3. hevac book symbol again

Yeah mine is on now.. was just getting used to warm seats and seeing no book symbol..

fault reader shows persistant fault on the potentiometer. oh that will be fun !

also the light on HVAC bulb is out of yesterday. i have some spares in hand from doing the other P38 though.
 
Did you follow the correct procedure, or just take the slack up in the cable? You must adjust the shoes first then the cable.

Yes, saw your How To. :)

Shoes needed no adjustment as suspected. Cable took quite a lot.
 
Ahh littlewill wish i had the cash. Steering box was new and father in law left old one in the boot. Carpets stained all way from boot to frontwells. Theres a lad local got a grey interior in two minds as itd get less wrecked. Might just get around to doing it bit by bit Creme again After its mot in July i think it is

Creme looks better. Car looks lovely. Mine has the grey interior but not sure it is original. My door-cards sure as hell aren't as they have a wood strip and an extra speaker with no cable!

LittleWill: spare injection pump?! They're like hens teeth!
 
Creme looks better. Car looks lovely. Mine has the grey interior but not sure it is original. My door-cards sure as hell aren't as they have a wood strip and an extra speaker with no cable!

LittleWill: spare injection pump?! They're like hens teeth!


Long story really but its there if anyone wants to cross my hand with beer tokens..
 
Pumps pretty good I believe. Not leaking the only reason for it's removal was when started the check engine light would flicker on and then go out when warm. Timing checked out fine but was swapped for a recon one.
 
Pumps pretty good I believe. Not leaking the only reason for it's removal was when started the check engine light would flicker on and then go out when warm. Timing checked out fine but was swapped for a recon one.

That cured the check engine light coming on?
 
Jumped in the car for the weekly 60Km shopping run, as usual it fired up immediately after the glowplug cycle, the engine then promptly stopped dead:confused: It took a hell of a lot of cranking to get it to fire again. All seemed well, but on our 30Km run to the shops there was a strong smell of diesel, it seems injector number 5 is leaking (yes 5 not 4), not sure where from yet but the leak off pipes look OK. I assume air getting in via the leak caused the engine to stop. So that's tomorrow's job:mad:
 
Looked under it. All i mean all pas autobox and engine oil ferrul joints weaping so il be following the 'how too' next weekend. And got a weap by turbo looks like feed and return pipes New copper washers i hope front diff topped up (1ltr) jheese. Stoped aircon pump rattling.
 
Jumped in the car for the weekly 60Km shopping run, as usual it fired up immediately after the glowplug cycle, the engine then promptly stopped dead:confused: It took a hell of a lot of cranking to get it to fire again. All seemed well, but on our 30Km run to the shops there was a strong smell of diesel, it seems injector number 5 is leaking (yes 5 not 4), not sure where from yet but the leak off pipes look OK. I assume air getting in via the leak caused the engine to stop. So that's tomorrow's job:mad:

If the in tank pump and the engine are running air cannot possibly get into the injection pump from the spill pipes or the injection pipes.
 
If the in tank pump and the engine are running air cannot possibly get into the injection pump from the spill pipes or the injection pipes.

Not trying to cause an argument but if feedpipe or spill pipe is leaking fuel out then when engine is off it will suck air in and cause an airlock in injector and a missfire. i know an intank pump feeds the ip. And so on but even any air in system would cause a missfire and an occasional cutout. mine did this with the filter casing sucking in air. Since thats been done 1 cycle of gplugs insted of 3
 
Not trying to cause an argument but if feedpipe or spill pipe is leaking fuel out then when engine is off it will suck air in and cause an airlock in injector and a missfire. i know an intank pump feeds the ip. And so on but even any air in system would cause a missfire and an occasional cutout. mine did this with the filter casing sucking in air. Since thats been done 1 cycle of gplugs insted of 3

You are not causing an argument, but read carefully what i wrote. Did not mention feed pipe.
 
Binned the stupid useless led head light bulbs and fitted standard bulbs I can now see at night. Fixed the sun visor using a longer screw so the clip stays in place. Sorted the boot carpet that was coming away at the spare wheel cover. Hoovered her out then went for a spin
 
If the in tank pump and the engine are running air cannot possibly get into the injection pump from the spill pipes or the injection pipes.
In tank pump is fine and the tank is three quarters full. Air in the system is the only thing I can think of that would have caused a stall with a lot of cranking needed to re-start.
Will be looking at it over the weekend, I'll re-check the in tank pump when I've sorted the leak, think it might be the injector pipe. Will also look and see if any faults are logged.

Just to round this off, one of my newish leak off pipes had decided to go porous:mad:
No faults logged on the EDC, modulation around 47% once warmed up, so all looks good.:)
 
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In tank pump is fine and the tank is three quarters full. Air in the system is the only thing I can think of that would have caused a stall with a lot of cranking needed to re-start.
Will be looking at it over the weekend, I'll re-check the in tank pump when I've sorted the leak, think it might be the injector pipe. Will also look and see if any faults are logged.

Could well be a split injector pipe but air cannot get back into the pump from that. The delivery valve is in the way.
 
Fitted new anti roll bar rubbers and roll bar links (noticed wear on MOT) so changed rather than wait for them to fail
 

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