I had to replace the VCU since mine was solid. The guide from Ashcroft said to remove the gearbox mount to make room for the VCU to fit, but that looked like more work than my solution, which was to unbolt the crossbeam and knock it down a touch. I since saw many guides which suggest completely removing the crossbeam, which seems like way more work. They are a bastard to refit, so why make yourself that much work?
 

Attachments

  • 20190120_173734.jpg
    20190120_173734.jpg
    232.2 KB · Views: 116
Bix said:
I had to replace the VCU since mine was solid. The guide from Ashcroft said to remove the gearbox mount to make room for the VCU to fit, but that looked like more work than my solution, which was to unbolt the crossbeam and knock it down a touch. I since saw many guides which suggest completely removing the crossbeam, which seems like way more work. They are a bastard to refit, so why make yourself that much work?
Click to expand...

That is the way it would be done at a dealers. You would of course be charged the full standard time even though 50% of it would not be used. Plus materials of course.
 
wammers said:
That is the way it would be done at a dealers. You would of course be charged the full standard time even though 50% of it would not be used. Plus materials of course.
Click to expand...
I think I spent about an hour using spanners, would've had the whole job done in maybe 2 hours if it wasn't for the fact my oil pump bottle thingy broke. Having to fill the tbox using a 20ml syringe was soul destroying.
 
Bix said:
I think I spent about an hour using spanners, would've had the whole job done in maybe 2 hours if it wasn't for the fact my oil pump bottle thingy broke. Having to fill the tbox using a 20ml syringe was soul destroying.
Click to expand...

I'll bet it was. Well done good job done cheap. ;);)
 
Hi all anyone got the rectifier part no for the 2.5 Dr. Read it somewhere on here the other day and can't find it now:oops: just spent the last two hours going through the latest threads and searching but to no avail:(:(:(. Reason being mines only putting 13.8v out and fitted new battery so want to upgrade alternator to 14.5v

Edit that should be 2.5td bloody predictive text
 
Last edited:
stemac33 said:
Hi all anyone got the rectifier part no for the 2.5 Dr. Read it somewhere on here the other day and can't find it now:oops: just spent the last two hours going through the latest threads and searching but to no avail:(:(:(. Reason being mines only putting 13.8v out and fitted new battery so want to upgrade alternator to 14.5v
Click to expand...
@Datatek .. @wammers.
Wait for it!!!
 
stemac33 said:
Hi all anyone got the rectifier part no for the 2.5 Dr. Read it somewhere on here the other day and can't find it now:oops: just spent the last two hours going through the latest threads and searching but to no avail:(:(:(. Reason being mines only putting 13.8v out and fitted new battery so want to upgrade alternator to 14.5v
Click to expand...

Here you go this is the same as the one i was advised to fit and did and posted up couple of weeks age:)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-volt-...h=item2843ebd7f9:g:JqAAAOSwMuZbyfHf:rk:2:pf:0
 
Last edited:
It was in the thread (For todays tricks the fuse box burnt out ) i just searched my posts and found it, i could of searched the part number as the box is still sitting next to the computer :D
 
Got somewhere with my ongoing problem with the glowplug relay on Buttercup today, well I actually did sod all, I just stood and watched @Datatek work his magic in the cold. Seems there is an anomaly in the wiring somewhere so going to have to do without the dash light telling me the glows are operating, pretty certain I can reliably count up to 15 most times before I operate the starter.
Anyway, all safe and she now starts on the button from cold. :D:D:D:D
Thanks for the help on a freezing cold morning. Top man. :):)
 
frog hopper said:
Got somewhere with my ongoing problem with the glowplug relay on Buttercup today, well I actually did sod all, I just stood and watched @Datatek work his magic in the cold. Seems there is an anomaly in the wiring somewhere so going to have to do without the dash light telling me the glows are operating, pretty certain I can reliably count up to 15 most times before I operate the starter.
Anyway, all safe and she now starts on the button from cold. :D:D:D:D
Thanks for the help on a freezing cold morning. Top man. :):)
Click to expand...
Is that counting 1 to 15, or 15 to 1..'coz that would throw me..these days I would forget which I was going..:confused::confused::confused:
 
Glow plug timing is variable subject to temp reading from sender. Normally summer would be 4 to 5 seconds winter up to 10 seconds or so. Try counting thousand and one, thousand and two, thousand and three, Etc. To get a more accurate second.
 
wammers said:
Glow plug timing is variable subject to temp reading from sender. Normally summer would be 4 to 5 seconds winter up to 10 seconds or so. Try counting thousand and one, thousand and two, thousand and three, Etc. To get a more accurate second.
Click to expand...
Not on a VM Tony, there is no temperature sender. Glow plug operation is terminated on a hot start by the D+ line from the alternator.
 
Datatek said:
Not on a VM Tony, there is no temperature sender. Glow plug operation is terminated on a hot start by the D+ line from the alternator.
Click to expand...

Oh ok didn't notice it was about a VM. This section can be confusing at times when you can get five posts about ten different vehicles. And the answer or comment could be to a post made three weeks ago. ;):D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
Range Rover L322 - not turning over
Replies
11
Views
822
brasso
brasso
B
L320 range rover sport 3.0 tdv6 loosing power steering fluid
Replies
3
Views
406
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
F
1980 Range Rover 2 door v8 to 300tdi
2
Replies
20
Views
1K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
T
Non start
Replies
3
Views
691
Datatek
Datatek
T
Fan Clutch??
Replies
14
Views
744
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr