Tenebreaux
Well-Known Member
Quick question: Would a low battery prevent nanocom/ EAS suite communicating with the ecu?
Tenebreaux
Well-Known Member
I'll stick the new battery in before I start piddling about undoing panels and checking connections at the weekend. Ta.I think even the wind blowing the wrong way can upset LR's ecectronics
It doesn't help to have one more thing to be second guessing about. I noticed last week I couldn't reset the airbag light on my BMW because the battery was a bit low
Datatek
Well-Known Member
A low battery on a P38 will stop most ECU's from working.
Tenebreaux
Well-Known Member
First point of attack then.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Just a thought, you do know that the ignition has to be on to communicate with the EAS?
Tenebreaux
Well-Known Member
Yeah, position 2. The battery thing occurred to me as I was driving home.
Not with a Nanocom it doesn't! Not on mine anyway.
I wonder if cars with plastic tanks suffer with the new E numbers in the fuel like some bikes do? (Well I know Ducati’s do) These E numbers can really mess with plastics/rubber.
I know, just couldn’t resistlooks good btw. And probably still as good as new inside.
J
Plastic tank in the p38. No issues yet. Mind you, there's time yet.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Plastic stays fine, bolts holding it on that get dodgy (set of 3). I think il cut a hatch just incase don’t want to disturb them
Happy Birthday Mark
Thanks matePlastic stays fine, bolts holding it on that get dodgy (set of 3). I think il cut a hatch just incase don’t want to disturb them
Happy Birthday Mark
frog hopper
Well-Known Member
Some while ago I was having a right mare with a rubbing/grinding noise from under the rear of Buttercup. Stopped when I refurbed and readjusted the handbrake so thought I had found and fixed it.
After a couple of months the noise came back again and this time when I pulled up I got underneath and everything was good except the nose of the rear diff was a bit warm. Getting under properly I could see that the mudshield was loose so undid the input thingy and put the mudshield to one side, at the same time I squirted some Molyslip into the bearing as best I could.
I did start a thread about it hoping that it would be an easy job to replace the bearings, turns out it is a major arse so sort of trying not to do it.
Have now run for 2 months with no repeat of noise, so hoping thats solved it, I will replace the input thingy (it's late and I can't remember the name) with a new one.
After a couple of months the noise came back again and this time when I pulled up I got underneath and everything was good except the nose of the rear diff was a bit warm. Getting under properly I could see that the mudshield was loose so undid the input thingy and put the mudshield to one side, at the same time I squirted some Molyslip into the bearing as best I could.
I did start a thread about it hoping that it would be an easy job to replace the bearings, turns out it is a major arse so sort of trying not to do it.
Have now run for 2 months with no repeat of noise, so hoping thats solved it, I will replace the input thingy (it's late and I can't remember the name) with a new one.
Tried all the FOB pressing stuff when trying to re sync it back in January. Went through all the different syncing fault finding things and even replaced the battery's in the FOB. Nothing worked.
When I was having some work done last year at the only land rover specialst in Crimea (the land Rover Dealership pulled out when the Russians took over in 2014) I asked them about a Nanocom to turn off some stuff and no chance.
Last edited:
It's connected to the thingamabob.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Interesting, where I wonder does the message centre etc get it's power from?
Diagnostic mode for changing settings in BECM is accessed with ignition off with Nanocom.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
As it is with Faultmate, we were talking about the EAS
Don't know but as soon as I plug the Nanocom in it powers up and I can go into EAS menu. It can be a bit of a pain because if I then start the car I have to come out and go back in again.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
You can go to the EAS menu, but I'd bet you cannot communicate or do anything with the EAS until the ignition is on.
