Castor
Trainee maniac
It does - and it's repeatable which is a start.
It will sometimes do it after hitting a speed bump at er... speed as well - somehow it seems most like a dodgy connector.
It does - and it's repeatable which is a start.
It will sometimes do it after hitting a speed bump at er... speed as well - somehow it seems most like a dodgy connector.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I would go for a sensor with a worn track.
biketeacherdave
Well-Known Member
oil n filter change 10 min job
rear washer pump 20 mins trying to remove the fog light dont bother that last screw up there in the right hand corner is a pig so put the other 3 screws back in and reached up behind the fog lamo and gave the old pump a tug 30 second job, take the new pump out the box completly different refit old pump refill washer bottle fire off email to seller on ebay with a complaint correct pump ordered from different seller
rear washer pump 20 mins trying to remove the fog light dont bother that last screw up there in the right hand corner is a pig so put the other 3 screws back in and reached up behind the fog lamo and gave the old pump a tug 30 second job, take the new pump out the box completly different refit old pump refill washer bottle fire off email to seller on ebay with a complaint correct pump ordered from different seller
Castor
Trainee maniac
That sounds entirely reasonable. I think it was you who said that they are opposed sense double tracks?
Too blooming cold & wet to find out at the minute!
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Think found out what my problem was, weight difference due to me emptying my wallet because of the Enemy's latest project. She thinks them up and I do the work. Bugger.
Castor
Trainee maniac
Thanks. Helpful. Guaranteed to wear out/crack/decompose.
Like so many other systems on this beast it's just the wrong technology.
The correct technology would have been non-contact - Hall effect or LVDT/RVDT - which in quantity would have been either cheaper or comparable in price.
[RANT]Using resistance was just plain bloody lazy or ignorant. Probably both, given the state of the UK industry when it was designed.....[/RANT]
Wife left the lights on all night.
Removed flattened battery, charged battery, reconnected charged battery, waited 30 minutes for Key Code Lockout, entered EKA, set windows, set sunroof, sync'd both keys, started car, drove off.
I wasn't expecting that!
I love it when a plan comes together.
Removed flattened battery, charged battery, reconnected charged battery, waited 30 minutes for Key Code Lockout, entered EKA, set windows, set sunroof, sync'd both keys, started car, drove off.
I wasn't expecting that!
I love it when a plan comes together.
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Datatek
Well-Known Member
My preference would be solid state piezo strain gauge technology.
Castor
Trainee maniac
Several downsides that I can think of:-
Moisture sensitivity; probably ok if fully encapsulated but this can fail due to element flexure.
Charge amplifier needed - at least on the Kistler ones I've used. Set zero and zero drift can be an issue. Linearity can be an issue.
The piezo element by definition measures force applied upon it without deforming - so mechanical element can change characteristic over time.
All kinds of issues - I've done serious battle with most of these technologies when testing oil drilling tech..
Piezo's great for ultra high speed/high resolution (with suitable DAQ), and can be sensitive enough to detect a breath from ten metres away (tried it - amazed) - insane turndown ratios possible, but none of the examples I have met would survive a Landyzone users tender ministrations for too long. Things may well have changed of course in the seventeen years (arg) since I was doing this in anger!
LVDT & Hall effect have the advantage of no physical connection necessary between the static and the live element.
I'm seriously thinking (!) of creating a DIY LVDT (hand-wound, built with pipe and nails) and 4x PID loop (Cheap off ebay) replacement EAS controller - this would be less difficult than you might think....
I'm sane, honest......
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I suspect, like a replacement HEVAC, that you would find creating a replacement EAS ECU difficult. The things you overlook may only become apparent when on the road.
The EAS ECU is very reliable, the height sensors are good for 100K miles, so I can't see the problem. The driver pack is another matter.
Castor
Trainee maniac
<from an inverted P38 in a ditch> "well I *thought* it worked like that.....
I like re-engineering things for entertainment. I can't help it. OCD probably. Besides, it looks like my sensors are reaching end of life, and that's going to cost real money to fix. If I can do it with some tubes, a few nails and some op-amps that I already have, why not eh?
Is that the set of solenoid driver transistors? That could be ruggedised I'm sure.... Do they fail a lot?
Littelwill
Well-Known Member
Just got home after driving 403.8 miles in the Range Rover... Not a single issue. Cruised down the M1 like she was brand new! Very pleased.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Bit more complicated than that, pick & hold for fast response. Easy enough to re-engineer. I'll do it when I have time with more up to date components.
They don't fail a lot but when they do it's a PITA. I've repaired 2, both on test at the moment.
Castor
Trainee maniac
Indeed. For me the issue is whether I can fix things in the field. I intend to keep this shed - and it's intended use is as a mobile beekeeping shed - and so I want to make things as simple as possible. Mayhaps removing the E from EAS will prove to be the solution in time....
I'll rarely be going more than a couple of miles, so ABS & TC are optional....
And so on.
I should have just bought a Series..... unbreakable.....
Datatek
Well-Known Member
ukadamwest
Well-Known Member
That sounds ominous !
