GOT MY P38 BACK!
After more than a year away she has returned. ‘Upgraded’ - ish. Added a 2” body lift, new air bags, new EAS control unit, new EAS pump, new manual air valve kit for emergencies, new EAS valve block, and monster tyres!

As always though, things have not gone smoothly. She left the workshop in Wales with everything in perfect working order, but on the way down to Dorset she flatlined, EAS fault dropped her to the bump stops. New ‘emergency’ manual air override proved invaluable immediately. At the garage after pumping her up again - No ignition, completely dead. A booster pack got her going again then a brake calliper fell off and locked her up. She arrived home on a recovery truck again. This is her default method of getting home!

The brake callipers mashed the CV Boot too, so we had to replace the cv boot and re-affix the brake callipers to get her going again.

Did some lanes on Saturday and she was great in the lanes, but the big tyres seem to be affecting the gear changing and she holds on to a lower gear for too long on the road stretches and can overheat. Wasn’t expecting that. @Datatek - feel free to say ‘I told you so’ about pretty much any of the unanticipated side effects of the over large tyres!
Then the gear box over heated because the bracket holding the transmission fluid rad’ in place broke and the cooling fan wasn’t working.

So all I have to do now is fix the EAS again, fix the transmission rad bracket, fix the transmission rad fan and work out how to stop her overheating at 40 mph on normal roads.

Life is back to normal.
 
Grrrrrr said:
I drove a 1L Fiesta with permanent battery (hydrid) drive. Very odd as the torque is instant and constant all the way up the revs. Really nippy little thing and 51mpg. If I was looking for a little hatchback I would seriously consider one.
Click to expand...
The torque on ev’s is amazing. We just have an old Nissan Leaf, 2014 model, still drives like new. Away from the lights she is a rocket, but does not have the power to stay ahead of the boy racers once you get to 40mph.
 
Salisbury Nick said:
The torque on ev’s is amazing. We just have an old Nissan Leaf, 2014 model, still drives like new. Away from the lights she is a rocket, but does not have the power to stay ahead of the boy racers once you get to 40mph.
Click to expand...
Also, even with current electric prices, still only costs 4p a mile to run!
 
Salisbury Nick said:
Except of course, not only won’t that happen, but if it did it would be a good thing. Ev’s are effectively mobile batteries. with more volatile and intermittent power from renewables what we need is millions of batteries about the size of an ev battery plugged in and ready to be charged and partially discharged when needed. They are not the problem, they are part of the solution. (I’m not being political here, i drive 2 RR’s and an EV and nothing will make me give up the RR’s!)
Click to expand...
Lets have more volatile unrecyclable batteries. One of the major forest fires over here was started, according to the news by an EV.
Salisbury Nick said:
Also, even with current electric prices, still only costs 4p a mile to run!
Click to expand...
4p a mile? don't worry, the politicians will soon fix that as they strive to recover the revenue lost from petrol & diesel sales. According to one road test over here, the cost per mile for a BEV on a long motorway trip turned out to be more than the same journey in a Renault Twingo. autoroute chargers are expensive and of course the trip took a lot longer.
 
While I was dikking about trying to work out what I had running in the way of old EAS punps I fried the 30A fuse that also feeds the startwr motor. Bl**dy ridiculous having that on the same circuit. I'm going to put an inline fuse in the EAS box on the pump cable (green feed wire). Anyone know what the fuse rating value is on the later cars where they separated the EAS pump off? Would I get away with 10A?
 
Grrrrrr said:
While I was dikking about trying to work out what I had running in the way of old EAS punps I fried the 30A fuse that also feeds the startwr motor. Bl**dy ridiculous having that on the same circuit. I'm going to put an inline fuse in the EAS box on the pump cable (green feed wire). Anyone know what the fuse rating value is on the later cars where they separated the EAS pump off? Would I get away with 10A?
Click to expand...

I hope it isn't the one I put on it acting up as the missus has just gone out in it and it has started to **** it down. The last thing I need at the moment is a rescue mission in the rain.
 
Salisbury Nick said:
GOT MY P38 BACK!
After more than a year away she has returned. ‘Upgraded’ - ish. Added a 2” body lift, new air bags, new EAS control unit, new EAS pump, new manual air valve kit for emergencies, new EAS valve block, and monster tyres!

