Drove it to work for the second time this week and hoped the rear wiper would fix itself, no chance.:(
On the plus side while reading the Rave manual I've discovered you can change the rear intermittent wipe speed..........once I get the bastid working again :)
 
Gord Wedman said:
Discs looked OK. I would swear it was the center steady bearing on the rear driveshaft but could not get a wiggle out of anything. Will see what happens after re-balance of the wheels. One wheel weight fell off when we rotated the wheels so I would not be surprised to find others missing. Thanks for the suggestions.
Click to expand...

Re-balancing the wheels did not correct the problem. Went for a drive later in the day and the vibration seemed almost gone and at 120kph I felt nothing. Had dinner and went for another drive and vibration back again. Very strange. Think I will crawl under the car one more time before I visit the dealer.
 
Gord Wedman said:
Re-balancing the wheels did not correct the problem. Went for a drive later in the day and the vibration seemed almost gone and at 120kph I felt nothing. Had dinner and went for another drive and vibration back again. Very strange. Think I will crawl under the car one more time before I visit the dealer.
Click to expand...
Sounds like a UJ
 
Had to administer the EAS kicker :rolleyes:. Back in the game now. Bought a new EAS valve block and driver to rebuild as part of the maintenance programme.
 
Finally sold the 20 inch wheels, they'll be heading onto a L322 after a dark refurb. Now to hope for dry but not too hot weekend weather to get the front airbags changed and the underside cleaned and preserved ready for MOT.
 
Track rod ends since it was the mot advisorys, and currently in for alightment, pick up rental trailer load up and set off down south about 830 tonight,
 
Looks like my top brake light doesn't work either
Snapchat-1028716993.jpg
 
Changed A/C condenser today. Would have been a 2 hour job if not the corroded pins between the tubes and the condenser itself... so it was 4 hours. To give myself more space to pry them apart I just cut off the condenser off and the tubes had more wiggle on them to get knocking.

Would recommend this as the guide https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic25781.html I would only add that for my petrol, instead of the filter I have the the coolant reservoir on the way. I did loosen it by removing the bottom two bolts holding it in place and disconnecting one of the top tubes. It gave just enough of space to rotate 5mm at a time :mad: You can give yourself more space, but then you would need to drain and then refill it after...

Gassed it up and seems to be holding the pressure, nice and very cold air blows now :) :cool:
 
dubbleRR said:
You might be better jacking up one wheel n taking the strain off the prop n shafts thing might loosen up :eek:;)
Click to expand...
Yesterday I had 3 wheels off the ground and the trans in neutral. Still could not get much of a wiggle out of anything. I think I am going to change the center steady bearing as it is fairly cheap. $57US and from what I have read taking out the drive shaft is not too difficult. I will have to purchase a second set of ramps but they could always be useful in the future. There is also a U joint before the steady bearing and I may change that as well. I will report back after all done.
 
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