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Tried to fix the SRS light issue. Both bulbs are fine! Broke it some more, fixed what I broke, fiddled some more, ended up back where I started.

@wammers & @Datatek

I had a read through the copy of RAVE on my phone last night. I'll try and reread the fault codes later. It spoke of a fuse behind the A post. Is that right? I don't remember seeing one there but maybe I just forgot? Could it be that fuse?
 
@wammers & @Datatek

I had a read through the copy of RAVE on my phone last night. I'll try and reread the fault codes later. It spoke of a fuse behind the A post. Is that right? I don't remember seeing one there but maybe I just forgot? Could it be that fuse?
I am not aware of a fuse behind the A post. I suggest the open circuit is not in the line to the bulbs but in one of the SRS airbag lines.
 
I am not aware of a fuse behind the A post. I suggest the open circuit is not in the line to the bulbs but in one of the SRS airbag lines.

Or seatbelt tensioner, perhaps?

My worry is that it must have a reference voltage to compare to in the ECU and if that goes awry then it will think the bulb has blown when it hasn't and need new ECU.
 
Or seatbelt tensioner, perhaps?

My worry is that it must have a reference voltage to compare to in the ECU and if that goes awry then it will think the bulb has blown when it hasn't and need new ECU.
It does not need a reference voltage, an open circuit bulb (or broken wire) results in a lack of current flow which is what flags up the fault.
 
It does not need a reference voltage, an open circuit bulb (or broken wire) results in a lack of current flow which is what flags up the fault.

This video looks useful

Pretty sure the fault appears after braking hard and turning into verge to avoid a muppet on my side of the road so might be rotary coupler, I guess. Odd that it flags the bulb as open circuit though.
 
This video looks useful

Pretty sure the fault appears after braking hard and turning into verge to avoid a muppet on my side of the road so might be rotary coupler, I guess. Odd that it flags the bulb as open circuit though.

Could just be a bug in Nanocom, there have been a few, there have also been faults in Faultmate with incorrect fault reporting.
 
Is there some secret way of getting out those bloody plastic stud thingies that hold the trim round the bottom of the passenger seat that doesn't involve mass destruction and swearing?
 
Is there some secret way of getting out those bloody plastic stud thingies that hold the trim round the bottom of the passenger seat that doesn't involve mass destruction and swearing?
They are often difficult, it's rare to have a connector problem with the EAS ECU but you may need to check the EAS relay in the same place.
 
I'll have to dig out the old trim removal bits I have lying around in the garage somewhere. How does one go about accessing the connections to the ODB port?
Drop the panel.
Draper do an inexpensive trim button pry tool. The heads may still come off before they come out.:eek:
 
tried to fit an aftermarket stereo I got my birthday "today" hmm hmm..... stupid funking thing wont give any sound, although my older aftermarket one does....
I only wanted to use the Bluetooth on the stereo so we can listen to spotify on our lass's phone while driving on long drives....I guess i'll have to just make do with the usb key and thirteen albums worth of music:rolleyes:
 

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