As always though, things have not gone smoothly. She left the workshop in Wales with everything in perfect working order, but on the way down to Dorset she flatlined, EAS fault dropped her to the bump stops. New ‘emergency’ manual air override proved invaluable immediately. At the garage after pumping her up again - No ignition, completely dead. A booster pack got her going again then a brake calliper fell off and locked her up. She arrived home on a recovery truck again. This is her default method of getting home!

The brake callipers mashed the CV Boot too, so we had to replace the cv boot and re-affix the brake callipers to get her going again.

Did some lanes on Saturday and she was great in the lanes, but the big tyres seem to be affecting the gear changing and she holds on to a lower gear for too long on the road stretches and can overheat. Wasn’t expecting that. @Datatek - feel free to say ‘I told you so’ about pretty much any of the unanticipated side effects of the over large tyres!
Then the gear box over heated because the bracket holding the transmission fluid rad’ in place broke and the cooling fan wasn’t working.

So all I have to do now is fix the EAS again, fix the transmission rad bracket, fix the transmission rad fan and work out how to stop her overheating at 40 mph on normal roads.

Life is back to normal.
Click to expand...

Lifted but still on air? Arnott 3 bags? Height sensors extended? Brake flexis extended? ABS sensors might be OK if you unclip and maybe feed through a springy thing to keep away from anything they might catch.

Gearbox cooler - I thought you moved that out the way before? Was it near the wing you put it?

Bigger tyres could certainly catch the wheel liner. @300bhp/ton played with different tyres. Will mess with the speedo and will affect gearing but surprised the box is that hassled. Could always put a higher ratio diff in if your main objective is off-road and you don't do motorways.
 
Grrrrrr said:
While I was dikking about trying to work out what I had running in the way of old EAS punps I fried the 30A fuse that also feeds the startwr motor. Bl**dy ridiculous having that on the same circuit. I'm going to put an inline fuse in the EAS box on the pump cable (green feed wire). Anyone know what the fuse rating value is on the later cars where they separated the EAS pump off? Would I get away with 10A?
Click to expand...
Just had a look at mine, 2001 and it's 10amp.
 
Bigger tyres gear it down noticeably but not really an issue with manual box you just get used to it. all the gears seem longer (especially 1st) so you put your foot down to over come it but with the bigger diameter & plenty of torque once your up to speed can toddle along at quite a pace. You’ll notice around speed cameras your slowly pushing past the crowd....slow down! Your speedos off not theirs
Ofcourse with an auto you don’t get to choose what band of power you want.

MOT is in few weeks so thought I’d grease the props have a look underneath as I’ve been driving it all year giving it less attention than usual.
Not looking good :oops:
I’ve have the balljoints and axle seals ready to do, tyres (32s) will need replacing, tie rod end knackered , found my fuel leak 100% no4 inj is leaking at the body :mad: and one of the terrafirma rear shocks has let go. Should have a spare somewhere as I fitted them July 2019 when the other side snapped exactly same way but be damned if I can find it.
On top of this my insurance premium this year has increased by a 1/3! :confused:
Can’t see me bodgering through this one :(
 
Grrrrrr said:
I drove a 1L Fiesta with permanent battery (hydrid) drive. Very odd as the torque is instant and constant all the way up the revs. Really nippy little thing and 51mpg. If I was looking for a little hatchback I would seriously consider one.
Click to expand...
We had a pair of Honda Civic 1st gen hybrids on the works pool about 15 years ago. Regenerative braking, only a 1.3 petrol engine but that revved to around 7,000 and with the battery assist it felt more like a 2 litre. Handled sweetly and felt like a sports car the way it went. But did 70mpg. They were saloons, with the battery between the boot and the rear seat, so warm in the rear though. If they had done an estate version with the battery somewhere else I would have seriously considered it.
 
Changed a tail light bulb
Adjusted handbrake shoes
Still need too sort the handbrake warning light as it doesn't work at all
Checked oil and coolant
Ready for Mot on Monday,
 
Got the auto electrician round to fit in drivers seat I’ve tried to do myself 3 or 4 times in and out of car he soldered few wires up checked connectors to becm and hey presto it works better paying someone that knows what they doing next job take all the front trim off again and try and find this poxy leak because carpet was wet not antifreeze or matrix side down right side and middle of carpet
 
Grrrrrr said:
Lifted but still on air? Arnott 3 bags? Height sensors extended? Brake flexis extended? ABS sensors might be OK if you unclip and maybe feed through a springy thing to keep away from anything they might catch.

