How difficult is it to do the gaskets on that engine?
I did mine on a 3.5 carb and found it quite easy once I'd plucked up the courage to make a start.

Very easy job on the RV8 compared to other engines.

Probably easier than a boggo 4 pot modern car.

Loads of access ;)

I'll be doing the timing chain and the waterpump plus a few ancillaries. ;)

She's prolly going to be sold quite soon as i have a chap drooling over it lol
 
Today i drove from Dunkirkto the ferry and landed in Dover and then drove 70 miles home and changed the Oil and filters as it was long overdue as i have been away for about three months in Europe driving every day except when i had a week in hospital in the Ukraine did about 10000 miles altogether and the problems i had with it was a leaking FIP which i had gasket for so fixed it in Poland and then the rivets broke that held the window winder in while i was in Ukrain so replaced them with nuts and bolts .Drove about an average of 150 milrs a day and I find that enough these days and also i dont have to drive 500 miles a day as i had to a few years ago when i drove across Russia and only had a 10 day transit visa.
tomorrow i might wash her and vacuum out all the accumulated dust .
 
Today i drove from Dunkirkto the ferry and landed in Dover and then drove 70 miles home and changed the Oil and filters as it was long overdue as i have been away for about three months in Europe driving every day except when i had a week in hospital in the Ukraine did about 10000 miles altogether and the problems i had with it was a leaking FIP which i had gasket for so fixed it in Poland and then the rivets broke that held the window winder in while i was in Ukrain so replaced them with nuts and bolts .Drove about an average of 150 milrs a day and I find that enough these days and also i dont have to drive 500 miles a day as i had to a few years ago when i drove across Russia and only had a 10 day transit visa.
tomorrow i might wash her and vacuum out all the accumulated dust .
I should think you both deserve to put your feet up for a day and have a half of shandy to celebrate a successfull conclusion.
 
I actually got round to changing the drivers window regulator, so that works properly now and the window no longer whistles above 50mph:)
next to do is the oil cooler pipes hopefully i can save the cooler itself by cutting the nuts in half.
 
Cleaned pollen filters as per rangeroller dt guide Worked rather well came fine Many thanks pal:D:D:D

I have a guide?? :confused::confused:
do remember taking few pics when cleaning them up while ago. Glad you found it helpful and your WI is letting you do what you enjoy, you must be feeling better :) :)
Not really sure what to do with it £500

For £500 you can do what you want, you’re on a win whatever happens. Got few drooling over it now :cool:
 
I have a guide?? :confused::confused:
do remember taking few pics when cleaning them up while ago. Glad you found it helpful and your WI is letting you do what you enjoy, you must be feeling better :) :)


For £500 you can do what you want, you’re on a win whatever happens. Got few drooling over it now :cool:

Yep was a bargain, bought it off the original owner an Elderly gentleman who just wanted rid!! ;)

Got someone lined up to buy her already ;)
 
I actually got round to changing the drivers window regulator, so that works properly now and the window no longer whistles above 50mph:)
next to do is the oil cooler pipes hopefully i can save the cooler itself by cutting the nuts in half.

Yes, that's why I had to replace my rad. :(

They're a sod!
 
Today, I just looked at Photos, but tomorrow I willl go look and take for a test drive.

2011 TDV8 60K miles, FSH.

May well become a RR owner by Saturday, sadly it would mean the D2 having to be shot!

Cheers
 
Today, I just looked at Photos, but tomorrow I willl go look and take for a test drive.

2011 TDV8 60K miles, FSH.

May well become a RR owner by Saturday, sadly it would mean the D2 having to be shot!

Cheers

Gearbox is due a service ;)
 
Today, I just looked at Photos, but tomorrow I willl go look and take for a test drive.

2011 TDV8 60K miles, FSH.

May well become a RR owner by Saturday, sadly it would mean the D2 having to be shot!

Cheers

We love ours:)

J
 
So I have heard,:) do you have a schedule that shows the miles /years schedule?

Cheers

Hi

The schedule is 60k can't remember how many years I believe it's "whichever comes first" etc.

drain and fill procedure for the 8hp.

Tool wise you'll need a 10mm allen key for the sump plug, 8mm for the fill plug and a Torx 40 for the bolts securing the sump to the box. The filter is an integral part of the sump costing an eye watering £265 from sourses and the correct fluid ZF Lifeguard 8 costing £56 per litre of which you'll need to purchase 5-7 litres as on the change



Firstly the job was very straightforward, the main points to mention are that the car must be level in order to attain the correct fluid level as the filling plug is on the side of the box so you need four drive on ramps (drive on two then jack up the other end and lower it onto the second set of ramps - you can use axle stands but when filling the box you need to 'load' the box by way of putting the car in gear [forward for 10 secs then rear for 10 secs] etc so it'll involve a bit of faffing Secondly you need a way of measuring the temperature of the fluid in the box with the engine running in order to ensure you have filled it by the correct amount so preferably using diagnostic equipment or if not available you could use an IR thermomenter for £25 for a good 'un IIRC



Having lifted the car by whatever means first job is to check the you can undo the filling plug,,,, then undo the sump drain plug and collect the fluid in a bowl and save it for measuring purposes later to determine how much fluid you have drained from the box, if nothing else if it's the first time the box has had a fluid change and it doesn't show signs of leakage you could do worse than putting back the same amount of fluid etc. Next step is to remove the 12 bolts securing the sump to the box then lower the sump from the box, you might need to gently manipulate the sump as at the rear is the oil feed pipe with a rubber seal but be careful as the sump will still have about 1/2 litre of fluid in it due to drain plug not being at the lowest point of the sump.



Refitting simply involves fitting the new sump and refilling it I use a Vac Pump Sealey IIRC it makes Transmission oil filling easier with ZF Lifeguard 8 fluid, initially the box might take four litres until the fluid startes to flow back out of the filling plug hole but following running the engine and placing the gearbox selector in drive for ten seconds then reverse for the same time another litre to 1/2 will be required to fill the box. Next thing to do is check the level with the fluid at a temperature of between 40º - 50ºC as the fluid expands when hot etc, job done

"breath".. ;)
 
Today, I just looked at Photos, but tomorrow I willl go look and take for a test drive.

2011 TDV8 60K miles, FSH.

May well become a RR owner by Saturday, sadly it would mean the D2 having to be shot!

Cheers

Better with the petrol engine I think. The Jag one.
 
The schedule is 60k can't remember how many years I believe it's "whichever comes first" etc.

I understood it was 60K driven hard, 100K driven easy, or 10 years. Of course I have no idea how it was driven in the earlier years. Would like to find a proper sevice schedule, but hope I get one of those if I buy the new motor.

Thanks for the how to, seems easy enough.


Cheers
 

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