Scotiawhiskers
Well-Known Member
Got the exhausts bolted on again, will check torque again tomorrow. Was going to check the sump bolt torque but ran out of space and daylight. Will leave it until he is back on the road properly and we can use the big jack on the level.
Discussed alternator mods with electrically minded friend and now on a different path to see if V8 alternator can be simply kicked up to 14.5v or so once he is running again.
Discussed alternator mods with electrically minded friend and now on a different path to see if V8 alternator can be simply kicked up to 14.5v or so once he is running again.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Depends which ecu system you have. Enery will know.
The exhaust part of the l322 pump isn't used and I grounded the temp sensor wire to the pump body. It's not an answer but sure is more efficient than the original "just enough" pump. In fairness to the original setup.
Original pump =diesel engine..
Amk =v8 but hopefully it doesn't drop a liner!! I'll get a picture of it installed. A bit noisy from behind the bulk head but I'm not put off by that.
I wouldn't have spent twice the price on an amk pump but I did just have one of a repair and it is from 2014 so may be even more efficient with a seal kit. Another benefit is that it has a dryer pack directly on it.
All réversible and nothing butchered
Dopey
Well-Known Member
Look to why my 12v socket isn't working, so looked online got a map (Legend?) to see what fuse is what, and I came across this.... and I am not joking this is for real
U5 -12 V socket (criminal investigation department)
wtf is that all about? And I still not fixed it, man I hate electric, they even spell it wrong with a C and not a K....
U5 -12 V socket (criminal investigation department)
wtf is that all about? And I still not fixed it, man I hate electric, they even spell it wrong with a C and not a K....
Swapped the heater matrix for the Nissens Audi one The original was leaking.The centre rib just needs a light shave with a sharp blade to make it fit. I found a strip of draught excluder top and bottom and rebuild the heater box around it clamps it solid.
Unfortunately, I switched out the garage light and caught the dash trying to navigate my way out in the dark, snapping some parts. So,. Whole bloody dash now needs swapping with the one in the scrapper. Arse.
Unfortunately, I switched out the garage light and caught the dash trying to navigate my way out in the dark, snapping some parts. So,. Whole bloody dash now needs swapping with the one in the scrapper. Arse.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Bugger
jwrrc
Well-Known Member
I hope it was the first time you've tried it in 3 weeks, and not the first time in 3 weeks it's worked
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Scotiawhiskers
Well-Known Member
Got the tailgate release working again. Button does nowt when the little plungers in their clear rubber housing have somehow dislodged deep inside the white section of the switch. Temporarily caught out by the power having stopped since car had been unlocked so long, until I pressed the unlock on the remote and the tailgate button sprang back to life.
Got the tappets, pushrods and rockers all back in. Just within tolerance for pre-load both sides, top of range one side, bottom end the other. But all OK.
Rocker cover paint, fuel rail finishing and broken inlet manifold / fuel rail / loom mounting bolt to sort, then it can all be buttoned up snug. Hoping for MOT this month, first week in December at latest. And that typing that doesn't jinx it all!
Got the tappets, pushrods and rockers all back in. Just within tolerance for pre-load both sides, top of range one side, bottom end the other. But all OK.
Rocker cover paint, fuel rail finishing and broken inlet manifold / fuel rail / loom mounting bolt to sort, then it can all be buttoned up snug. Hoping for MOT this month, first week in December at latest. And that typing that doesn't jinx it all!
jwrrc
Well-Known Member
Dopey
Well-Known Member
Make in the UK I bet, you need good quality Chinese stuff
One reason why I did this was because I needed the car asap and waiting three to four days from the replacement to come as the local shop doesn't stock them anymore... So a second hand pump, some bits of folded steel section and three rubber mounts all hanging around in the garage. Why not?
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
jwrrc
Well-Known Member
I reckon the wipers on my later Rangie are at least 9 years old and they're still going strong. Standing on a farm didn't do the set I've replaced any good, perished rubber from the sunlight, and a layer of filth.Nine years!,they don't make them like they used to.
The new ones (from Famous Four, but I think they're made in China) will probably last less than half as long before they need replacing again.
Back to me Werthers before I get too bleary eyed about the past
