doriz
Well-Known Member
It is what it is @kermit_rr
i wonder if it's been mapped for more power? Hence using more fuel? Not a bad thing i guess
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
I need to do intake manifold/cam cover gaskets 
very oily along bottom of both
very oily along bottom of both
Wazzajnr
Well-Known Member
What do you get?
I've worked out the dash display is around 20% optimistic, but doing brim to brim when I've done lots of motorway miles, it works out 22-23mpg if doing 70 mph
If i drop to 55-60mph which is as low as you can go in 8th, then I've started seeing the dash show 33-35mpg.. or 27-28 real
Wazzajnr
Well-Known Member
That does sound low.
Although I haven't driven my 3.6 much being hospitalised the day after I picked it up, I do know that the trip mileage average over the last 4k miles is showing as 24mpg and the guy mainly did local road stuff, no major motorway mileage.
When I had my 4.4 ajv8 I used to drive at 80mph on cruise everywhere possible and that used to return around 22mpg at that speed. Even my p38 could manage just above 20mpg on motorway with cruise at 80.
I would be expecting at least 30mpg on a run at 80mph or very close to it at least.
At 80 i reckon it would drop to 20 at best, maybe less
I know it doesn't mean much, but 'trip B' hasn't been reset since the last oil change i did.. so showed about 8000 miles and average of 28.3, which works about to 22.6 assuming the 20% error is still true
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Flossie
Well-Known Member
Bin doing some reading here there and everywhere and I'm a bit confused, perhaps you can advise are kid.
I've read there are a couple of types 18mm and 19mm stubs and also plastic and brass ones available just from reading Google posts, I haven't looked at sellers offerings as yet.
Normally I would take the dash out although I've not done it before but the weather and time is against me.
Is it possible to fit the nissan without removing the dash TOP.
I've had everything out up to and including the eas switch panel and the binnacle as well as the knee panels and the A post panels before and they hold no fear. So would it be possible ,with a bit more work, to change the matrix at that point? Would that then involve some metal cutting from what I understand?
OR once I've removed the panels mentioned above, it's not much more work to take out the glove box etc and remove the dash completely?
I've got the added hassle that I've got no central heating in the house due to starting a big lounge refurb which I've got to get done for Xmas or I'm a dead man and I'm off abroad for a week this Saturday coming.
So, in a nutshell
1- matrix leaking
2- engine won't start
3- got no central heating
4- lounge like a bomb site
5- weather is poor
6- no room in me garage
7- bodge the matrix replacement?
8- do the matrix job properly because its not too bad or too long a job really, I'm just over worrying.
No pressure then.Bin doing some reading here there and everywhere and I'm a bit confused, perhaps you can advise are kid.
I've read there are a couple of types 18mm and 19mm stubs and also plastic and brass ones available just from reading Google posts, I haven't looked at sellers offerings as yet.
Normally I would take the dash out although I've not done it before but the weather and time is against me.
Is it possible to fit the nissan without removing the dash TOP.
I've had everything out up to and including the eas switch panel and the binnacle as well as the knee panels and the A post panels before and they hold no fear. So would it be possible ,with a bit more work, to change the matrix at that point? Would that then involve some metal cutting from what I understand?
OR once I've removed the panels mentioned above, it's not much more work to take out the glove box etc and remove the dash completely?
I've got the added hassle that I've got no central heating in the house due to starting a big lounge refurb which I've got to get done for Xmas or I'm a dead man and I'm off abroad for a week this Saturday coming.
So, in a nutshell
1- matrix leaking
2- engine won't start
3- got no central heating
4- lounge like a bomb site
5- weather is poor
6- no room in me garage
7- bodge the matrix replacement?
8- do the matrix job properly because its not too bad or too long a job really, I'm just over worrying.
I bypassed matrix at curtain wall under bonnet so I could keep using the old gal until I got round to it. Bought one of those plug in heater blower things for a bit of warm air, and it was a bit.
I was fortunate changing mine as a previous owner had been in before and removed a lot of the ducting etc so it was just a matter of cutting the frame and sliding out old matrix and in with the new. Didn't mess struggling with O ring retaining screw as it was going just used a drill round the plastic til it was free. Have a look at PaulP38A.com for some ideas.
