gold rover said:
Nothing. Left her at home, whilst dog and I walked to farm. All these short hops upset her, and leaving the engine running upsets me. Trying to decide if it's cheaper to change battery every few months , than use up fuel, to keep battery happy. At over £240 a tank, beginning to look like battery sacrifice is on cards.
Click to expand...

Following on from previous post. Anyone used/using any of these ? I want something simple , plug and play, that I can do myself, without drilling holes or taking bits out.
Thanks in advance folks :)

https://www.bestproductsreviews.co....6modaJ-z27rkjL5EX6gr0RTi3eKflK-hoC_hQQAvD_BwE
 
IMG_1911.jpg IMG_1911.jpg
gold rover said:
Following on from previous post. Anyone used/using any of these ? I want something simple , plug and play, that I can do myself, without drilling holes or taking bits out.
Thanks in advance folks :)

https://www.bestproductsreviews.co....6modaJ-z27rkjL5EX6gr0RTi3eKflK-hoC_hQQAvD_BwE
Click to expand...
I use 20 watt panels with charge regulators. The panels cost around £30 and the charge regulators £6, but you have to supply your own wire and connect the panel to the controller and the controller to the battery. If you have a tow hitch and socket(s), the 7 pin S connector has a fused live and earth, the 13 pin connector also has the same. Dead easy to connect, I can provide pin outs if required.
Of course you could spend £132.99 on one in your link that comes without a charge controller and so could overcharge in summer. Anything less than 20 watt is a waste of time as it will not do the job in winter..
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1912.jpg
    IMG_1912.jpg
    530 KB · Views: 119
  • IMG_0029.JPG
    IMG_0029.JPG
    464.6 KB · Views: 102
Last edited:
gold rover said:
Nothing. Left her at home, whilst dog and I walked to farm. All these short hops upset her, and leaving the engine running upsets me. Trying to decide if it's cheaper to change battery every few months , than use up fuel, to keep battery happy. At over £240 a tank, beginning to look like battery sacrifice is on cards.
Click to expand...
You won’t charge battery up on a run. They always need trickle charging even when A is O K. Have mine on charge now (off vehicle) do it every 6 months. Takes couple days trickle get it topped right up with big battery. Was down to 12.4V (12.1 Is beyond repair with this one) so left it late, batteries only year old with no drain issues etc just it’s usual thirst.
 
Added a 12in sub too the stock system after so long of resisting the urge too do it,
Also picked up tyres for it, 275 45 20s too replace the undersized 275 40 20s,
Few adventures with the car trailer fetching another 328i and also a 106 of all things
 
RangeRoller dt said:
You won’t charge battery up on a run. They always need trickle charging even when A is O K. Have mine on charge now (off vehicle) do it every 6 months. Takes couple days trickle get it topped right up with big battery. Was down to 12.4V (12.1 Is beyond repair with this one) so left it late, batteries only year old with no drain issues etc just it’s usual thirst.
Click to expand...
You will if the run is long enough. If you start with a fully charged battery, the alternator with a modern regulator giving a charge voltage starting at 14.7v will replace the energy used for a normal start in about 10 miles but not if you have to crank for ages.
 
gold rover said:
Following on from previous post. Anyone used/using any of these ? I want something simple , plug and play, that I can do myself, without drilling holes or taking bits out.
Thanks in advance folks :)

https://www.bestproductsreviews.co....6modaJ-z27rkjL5EX6gr0RTi3eKflK-hoC_hQQAvD_BwE
Click to expand...
Sounds bogus.
20 ÷ 12 = 1.67
That's assuming a 12v panel, which wouldn't charge a 12v battery.
Standard panels are 21v so you'd get 0.95A not 1.67A. you'd be lucky to get half an amp in reality, even then only for a short time
 
kermit_rr said:
Sounds bogus.
20 ÷ 12 = 1.67
That's assuming a 12v panel, which wouldn't charge a 12v battery.
Standard panels are 21v so you'd get 0.95A not 1.67A. you'd be lucky to get half an amp in reality, even then only for a short time
Click to expand...
I have 6 x 20 watt panels, they produce as you say around 21volts off load. On a sunny day connected via a charge controller to the P38 battery, I get a maximum of 0.85A for at least 6 hours. On an overcast day in winter as little as 30ma.
 
Grrrrrr said:
£180 to fill from empty to brim. At this rate it will break the £200 mark by the end of the year.
Click to expand...

:eek: that`s got to hurt, i try not to do large fill ups like that its to depressing:(
i am trying not to make too many journeys and use the most economical motor we have, and the other half is talking about going up to Edinburgh for a week:rolleyes:
 
brianp38dse said:
:eek: that`s got to hurt, i try not to do large fill ups like that its to depressing:(
i am trying not to make too many journeys and use the most economical motor we have, and the other half is talking about going up to Edinburgh for a week:rolleyes:
Click to expand...
Might be cheaper to fly & rent a car than drive the P38 up there !!
 
Pretty sure the old bus hates me at this point. Just started a new trend. Stalls when I select a gear. Been told it could be (in no order):
Gearbox oil dead.
TC dying
FIP dying
#4 injector dying
Vacuum hose between inlet manifold and fuel filter
Fuel filter blocked
[Edit: EGR blocked maybe?]

So I guess I get to start digging around this weekend. I really should have diag. Could rule out a few of those easily enough in half an our.

[Edit again: Seems the check engine light keeps flashing up. So I am guessing it is likely to be something that diag monitors. FIP or #4? Anything else I need to check which could flash the check engine?]
 
Last edited:
Bix said:
Pretty sure the old bus hates me at this point. Just started a new trend. Stalls when I select a gear. Been told it could be (in no order):
Gearbox oil dead.
TC dying
FIP dying
#4 injector dying
Vacuum hose between inlet manifold and fuel filter
Fuel filter blocked
[Edit: EGR blocked maybe?]

So I guess I get to start digging around this weekend. I really should have diag. Could rule out a few of those easily enough in half an our.

[Edit again: Seems the check engine light keeps flashing up. So I am guessing it is likely to be something that diag monitors. FIP or #4? Anything else I need to check which could flash the check engine?]
Click to expand...

Check modulation but suspect chain stretch or FIP on its way out. A tired lift-pump wouldn't help, especially if blocked with bacterial growth should anyone have slipped some cooking oil or chip-fat in there recently.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
Range Rover L322 - not turning over
Replies
12
Views
1K
gold rover
gold rover
B
L320 range rover sport 3.0 tdv6 loosing power steering fluid
Replies
3
Views
533
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
F
1980 Range Rover 2 door v8 to 300tdi
2
Replies
20
Views
1K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
T
Non start
Replies
3
Views
717
Datatek
Datatek
T
Fan Clutch??
Replies
14
Views
795
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr