Yesterday afternoon changed leak off pipe from FIP to number 1 injector as it got damaged when FIP changed. Nosy bloke from down road proceeded to explain to me how easy FIP's were to time up. He had done load's (supposedly) by just fitting pump fullest away from block then tapping towards block. His theory was modulation increased as it turned towards the block, ie it was at 0 full way and 100 the nearest block. Now not being an expert on this topic I kept my gob shut and just smiled. Can some one give me the facts so next time he sticks his nose in I can reply with confidence.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
My family is mainly from Heckmondwike , so more Yorkshire moors than dales, wish I could have afford to retire there.
Flossie
Well-Known Member
Modulation % increases further from the block. No expert but I've done two and both were 80%+, both needed moving towards the block to get to c50%.
Thank you kind sir. Thats what I was sure of. When I did my modulation Keith's way it was 80% and tapping towards the block reduced it to 52%.
This bloke talks out of his a**e some times
For some it's an acquired skill, others more natural
Wazzajnr
Well-Known Member
Found a breakers yard open this morning. Didn't have an L322 slide pin but I knew the ones on my insignia were virtually identical so bought a couple of those.
They were slightly too long and approx 1mm too big on diameter so had to chuck them on the lathe for modification.
All back together and working well now I think.
Parking sensors to fix next.
They were slightly too long and approx 1mm too big on diameter so had to chuck them on the lathe for modification.
All back together and working well now I think.
Parking sensors to fix next.
Me think it's natural
hef19898
Well-Known Member
Today's plan was:
- remove the old exhaust
- replace the clogged fuel line
- install the new exhaust
As you might have guessed, this plan didn't survive first contact with reality. The old exhaust needed some serious convincing with the angle grinder to get out, that alone took 1.5 hours. Then it turned out that the flanges of the new exhaust, a stainless steel one, don't fit the manifold, bugger. The engineer in me gets why the manifold has to struds and one hole for a bolt, that makes it easier to fit. I don't get it why those struds would have different diameters, which means the holes in the new flange don't fit.
Not having the gear to drill through 8 mm of stainless steel at home, I wanted to go a local maker space and drill some bigger ones in both flanges. Cleaned myself a bit, and realized my wife took the car and had the keys for the other in her bag.
Well, at least I got the new fuel line installed and she's running like a charm now! Quite noisy without the exhaust so...
Well, maker space next week, exhaust finally next week-end and TΓV / MOT the first week of August, hopefully, when I'm an vacation...
Oh, and who ever produced the new carpet set forgot that a RRC has, besides the gear stick, a parking break, a diff lock switch and lever for the transfer case. Or why else would they have forgotten to add holes for those in the cebter carpet???? Meaning I need to sacrifice one of the carpets for trunk, which I don't need anyway and have my local upholsterer fix the center carpet.
She looks great so with the new, brown carpet and the refirbished, beige center console!
Which leaves a new paint job and the diff replacements, but I'll pay someone for those...
- remove the old exhaust
- replace the clogged fuel line
- install the new exhaust
As you might have guessed, this plan didn't survive first contact with reality. The old exhaust needed some serious convincing with the angle grinder to get out, that alone took 1.5 hours. Then it turned out that the flanges of the new exhaust, a stainless steel one, don't fit the manifold, bugger. The engineer in me gets why the manifold has to struds and one hole for a bolt, that makes it easier to fit. I don't get it why those struds would have different diameters, which means the holes in the new flange don't fit.
Not having the gear to drill through 8 mm of stainless steel at home, I wanted to go a local maker space and drill some bigger ones in both flanges. Cleaned myself a bit, and realized my wife took the car and had the keys for the other in her bag.
Well, at least I got the new fuel line installed and she's running like a charm now! Quite noisy without the exhaust so...
Well, maker space next week, exhaust finally next week-end and TΓV / MOT the first week of August, hopefully, when I'm an vacation...
Oh, and who ever produced the new carpet set forgot that a RRC has, besides the gear stick, a parking break, a diff lock switch and lever for the transfer case. Or why else would they have forgotten to add holes for those in the cebter carpet???? Meaning I need to sacrifice one of the carpets for trunk, which I don't need anyway and have my local upholsterer fix the center carpet.
She looks great so with the new, brown carpet and the refirbished, beige center console!
Which leaves a new paint job and the diff replacements, but I'll pay someone for those...
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So it's come to this and serious about it... But.... The eas is starting to wind me up.
All heights set in good fashion and relate to their respective boundaries.
A good powerfull pump,
A rebuilt block with no leaks,
Three driver packs tried, (2 repaired and one in original state).
No faults,
Recent sensors,
No leaking anywhere on the car!!!
So, at motorway height the front lifts and drop considerably,
At normal height the rear lifts and drops considerably.
Maybe one trip out in ten it's settled but now it's starting to grate on me to the point where I've pulled the relay. For over a week it's sat at the same height it was when I pulled the relay and hasn't budged..
It's been a relief not to hear the pump killing itself every 5 seconds.. A 300β¬ pump wearing out and I'm nearly done with it.
So... Even though it's at a slightly higher position than normal height and along with the terra shocks it's still really stable on the road.. Even on the motorway... I may rip the system out and go for springs... Yes I know, sacrilege... But I am fed up of the stupidity and to the best of my efforts I'm fed up with it. Calibration after calibration.... One in ten times it's settled and most of time it's starting to ruin the time I spend in it
All heights set in good fashion and relate to their respective boundaries.
A good powerfull pump,
A rebuilt block with no leaks,
Three driver packs tried, (2 repaired and one in original state).
No faults,
Recent sensors,
No leaking anywhere on the car!!!
So, at motorway height the front lifts and drop considerably,
At normal height the rear lifts and drops considerably.
Maybe one trip out in ten it's settled but now it's starting to grate on me to the point where I've pulled the relay. For over a week it's sat at the same height it was when I pulled the relay and hasn't budged..
It's been a relief not to hear the pump killing itself every 5 seconds.. A 300β¬ pump wearing out and I'm nearly done with it.
So... Even though it's at a slightly higher position than normal height and along with the terra shocks it's still really stable on the road.. Even on the motorway... I may rip the system out and go for springs... Yes I know, sacrilege... But I am fed up of the stupidity and to the best of my efforts I'm fed up with it. Calibration after calibration.... One in ten times it's settled and most of time it's starting to ruin the time I spend in it
Or... Actually I should rig a switch to the relay
when it's loaded up I can trigger it to level out and then shut it down again
when it's loaded up I can trigger it to level out and then shut it down again
Moving the pump head towards the block brings it closer to its ideal point if the chains are stretched. You shouldn't move it further away from the block as this will completely upset the setting point and a lot of faffing will follow.
Slacken the pump bolts and tap towards the block a little at a time and tighten.
Loosen the injector pipes on the pump and re-tighten.
Then warm up the engine and check the result and adjust if needed.
A bit hit and miss but I've landed three different engines doing this within 1% of idΓ©al. Plus @Datatek has a rule of thumb' technique
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I take it you have done the white connectors at the foot of the A post? Symptoms suggest a bad connection somewhere, pinning it down may be time consuming. Have you tried a different ECU? Faulty driver packs in my experience just throw random faults but do not cause height changes other than the ones that come with an EAS fault either rising to wade height or dropping onto the bump stops.So it's come to this and serious about it... But.... The eas is starting to wind me up.
All heights set in good fashion and relate to their respective boundaries.
A good powerfull pump,
A rebuilt block with no leaks,
Three driver packs tried, (2 repaired and one in original state).
No faults,
Recent sensors,
No leaking anywhere on the car!!!
So, at motorway height the front lifts and drop considerably,
At normal height the rear lifts and drops considerably.
Maybe one trip out in ten it's settled but now it's starting to grate on me to the point where I've pulled the relay. For over a week it's sat at the same height it was when I pulled the relay and hasn't budged..
It's been a relief not to hear the pump killing itself every 5 seconds.. A 300β¬ pump wearing out and I'm nearly done with it.
So... Even though it's at a slightly higher position than normal height and along with the terra shocks it's still really stable on the road.. Even on the motorway... I may rip the system out and go for springs... Yes I know, sacrilege... But I am fed up of the stupidity and to the best of my efforts I'm fed up with it. Calibration after calibration.... One in ten times it's settled and most of time it's starting to ruin the time I spend in it
It always stays at its switched height, I'll check the ecu and see if it's a problem. Thanks Keith
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Used Keiths method with the last pump last year and got it to 52% so was 99% sure tapping to the block sorted modulation and not the other way roundMoving the pump head towards the block brings it closer to its ideal point if the chains are stretched. You shouldn't move it further away from the block as this will completely upset the setting point and a lot of faffing will follow.
Slacken the pump bolts and tap towards the block a little at a time and tighten.
Loosen the injector pipes on the pump and re-tighten.
Then warm up the engine and check the result and adjust if needed.
A bit hit and miss but I've landed three different engines doing this within 1% of idΓ©al. Plus @Datatek has a rule of thumb' technique
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
Slowly getting back on the old P38 still battling the eas system new height sensors on the way as it seems the rears are well out, not accepting calibration.
ABS tracs fault which is according to the nanocom is the pressure switch, debating whether to get an entire pump or just the switch..
New accumulator sphere fitted.
Oil change done.
Chassis stripped and painted..
Really want/need it on the road soon..
ABS tracs fault which is according to the nanocom is the pressure switch, debating whether to get an entire pump or just the switch..
New accumulator sphere fitted.
Oil change done.
Chassis stripped and painted..
Really want/need it on the road soon..
stuu
Well-Known Member
Broke its alternator well its technically not even broken its just chucking 18v out, thats the 2nd weekend iv had to leave it at my unit now in 2 and a half years, Its getting unreliable 
got a denso one on order as a genuine is just too expensive atm,
Also with my random starter motors time of the month when itl click then not act up again for weeks on end,
my girlfriend actually spoke with one of my closest mates and landy specialist and ordered me a new starter as a surprise how ace is that
got a denso one on order as a genuine is just too expensive atm, Also with my random starter motors time of the month when itl click then not act up again for weeks on end,
my girlfriend actually spoke with one of my closest mates and landy specialist and ordered me a new starter as a surprise how ace is that
Datatek
Well-Known Member
18 volts from the alternator is either a bad earth or a duff regulator.Broke its alternator well its technically not even broken its just chucking 18v out, thats the 2nd weekend iv had to leave it at my unit now in 2 and a half years, Its getting unreliable
Also with my random starter motors time of the month when itl click then not act up again for weeks on end,
my girlfriend actually spoke with one of my closest mates and landy specialist and ordered me a new starter as a surprise how ace is that