Well its official as from today I am on state pension so that means I'm an OAP. Time for a new chapter in life to begin 
TITCH SANDERS
Active Member
I worked all underneath the pedals etc Flossie, yes, a bit of cutting of ducting etc..NOT an easy job I didn't think at all..but feel happier with the Nissen matrix in that I fitted new heater pipes up through the bulkhead too.. I see it as a better fitment than O rings.. which inevitably won't like the heat/cold over time...
Titch
Titch
Flossie
Well-Known Member
I've already cut the ducting behind the binnacle when I did the O rings last summer. So, clocks, side cheeks, switch pack, gear lever, radio, hvac, eas switch panel, drivers side knee panel and out it'll come after cutting something obvious?
Oh, and the cut ducting pulled out to.
Flossie
Well-Known Member
Still a bit unclear Titch. Can you give me a call when you're able?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I did the O rings on mine 12 years ago. I used slightly thicker O rings and they were given a thin smear of silicone grease. It's been fine ever since although I might have put the mockers on it now. Off to get the aircon recharged this afternoon.
newb
Well-Known Member
In my experience of remapping, the fuel economy improves as well. But you never know how it was done, so saying that, have you given it a thought of remapping again, taking it in yourself? Could be a better or different job. Sorry, cannot provide any advice re the mechanical side. Looking around, low 20 mpgs for cruising at 60-70 for your engine does sound very low.
yes i've been thinking about that idea.. at least seeing if someone can tell me whats been done and/or when
the p38 was 20mpg so its not the mpg i'm too worried about.. just a machine running at what seems to be well out of spec cant be great long term
newb
Well-Known Member
Agree, legitimate concern to me.
The old girl didn't start as quickly as usual a few days ok and only fired on a couple or 3 cylinders before the rest chimed in 5 seconds later. Lots of smoke then ran as normal. Today I got the missis to crank whilst I observed the clear line to the fip, no bubbles but no firing either, eventually got it going but it was close, suspect glowplugs, the light on the dash is working so can I assume the plugs are getting power? I'm on my own for the next 2 days so difficult ,but not impossibe, to check with a dmm to confirm. Whilst under the bonnet, noticed header tank was almost empty, it was fine last time I looked, 4 or 5 days ago. Couldn't see any obvious leaks so with a heavy heart I felt the drivers side carpet...soggy.
Only did the O rings last year so probably the matrix fecking fecker..
Assume nothing! Needs at least 3 cyclinders firing in a row to get going. Beru plugs are best. I cannot recall when I got mibe now but it still starts with the slightest bit of cranking.
Bin doing some reading here there and everywhere and I'm a bit confused, perhaps you can advise are kid.
I've read there are a couple of types 18mm and 19mm stubs and also plastic and brass ones available just from reading Google posts, I haven't looked at sellers offerings as yet.
Normally I would take the dash out although I've not done it before but the weather and time is against me.
Is it possible to fit the nissan without removing the dash TOP.
I've had everything out up to and including the eas switch panel and the binnacle as well as the knee panels and the A post panels before and they hold no fear. So would it be possible ,with a bit more work, to change the matrix at that point? Would that then involve some metal cutting from what I understand?
OR once I've removed the panels mentioned above, it's not much more work to take out the glove box etc and remove the dash completely?
I've got the added hassle that I've got no central heating in the house due to starting a big lounge refurb which I've got to get done for Xmas or I'm a dead man and I'm off abroad for a week this Saturday coming.
So, in a nutshell
1- matrix leaking
2- engine won't start
3- got no central heating
4- lounge like a bomb site
5- weather is poor
6- no room in me garage
7- bodge the matrix replacement?
8- do the matrix job properly because its not too bad or too long a job really, I'm just over worrying.
I don't believe you can get it out on the RHD model. LHD it might be possible. Having done it with the dash out I would say it is worth taking it out. I found several screws missing that hokd the dash in place which is why it was starting to warp. Fixed all sorts of stuff so it was more secure while I was in there. I put the bigger Nissens matrix in and only had to skim the central rib with a knife to make it fit.
