Glynforster
Member
Finally got round to changing the rear airbags, its been sat on bump stops for over a week since back left bag failed, followed the instructions and videos off here and it all went well, the clips were rusted in so had to drive them out with a punch but new bag went in easy.
Jacked up the other side to change that but it looks like new so decided to leave that side and keep it as a spare.
All pumped up and working better than ever.
The airbag that was ruptured has Land Rover on it so im wondering if this was the original one from new??.
Just ABS Fault/Traction Failure warning to sort now.
Jacked up the other side to change that but it looks like new so decided to leave that side and keep it as a spare.
All pumped up and working better than ever.
The airbag that was ruptured has Land Rover on it so im wondering if this was the original one from new??.
Just ABS Fault/Traction Failure warning to sort now.
Sold it. 18mths, 39k miles covered, got half my buying price back. I am one Happy Bunny:bounce::bounce::bounce: Mind you most of those miles were spent with one eye on the temp. gauge and one ear out the window listening for gremlins. I just hope the new one is less frought. :behindsofa:
stuu
Well-Known Member
Thats 10k iv done in her now.
ordered land rover dealer parts.
new air filter
fuel filter
pollen filters
oil and filter
gearbox oil and filter dex 3 for a transfer box change again
Diff oils
Injector spill pipes
glowplugs
still got 2gallons of petrol sat to clean out inlet manifold and intercooler and pipe work again.
Coolant for another coolant change
Bulbs for message display in dials 1 side is dim
bulbs for hevac units as buttons dim on 1 side
A washer pump for rear window wash and headlight wash new little wiper blades for them too
Still got my front hubseals to do and all wheels off and check brakes are all free and had a thaught of mabye doing my callipers red while im at it.
Now just on the look for 4 tyres
Once she's motd i can get my van motd and either make a start on gathering eas stuff to go back too that see what all the fuss is about im not doing it 2nd hand. Iv still got compressor and valve block and some pipes are there they'll need replaced as id want it as carefree as possible. or sort interior out
ordered land rover dealer parts.
new air filter
fuel filter
pollen filters
oil and filter
gearbox oil and filter dex 3 for a transfer box change again
Diff oils
Injector spill pipes
glowplugs
still got 2gallons of petrol sat to clean out inlet manifold and intercooler and pipe work again.
Coolant for another coolant change
Bulbs for message display in dials 1 side is dim
bulbs for hevac units as buttons dim on 1 side
A washer pump for rear window wash and headlight wash new little wiper blades for them too
Still got my front hubseals to do and all wheels off and check brakes are all free and had a thaught of mabye doing my callipers red while im at it.
Now just on the look for 4 tyres
Once she's motd i can get my van motd and either make a start on gathering eas stuff to go back too that see what all the fuss is about im not doing it 2nd hand. Iv still got compressor and valve block and some pipes are there they'll need replaced as id want it as carefree as possible. or sort interior out
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Finally got round to changing the rear airbags, its been sat on bump stops for over a week since back left bag failed, followed the instructions and videos off here and it all went well, the clips were rusted in so had to drive them out with a punch but new bag went in easy.
Jacked up the other side to change that but it looks like new so decided to leave that side and keep it as a spare.
All pumped up and working better than ever.
The airbag that was ruptured has Land Rover on it so im wondering if this was the original one from new??.
Just ABS Fault/Traction Failure warning to sort now.
Change the other bag and keep the used one as a spare. They should always be done in pairs, or better still all 4 together.
What dash bulbs did you go for? I cannot read the tacho unless it is dark! Been meaning to get around to it but had more important issues (in my eyes.)
martynv8
Well-Known Member
Stripped my old engine down.
Pretty impressed with the state of the crank, journals, pistons etc.
Then i got to looking at the cam:
One cam lobe is worn to almost flat.
[/IMG]
Lifter badly worn.
This lobe is for the exhaust valve on the cylinder with a slipped liner.
Maybe this caused a localised overheat in the cylinder causing the liner to slip?
Pretty impressed with the state of the crank, journals, pistons etc.
Then i got to looking at the cam:
One cam lobe is worn to almost flat.
Lifter badly worn.
This lobe is for the exhaust valve on the cylinder with a slipped liner.
