Never noticed any difference, but then we dont really do loads of short journeys and often get a long enough run for it to do its business if it needs too.
Have only looked at it a couple of times with diagnostics and cant remember numbers.
Never noticed any smoke out the back, but then I tend to look out the front if I boot it
.As long as you are not tootling around town all the time and get it hot enough during normal driving it will do a little bit all the time, so may not think it needs to do a proper "afterburn" for ages
.Cant find any actual numbers of soot/grams (yet
).J
Cheers i got the usual landy paranoia when i saw zero remaining (presume that's a percentage) but maybe the l322 doesn't give/know that valueNever noticed any difference, but then we dont really do loads of short journeys and often get a long enough run for it to do its business if it needs too.
Have only looked at it a couple of times with diagnostics and cant remember numbers.
Never noticed any smoke out the back, but then I tend to look out the front if I boot it
As long as you are not tootling around town all the time and get it hot enough during normal driving it will do a little bit all the time, so may not think it needs to do a proper "afterburn" for ages
Cant find any actual numbers of soot/grams (yet
J
Dont know what the numbers mean. But zero remaining is a bit wierd must admit.
Will plug in soon and see what GAP says.
Got this but no numbers given. But you can see that normal driving will get it hot enough to keep it "balanced"
.J
managed to do a screenshot for the actual wording...Dont know what the numbers mean. But zero remaining is a bit wierd must admit.
Will plug in soon and see what GAP says.
Got this but no numbers given. But you can see that normal driving will get it hot enough to keep it "balanced"
J
guilty on that one
took it out, spent 1/2 day trying to get it apart as it was rusted solid. cleaned it up as best i could, put it back, spend the rest of the day trying to reattach the power having already shut the tailgate!
went to order a new spring, couldnt find one for less than the price of a new switch, gave up in disgust and put on the back boiler
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Make your own spring from piano wire obtainable from any model aircraft shop. Or on the P38 do my mod with a much better switch assembly at a much lower cost.guilty on that one
took it out, spent 1/2 day trying to get it apart as it was rusted solid. cleaned it up as best i could, put it back, spend the rest of the day trying to reattach the power having already shut the tailgate!
went to order a new spring, couldnt find one for less than the price of a new switch, gave up in disgust and put on the back boiler
I didn't know you had a mod for that
It's data, he's mods for loads of stuffI didn't know you had a mod for that
Khemitude
Well-Known Member
Fair enough, figured you might have had it out since the rest weren't there plus the plastic screw bits that hold the panel on will still undone, saw some of the springs on ebay for £20 but theres a chap on facebook that does them and the oring for £15 so I figured may as well just buy one from him than try to make one and get the wrong amount of wraps and what not, works lovely now.guilty on that one
took it out, spent 1/2 day trying to get it apart as it was rusted solid. cleaned it up as best i could, put it back, spend the rest of the day trying to reattach the power having already shut the tailgate!
went to order a new spring, couldnt find one for less than the price of a new switch, gave up in disgust and put on the back boiler
Khemitude
Well-Known Member
Replaced the little wing indicators as one had crazing on the plastic and the other was so faded and probably old that when I went to take it off it fell apart at the slightest touch.
Tightened up the front passenger armrest as it was really wobbly. Tried to tighten up the drivers one and the bolt snapped. So need to get a bolt extractor and find a suitable bolt for replacement anyone know the size? Saves having to take the passenger one out.
Got her cleaned so she’s looking a decent bit better but they missed most of the green on the bit of the front bumper that sits under the headlights and grill.
As for getting her into park even with xcp when cold it goes in easily as well as changing between all the gears are really easy however when it’s all warmed up it seems to struggle to go to park and the gear selector is noticeably stiffer.
Tightened up the front passenger armrest as it was really wobbly. Tried to tighten up the drivers one and the bolt snapped. So need to get a bolt extractor and find a suitable bolt for replacement anyone know the size? Saves having to take the passenger one out.
Got her cleaned so she’s looking a decent bit better but they missed most of the green on the bit of the front bumper that sits under the headlights and grill.
As for getting her into park even with xcp when cold it goes in easily as well as changing between all the gears are really easy however when it’s all warmed up it seems to struggle to go to park and the gear selector is noticeably stiffer.
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Scotiawhiskers
Well-Known Member
Took him to the garden centre and BILs, then back home. Half way out, just after a sharp right under power we got beeps, all the EAS lights and the dash symbol but no message. Spent a couple of miles listing noticeably to starboard, then he levelled out but seemed a bit taller. Cycled the ignition at the lights to no effect.
Fished the Nanocom out at the garden centre as he was on stilts, it reported a pressure switch fault, but it cleared OK and he ran faultlessly after that.
Also brought a chunky glass top table back from BILs after much rummaging in the garden shed to get it out, now I have a somewhat duff shoulder and wrist.
Fuelled him the other day, For lots of 15 mile stop start and 1 mile urban runs, with a few longer slow country lanes and one 40 mile each way mainly motorway trip we're quite happy with 16.6mpg.
Fished the Nanocom out at the garden centre as he was on stilts, it reported a pressure switch fault, but it cleared OK and he ran faultlessly after that.
Also brought a chunky glass top table back from BILs after much rummaging in the garden shed to get it out, now I have a somewhat duff shoulder and wrist.
Fuelled him the other day, For lots of 15 mile stop start and 1 mile urban runs, with a few longer slow country lanes and one 40 mile each way mainly motorway trip we're quite happy with 16.6mpg.
rich28uk
Well-Known Member
Gave mine a wash inside and out then let my mate borrow it for the day as I had been asked to repair his ranger pick up, said it had no brake fluid so though pressure bleed it job done.. upon collection noticed rear wheel drenched in brake fluid, drums on them so knackered wheel cylinder, changed both sides all good. Wouldn’t have expected it to fail at 5 year old / 25,000 miles.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Same cylinders on my Transit i suspect, just changed them for the second time in my 13 years of ownership, it doesn't do a lot of miles
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Loose connections in the connectors in the EAS box or the driver pack is failing. Could also be a height sensor but usually causes the slow 35mph message.
rich28uk
Well-Known Member
Must be Ford using poor parts, even though this ranger is £35,000 worth of pick up can definitely see it’s built to a low price, quality and fit of the trim, Ford badge on tailgate not straight and not tight to the tailgate, chassis corrosion worse than a Landy! Vinyl effect leather on seats split all this and it’s 2017, what’s it going to be like in 15 years or so and 150,000 miles… scrap is my guess.
People call landys and Rangies but there’s more of them at 15 year old + knocking about than a lot of other stuff.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I think the brake cylinders are made of pre rusted Chinesium
The boots on the track rod ends seem to only last 2 years.
Khemitude
Well-Known Member
That why they say FORD stand for Fix or Repair Daily. Had to change a Ball joint on my BIL's MK7 transit a few years ago and because the ball joint is and interreference fit into the hub itself its took days and massive polls to beat out. had to do something the otherside aswell and the captive nut broke free that's hidden in the chassis in the end, He ended up taking it somewhere for them to cut put a peice out so they could get a spanner on that end to hold the captive and then weld back up when done.
rich28uk
Well-Known Member
Sounds a right mission. Just found source of a knock on my RR, one of the lower arms that the height sensor fixes on to (front drivers L332) looks to be easy access for bolts on each end. Better than having to cut holes out! Clearly been designed by someone who’s never worked on a car in there life.
