After not being out in the beast for the last 2 weeks just due to it being cold wet and holidays and tbh no excuse that the long haired would accept for me driving in snow. I finally escaped and got out today. (she went back to work) and needed me to do some shopping for supplies.
Despite not being used for over a week and sitting at minus temps this old beauty started on the first crank and within minuets sat up to height and got heat into the cabin. Yes the book icon came on for the heat but it worked, Well it is minus 18 Just another day of loving this 21 year old beast so added to my shopping list a few beers haha.
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Been out for another drive, let engine idle for about 15 mins. Switched off and let it sit for 5 mins then drive home.. idling, temp hovered around a constant 95. No coolant leak. No bubbles. Landy seems a happy bunny
Will have to run up to temp at some point with the pressure gauge attached to see just how high it gets. I'm thinking about 10-12psi
 
Been out for another drive, let engine idle for about 15 mins. Switched off and let it sit for 5 mins then drive home.. idling, temp hovered around a constant 95. No coolant leak. No bubbles. Landy seems a happy bunny
Will have to run up to temp at some point with the pressure gauge attached to see just how high it gets. I'm thinking about 10-12psi
Spoke too soon. He's doing a wee :(
 
What's the thought on allmakes vs bearmach vs britpart?? Or does it depend on individual parts?

I don't think there's a lot in it. Dingocroft sold me an Allmakes engine mount claiming it wasn't like Britpart. On torqueing up the bloody stud snapped off. When I got it out you could see where the casting had crystallized all wrong. Left me in a spot. He did take it back with some grumbling and then I went to Land Rover and got originals. Straight in with no messing. On that experience I avoid AllMakes. I already won't touch Britpart - been burned there. Not sure I have used Bearmach yet. As you say it probably depends on the part but I cannot be redoing everything and arguing the toss on **** quality.
 
The one i just replaced goes between the thermostat and water pump


Next i need to replace the belt tensioner, again it's done less than 5000 miles!!! Choice is bearmach or dayco,,, think dayco are the better brand there
Was the fittings gritty /correded in any way? If you get some sand paper and run it around the fittings this eliminate any lines in the aloy or steel that coolant can follow under pressure ;)
As for the pulleys britpart... No..
Contitec, DAYCO, Ina and skf. :)yes!
 
Was the fittings gritty /correded in any way? If you get some sand paper and run it around the fittings this eliminate any lines in the aloy or steel that coolant can follow under pressure ;)
As for the pulleys britpart... No..
Contitec, DAYCO, Ina and skf. :)yes!
No, i only put the pump on a couple of years ago and looks shiny new. I didn't take the pump off to examine, but it looked fine.

Dayco it is then!!
 
been doing some digging on what is normal pressure for engine coolant in a 'closed' system and found this snippet from a BMW forum where someone used a pressure gauge while the engine was running...

Now, during warm up (not driving, just running the engine) the pressure is 4 psi at 40C, 5psi at 50C, 14 psi at 93C, 16 psi at 96C, and 19 psi at 97C.
The pressure goes up disproportionately (compared to temperature increase) in the 95-97C range. The maximum pressure I recorded was 19 psi at 97C.

bearing in mind the cap on a p38 petrol is rated 140, which is roughly 20psi
 
been thinking more on this, probably overthinking, will probably start a new fred when i have a moment...
casting my memory back to skool days and physics and chemistry lessons :eek:
2 things.. vapour pressure of water and solubility of oxygen in water and how both of these impact coolant system pressure.
mainly, as water temp rises, oxygen in the water is displaced. it can only go into the expansion tank as its a closed system, this happens fairly readily as the temperature increases.
as the system cools again, oxygen is re-absorbed. as the temperature and pressure reduce, this process slows. the surface area in the expansion tank vs total volume of water is quite small, limiting the absorption capability. this would present a small amount of excess pressure that has nowhere to go.

am i talking complete rubbish?
Cavitation in the pump / passages as it circulates? A central heating boiler seems to free up trapped air, which is why you have to bleed the rad(s) every so often. But it isn't venting out or getting extra in anywhere. I assume the engine is just doing the same. Have to bleed a lot out of central heating to get the pressure down enough for topping up to be needed.
 

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