Maybe this caused a localised overheat in the cylinder causing the liner to slip?
ukadamwest
Well-Known Member
what kind of mileage Martyn ?
martynv8
Well-Known Member
This was a Genuine LR replacement engine. Replaced at 55k. Had done 158K when this one was replaced so just over 100k. I was planning on changing the cam anyway (before the liner gave way). The rest of the cam lobes & lifters were pretty good for the mileage. Possibly a stuck lifter?
ukadamwest
Well-Known Member
Thanks Martyn.. my Blue P38 is at 130k now runs very smooth and clan and very punchy. I'm think of a top end rebuild in the next couple of months.. HG, VG and maybe some rocker shafts push rods and cam.
Thinking of doing it before the HG goes and a 'while i'm in there' kind of thing.
Thinking of doing it before the HG goes and a 'while i'm in there' kind of thing.
martynv8
Well-Known Member
Good luck with that Adam, what makes you think the HG is giving way?
PS. would recommend the Kent 180 cam. Pulls like a train with very little throttle. Haven't run it past 3500rpm yet though.
ukadamwest
Well-Known Member
I dont think the HG is giving way. but there is oil leakage from the VG i have been towing a fair amount.
So if i'm going to pull the inlet manifold to get to the VG then for the sake of the cost of HG's and new replacement head bolts, i'm kind of 2/3rds of the way there and it will probably be worthwhile to change the HG before anything goes rather than after.
To ben honest, the P38 does everything it says on the tin and what would i change it for ? nothing really.
So if i'm going to pull the inlet manifold to get to the VG then for the sake of the cost of HG's and new replacement head bolts, i'm kind of 2/3rds of the way there and it will probably be worthwhile to change the HG before anything goes rather than after.
To ben honest, the P38 does everything it says on the tin and what would i change it for ? nothing really.
Littelwill
Well-Known Member
Ive never done a P38 head gasket what sort of time does one take? Just out of interest
martynv8
Well-Known Member
I'd say worthwhile then. A thor with LPG isn't the easiest to strip the top end down so might aswell whilst your in there.
My HG's (Both) blew at around 117k. There were signs of it starting to blow again through the middle cylinders to inside headbolts when we pulled the engine. Does seem to be a weak point here.
Know what your saying about the P38. Seems madness to spend 3k on a new engine for mine but then there's nothing else i'd rather have. At least mine had the good nature to not overheat with blown HG's & then a slipped liner
biketeacherdave
Well-Known Member
having just done my hg realisticly a couple of days start to finish if you havnt done one of these before mines a 4.6 thor.
i did get some spare heads in a mate had a couple sitting on his shelf i had them skimmed n pressure tested just as well as a manifold stud sheered clean off when i removed the exhaust manifolds.
the answer to my earlier post about pulling the heads off with the manifolds attached is no just to be clear on that point.
the heat shields took me longer to remove than the heads i did spend a few hours de-cokeing my new heads lapping the valves in and replacing the valve stem oil seals.
adam the kit from island 4x4 has everything you need to do the job i do wish i had replaced my cam while i was in there i still have a cammy ticking but i cant hear it in the car and with the middle box removed n straight threw pipe on nor can any one else
i did get some spare heads in a mate had a couple sitting on his shelf i had them skimmed n pressure tested just as well as a manifold stud sheered clean off when i removed the exhaust manifolds.
the answer to my earlier post about pulling the heads off with the manifolds attached is no just to be clear on that point.
the heat shields took me longer to remove than the heads i did spend a few hours de-cokeing my new heads lapping the valves in and replacing the valve stem oil seals.
adam the kit from island 4x4 has everything you need to do the job i do wish i had replaced my cam while i was in there i still have a cammy ticking but i cant hear it in the car and with the middle box removed n straight threw pipe on nor can any one else
ukadamwest
Well-Known Member
Ive never done a P38 head gasket what sort of time does one take? Just out of interest
When i did the classic (essentially the same as a GEMS engine i would say 4 hrs to strip down and about 3 to put back together. Depends on how much tea you drink.. how crapped up bolt heads are and i like to clean everything up as well
I didnt do it in one hit as i ordered up replacement bolts, belts and other random bits so waited for them to arrive
all done here :
When i do the P38 i'll probably take some time out and polish / paint the rocker covers and clean up the engine bay.. to get it looking a bit like this maybe ..
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WURZAL THE LANDY
Active Member
Well I managed to grab a couple of hours between jobs today so managed to get the last chrome door handle fitted have been waiting a couple of weeks for it to turn up. I had the front gill in primmer awaiting me having some time so I got it painted now just to get the time to get a couple of coats of lacquer on it and refit hopefully tomorrow.
biketeacherdave
Well-Known Member
Don't think mines that clean but I did repaint my rocker covers lol