Gearbox cooler - I thought you moved that out the way before? Was it near the wing you put it?

Bigger tyres could certainly catch the wheel liner. @300bhp/ton played with different tyres. Will mess with the speedo and will affect gearing but surprised the box is that hassled. Could always put a higher ratio diff in if your main objective is off-road and you don't do motorways.
Click to expand...

Yes, still on air. Just a body lift, looks awful, but hopefully effective. See here.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/26450892...JFN7g0FQrC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I’ll let you know when I have done a few lanes.
I am having some issues with the wheel liners. Working on understanding that properly.

I have moved the gear box rad to the back of the engine bay, where it does not get much airflow and what it does get is warm! We had to fabricate a bracket and my mates first time welding task has turned out not to be as effective as he first thought!

Bang on with the speedo issues, quite a big change there - under reports by about a 3rd - so if the speedo says 30 i’m doing 40! I think.

It’s early days yet, not all gone smoothly and definitely got some issues to resolve.

I might do a separate post on it.

Nick
 
Datatek said:
Lets have more volatile unrecyclable batteries. One of the major forest fires over here was started, according to the news by an EV.

4p a mile? don't worry, the politicians will soon fix that as they strive to recover the revenue lost from petrol & diesel sales. According to one road test over here, the cost per mile for a BEV on a long motorway trip turned out to be more than the same journey in a Renault Twingo. autoroute chargers are expensive and of course the trip took a lot longer.
Click to expand...
I’m curious about the fire - how did it do that?
By far the majority of car journey are short. If you use an EV for those then take your Rangey for the long journey - that’s what I do. Or the missus’s Lexus…
If you win on the roundabouts but lose on the swings - but do far more roundabouts than swings - then you still win. Also, the key reason for the level of forest fires currently raging is climate change - and a third of that is caused by transport emissions, so we can carry on choosing fossil fuels, but then we can’t whinge about forest fires.
Just saying that feels like like the LZ equivalent of lighting a camp fire in the Gironde!
 
Salisbury Nick said:
I’m curious about the fire - how did it do that?
By far the majority of car journey are short. If you use an EV for those then take your Rangey for the long journey - that’s what I do. Or the missus’s Lexus…
If you win on the roundabouts but lose on the swings - but do far more roundabouts than swings - then you still win. Also, the key reason for the level of forest fires currently raging is climate change - and a third of that is caused by transport emissions, so we can carry on choosing fossil fuels, but then we can’t whinge about forest fires.
Just saying that feels like like the LZ equivalent of lighting a camp fire in the Gironde!
Click to expand...
World wide here have been hundreds of cases from BEV's to bicycles spontaneously combusting. If you think BEV's are less polluting you need to do some research. Li Ion batteries are unstable, even a huge cargo ship was sunk recently when the BEV's it was carrying caught fire.
IMO the problem is not cars or fossil fuels, it's over population.
 
Last bit today, a working handbrake warning light,
Wire came out the white thingy and went god knows where so had too get another,
Copper bit usually holds the wire into the white bit but then it was hitting metal below it and putting the light on so squished the copper down onto the wire and it works so its staying like that!

And that screw for the bracket what an absolute nightmare,

Snapchat-2065723996.jpg


Snapchat-1389326376.jpg
 
Salisbury Nick said:
Bang on with the speedo issues, quite a big change there - under reports by about a 3rd - so if the speedo says 30 i’m doing 40! I think.
Nick
Click to expand...
What size are they! :eek:
with 32s (which is pushing it a bit inside standard arches) is about 2mph @30 gets more as speed increases maybe 4 mph at 70, on the autobahn would increase more again every sort of 10mph gets further out. So long as you take your time you should be fine I’ve never had an issue. With the arch liners I had to adjust the stops on the hub slightly to stop you turning too far and rubbing (usually rusted solid) still catches the radius arm now and again but only if turning sharp in reverse for some reason, once they wore down a bit was not such an issue. Can handle nose compression and steering angle but not too much of both at once if that makes sense? Body lift should help that
 
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