top up again with fresh fluid. I've bought Mobil LT71141 to be sure of getting the right stuff.
Click to expand...
not sure what the capacity for your gearbox is, but much of the oil stays in the torque converter and wont drain out
 
So a bit of poking about.
Everything off at tickover at chassis or engine or battery earth.
Big live back of alternator then starter then jump point then battery.
14.1 at tickover 12.5 loaded up.
Obc showing 13.6 and 12.1
Rear fuse box showing 14v and 12.1v

After switch off battery instantly drops to 12.3v it had about 45mins of running without lights or heaters prior to poking about.

Guess I need a battery too
 
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