gold rover said:
Yep tried, knocking it over to 'manual , makes no difference. Wheels were played around with(not by choice!), when the alloys were done up. Like I said , I think once again , I am now looking at two faults originally but now seeking the fault that was being hidden by the caliper fault. I'm confident the boys will eventually find it. I'll mention brake disc runout, and by Friday I'll have googled and learned what that is :cool::D:D:D:D

Addit: Just googled brake disc run out and think it can be ruled out. There is no vibration on braking, only at 70mph approx. Some types of road surface make it worse (no not cobbles ;) ). I can be quite happily sitting at 70mph and surface changes, hello vibration, same surface at a different time, no vibration. The run to London and back, was a nice long run to check if there were any factors that brought the vibration on, but there is no rhyme or reason behind it.
I can only think there is something that every now and then all factors come together and the light vibration appears. The only common factor is road speed.
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Lost wheel weight would be a good starting point as said. Try balancing them before getting on to more expensive stuff like prop etc.
 
frog hopper said:
Had a butchers up under the clutch pedal and yes the fecking thing is weeping, so a new oem master is now ordered. :(:(
While I was faffing about I took out the under bonnet light switch which I thought was duff, just needed the contacts cleaning, a rub with some vasaline and jobs a good-un.
Flushed with success I had a go at tracing the fault with the rear screen heater. I'm getting to be senile, it was cold, I was trying to not want to go and have a pee and I was tired. So I spent 30 minutes cutting and routing new heavy flex to get a good earth point, and then tested it to find I'd dangerously modded the feed. :mad::mad::mad: So it still does not work, but I think a few minutes tomorrow will sort out my cock-up.
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Do you mean you put it away before you finished peeing?;):)
 
Joss155 said:
Lost wheel weight would be a good starting point as said. Try balancing them before getting on to more expensive stuff like prop etc.
Click to expand...
Thanks but as stated earlier , wheel balance and alignment were only done less than a month ago. Also wheel balance would be at all speeds not within such a narrow parameter. This has been an on going problem for several weeks and all 'simple solutions were checked, before it went to the Indy. The Indy then checked it and found sticking calipers , which solved it for approx 30 miles, during which I never went over approx 55mph. Then a much less harsh , less noticeable vibration appeared/returned, once I could get up to 70ish . It is going back to the Indy on Friday so I will hopefully know by then.
 
gold rover said:
Thanks but as stated earlier , wheel balance and alignment were only done less than a month ago. Also wheel balance would be at all speeds not within such a narrow parameter. This has been an on going problem for several weeks and all 'simple solutions were checked, before it went to the Indy. The Indy then checked it and found sticking calipers , which solved it for approx 30 miles, during which I never went over approx 55mph. Then a much less harsh , less noticeable vibration appeared/returned, once I could get up to 70ish . It is going back to the Indy on Friday so I will hopefully know by then.
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Whilst I'm sure the wheel balancing has been done and PROBABLY isn't the cause, wheels out of balance do manifest in a very narrow window of speed.
Typically, on older cars with smaller wheels it used to be around 60mph but with bigger wider wheels it can happen higher up the speed range.
For what it costs to get them checked, I'd have them done again.
It's possible that if you've had your wheels refurbished, the tyres may have moved slightly on the rims after balancing, especially if the dodgy caliper was loading them unevenly.
For 20 notes or so, I'd be having them checked again.
Bear in mind also that many of the tyre fitters have no idea how to work the balancing machine properly and often I've seen mine be 10g out and they're about to refit the wheel! (it's close enough sir!)
No it isn't on a 2 tonne vehicle with 18" 225mm tyres.
Just one other thing, are your harmonic dampers OK on the axles?
 
gold rover said:
Thanks but as stated earlier , wheel balance and alignment were only done less than a month ago. Also wheel balance would be at all speeds not within such a narrow parameter. This has been an on going problem for several weeks and all 'simple solutions were checked, before it went to the Indy. The Indy then checked it and found sticking calipers , which solved it for approx 30 miles, during which I never went over approx 55mph. Then a much less harsh , less noticeable vibration appeared/returned, once I could get up to 70ish . It is going back to the Indy on Friday so I will hopefully know by then.
Click to expand...
You can get quite specific wheel wobble at speeds. It's happened on 2 of my other vehicles and turned out to be a lost weight. Vibration wasn't there until about 65 and then was almost gone by 75. Swapping wheels to the rear does make a difference. Sorry if I'm going over old ground but did the wobble start after the refurb?
 
Found the track rod on the drag link is fecked ......little bit of a knock on left/right steering. Luckily its the one you can change so gonna swop it out until i can get another complete drag link as this one isnt very old.
Might be time for some heavy duty ones with a grease nipple
 
Had a few minutes spare between doing things today (can't really call them jobs) so tackled my cock-up on the heated rear screen. Confirmed the live feed was still the live feed after my butchering it yesterday, confirmed no continuity on earth. Ran a new heavy earth lead to a good earth point, tested and it works. That is all. :D:D:D:D
 
frog hopper said:
Had a few minutes spare between doing things today (can't really call them jobs) so tackled my cock-up on the heated rear screen. Confirmed the live feed was still the live feed after my butchering it yesterday, confirmed no continuity on earth. Ran a new heavy earth lead to a good earth point, tested and it works. That is all. :D:D:D:D
Click to expand...
Glad to hear you sorted it. Much better than the alternative :eek:
 
Took me longer to find my ball joint splitter than to change the ball joint.
20180110_130841.jpg
 
Figure out how to disable the auto folding mirrors in the vehicle menu, only to find you can't - you have to go to the LR dealer. Sheesh.
 
I have replaced two motors since I've had the car due to being frozen solid when unlocking the car. Not cheap to replace, and this is an easy and relatively cheap workaround.
 
Kernowkid66 said:
I have replaced two motors since I've had the car due to being frozen solid when unlocking the car. Not cheap to replace, and this is an easy and relatively cheap workaround.
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Try Graphite Powder Lubricant instead of oil or grease, powder wont freeze as easy, I find its a lot better and I put it in my ignition lock as well
 
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