I'd sooner have cancer than touch an ejokeYou touched an EjokeI would prescribe a week in quarantine and some tinkering with a proper rangie and you may just survive
Plenty of grass in our back garden if you fancy a treat
hef19898
Well-Known Member
We had a spade, a shovel, recovery gear... Never needed it! She could have used more power so, but that was carb related problems. Oh, and the faulty fuel pump wire! Lucky me it was just a wire and fuse, and not the Jag ignition relay... I failed to carry one with me and those are already hard enough to come by in Europe!
It was awesome and fun trip so!
I used the spade, for not directly car related purposes...
It was awesome and fun trip so!
I used the spade, for not directly car related purposes...
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
I think that's the one MrGorsky bought. Just about does 4 ball-joints if you are lucky. He bought the bigger £60 kit the first time and it got all 4 out and 3 in before it bent. He then gotbthe smaller £40 kit and it pushed the last one straight in (no freezer because I forgot to put it in). Means we have another 6 presses worth left if we're lucky.
It is too heavy to post but if you are coming past or someone else can courier I am sure he would lend it once we've done the radius arm bushes.
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
Buried the missus out there? The body just dessicates so I hope you were careful.
That sand and dust gets absolutely everywhere so give it a good wash underneath.
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
Do you want to borrow the radius arm bush tool, i could even pick up the press to push them in makes it a piece of cake to fit.
hef19898
Well-Known Member
The car returned cleaner from that trip as she ever was before, just a little bit more pressure and the proffessional cleaners would have stripper the paint. They even managed to get the incrusted dirt off the exhaust! Only thing missing is cleaning the trunk, I didn't have the stomach to unload it. They even managed to get quite some junk from my local offroad park out, clearly distinguishable by the different color of it!
Damper fitting day!
First damper was a piece of ****. Bottom stud being sheared off helped a lot. 18mm up top, and 17mm for the new damper and bolt. Even had a 19mm hex built into the damper to hold it still while tightening.
Second side however, the last 2 threads have degraded a lot. Too much for my little 9 year old, self made strap spanner. Looks like I am sawing off the stud to the nut and then just slipping the nut off.
First damper was a piece of ****. Bottom stud being sheared off helped a lot. 18mm up top, and 17mm for the new damper and bolt. Even had a 19mm hex built into the damper to hold it still while tightening.
Second side however, the last 2 threads have degraded a lot. Too much for my little 9 year old, self made strap spanner. Looks like I am sawing off the stud to the nut and then just slipping the nut off.
And we're done. I only had a saw blade with some electrical tape wrapped around one side to use as a saw so cutting through the stud took time.
Turned out the damage was a couple of threads into the nylock too, which is why it'd bind when I got near the end. Not having an angle grinder or a big ol' F-Type to get some torque on the damper lower I resorted to cutting a relief into the nut which I was able to blast about half a can of ZX54 (overkill, but the can had almost no squirt juice left so I just did it to get rid of the can) in to which I left while I ate lunch.
Finessed the nut off and was able to slap in the second damper.
Small note, the second damper didn't have the hex built into the lower. So at some point the design changed and I got one of each.
[Edit: Also, although 10 years old and one being broken, the Terrafirmas were still firm as ****, and the driver side took some effort to compress to get out of the axle. On the other hand these Bearmach dampers seemed awfully soft, they didn't have binding to keep them compressed in shipping and I could hear the oil sloshing around inside. Not sure if this is normal, or Bearmach are just really soft.]
Turned out the damage was a couple of threads into the nylock too, which is why it'd bind when I got near the end. Not having an angle grinder or a big ol' F-Type to get some torque on the damper lower I resorted to cutting a relief into the nut which I was able to blast about half a can of ZX54 (overkill, but the can had almost no squirt juice left so I just did it to get rid of the can) in to which I left while I ate lunch.
Finessed the nut off and was able to slap in the second damper.
Small note, the second damper didn't have the hex built into the lower. So at some point the design changed and I got one of each.
[Edit: Also, although 10 years old and one being broken, the Terrafirmas were still firm as ****, and the driver side took some effort to compress to get out of the axle. On the other hand these Bearmach dampers seemed awfully soft, they didn't have binding to keep them compressed in shipping and I could hear the oil sloshing around inside. Not sure if this is normal, or Bearmach are just really soft.]
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
I hope you kept them vertical in a vice and worked them through the full travel,up and down at least three times before fitting them to displace any air.
Oh, yes. I absolutely did that. I remember my training in college some 20 years ago and being told to do that, so absolutely did.I hope you kept them vertical in a vice and worked them through the full travel,up and down at least three times before fitting them to displace any air.
Oh an unrelated note, I wonder if dampers can self bleed while installed.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Too damn hot for mixing cement here today.What time does the cement arrive?
