Benjypo
Member
Sounds like a pretty busy day!
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stuu
Well-Known Member
I would guess its like the early cars coolant only circulates heater core and the pre heater then when the vehicle is started a control valve opens and it changes over to use the main coolant system,
Edited after rereading StuStrong's post. This is the valve you are talking about I guess but I'd be surprised at that design as I was under the impression that the FBH should shut off around 70ºc too avoid opening the thermostat and thus losing heat out of the main radiator. That being the case it should be heating the main cooling system and after all, that is the primary point of the FBH, cabin heat or pre-heat is a plus. If my tone seems to be of jealousy, you're right it is as my FBH still isn't fixed but I have bigger issues currently
Original post:
Back when I was trying to resolve my heater issues I replaced the valve that controls them (down the side of the engine on the inner wing) but it didn't fix it. Then I found there was another behind the engine on the bulkhead that seems to control the flow of coolant to the FBH. That was in a similar state inside (albeit seized on mine). I wonder if that could be your issue? Perhaps sticking and either not warming all of the coolant or allowing it to flow too fast. Just an idea and they are a cheap part to fix as well as being much easier than the main one to change.
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seized sounds likely, i mean things dont get maintained, only fixed once brokedEdited after rereading StuStrong's post. This is the valve you are talking about I guess but I'd be surprised at that design as I was under the impression that the FBH should shut off around 70ºc too avoid opening the thermostat and thus losing heat out of the main radiator. That being the case it should be heating the main cooling system and after all, that is the primary point of the FBH, cabin heat or pre-heat is a plus. If my tone seems to be of jealousy, you're right it is as my FBH still isn't fixed but I have bigger issues currently
Original post:
Back when I was trying to resolve my heater issues I replaced the valve that controls them (down the side of the engine on the inner wing) but it didn't fix it. Then I found there was another behind the engine on the bulkhead that seems to control the flow of coolant to the FBH. That was in a similar state inside (albeit seized on mine). I wonder if that could be your issue? Perhaps sticking and either not warming all of the coolant or allowing it to flow too fast. Just an idea and they are a cheap part to fix as well as being much easier than the main one to change.
but i guess could also be related to the hevac not working properly.. thinking about pulling the battery and seeing if it resets anything.. nothing to lose there
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
I've replaced that exchange valve as @Blob describes
I just had no warmth in the cab at all, never tried the fbh before i changed the valve as it was still warm weather
Yours was blowing warm wasn't it the other day
Auto doesn't work, if i use the remote pre heater, car goes cold again once i start the engine
Yes but the cap on the Rangie is different and has to hold pressure.
Had a play this morning and 2 nails in a cup of coolant work well with a buzzer except it buzzes when there's coolant rather than a lack. So, just need to reverse that and a relay should do that. I'm even wondering if there's a spare bulb in the instrument cluster, maybe one used for the v8 but not on the oil burner!
Thinking about it, I only want to know when coolant is in there so should be able to feed 2 screws in from the top of the tank. I'm building up the courage to have a go with the one on the scrapper.
Edited after rereading StuStrong's post. This is the valve you are talking about I guess but I'd be surprised at that design as I was under the impression that the FBH should shut off around 70ºc too avoid opening the thermostat and thus losing heat out of the main radiator. That being the case it should be heating the main cooling system and after all, that is the primary point of the FBH, cabin heat or pre-heat is a plus. If my tone seems to be of jealousy, you're right it is as my FBH still isn't fixed but I have bigger issues currently
Original post:
Back when I was trying to resolve my heater issues I replaced the valve that controls them (down the side of the engine on the inner wing) but it didn't fix it. Then I found there was another behind the engine on the bulkhead that seems to control the flow of coolant to the FBH. That was in a similar state inside (albeit seized on mine). I wonder if that could be your issue? Perhaps sticking and either not warming all of the coolant or allowing it to flow too fast. Just an idea and they are a cheap part to fix as well as being much easier than the main one to change.
I suspect there's a seal where the solenoid connects and if that fails it will hydrolock the solenoid. It will just move in and out depending on power applied.
Yes, if it is anything like the Jag then it diverts water to the cab or rad as required.
None in the brake reservoir but the coolant expansion tank is under pressure.
Was driving home to Langley from Ferndown today & EAS started flashing high mode. Caught it in time & pressed down before it faulted. Later on way to Bedford I missed the flashing led & it went into fault mode just before Dunstable. Nanocom was in other P38 so no way to reset it .
Turned back home & managed to reach M25/A404 junction before hitting bump stops, so bouncy ride back to Langley.
Got Nanocom out of other P38 & reset EAS. It decided to raise the left side only !! Nanocom was reporting rear solenoids only, so it's wierd the FL & RL pumped up. In the end I levelled it using my manual control box, after which the EAS ECU managed to get it correct !!
Moral or the story . . . . .remember to put my Nanocom in the car I'm using that day !!
.Turned back home & managed to reach M25/A404 junction before hitting bump stops, so bouncy ride back to Langley.
Got Nanocom out of other P38 & reset EAS. It decided to raise the left side only !! Nanocom was reporting rear solenoids only, so it's wierd the FL & RL pumped up. In the end I levelled it using my manual control box, after which the EAS ECU managed to get it correct !!
Moral or the story . . . . .remember to put my Nanocom in the car I'm using that day !!
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D1Nut
Well-Known Member
I have the two screw system - stainless - about a half inch apart for my D1 coolant level linked to my madman system
no issues for over ten years now
i was thinking that striping the cap system apart might work as the float and electrics are all present
Wazzajnr
Well-Known Member
Does your gauge stay stable in one position? I've noticed mine is all over the place but I also get fairly frequent faulty wiring codes for the viscous fan so my guess is that is sending temps all over the place.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Living where I do, mine are like that all the time in winter.P38 trying to live up to its name after yesterdays jaunt down narrow lanes and across 2 fields to get as near as possible to the sea. Bit of cleaning to do tomorrow for the butler
Isn't the FBH a parking heater not an engine pre heater. Mine keeps the cabin warm even when the engine temp is still showing cold after I've set off.
Reading this I'd say the FBH should only heat the cabin until the engine is up to temp.
From Rave
On Td6 models, the FBH also boosts the heater coolant temperature while the engine is running at low ambient air and
engine coolant temperatures, to maintain heater performance at an acceptable level.
From Rave
On Td6 models, the FBH also boosts the heater coolant temperature while the engine is running at low ambient air and
engine coolant temperatures, to maintain heater performance at an acceptable level.
