Hopefully not à bucket full...Which is it? Half or all!! Can't be both
And which half did you end up with!?
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
When I sold the caravan a while ago the buyer turned up in a J**p, when he hitched up and tried to get the van out of its parking spot and on to the drive I couldn't believe how bad the steering lock was on it,he had to shunt so it's front wheels didn't mount the sets and drive onto the lawn. Never had that problem with the P38.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I don't have definite information on it, but I believe there is a non return valve in the pump. Not had one apart yet to find out for sure but something has to hold the pressure the pump creates.
Ah well insurance renewal time. The quote I got wasn't that bad (£279 fully comp) but being a Yorkshire man I do like to save a bob or 2. Spent a lovely 30 mins on phone with insurance company and amazing what you can get if you say you don't want to renew. Got them down to £230 , fully comp, agreed valuation £3500, 6000 miles a year, protected no claims and all the standard bells and whistles. As we say around here That'll do
neilly
Well-Known Member
Sat on the open tailgate.. clunk.. stood up.. clunk..
Ooh dear.. some more bushes must need replacing
I sat on mine last year, stood up no worries.
My Little brother sat on it, and snap, the cable snapped, oh! the look of guilt & how quickly he moved thinking I was going to give him a slap....LOL.
Priceless...well actually 50 notes from Maltings...But worth it.
Cheers
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Or a diet.Sat on the open tailgate.. clunk.. stood up.. clunk..
Ooh dear.. some more bushes must need replacing
RudeOr organ donation
Sat on the open tailgate.. clunk.. stood up.. clunk..
Ooh dear.. some more bushes must need replacing
Dampers OK?
Something else to check! Ta
Datatek
Well-Known Member
You don't need to remove the steel bush from the hub, just the thin brass or stainless spring sleeve that holds the sensor.Got to the point of no return by destroying the old abs sensor!! Realised i don't have the technology to get the steel collar out which now seems to be part of the hub
The Bush may need honing out to get the new sensor and sleeve in. I did this using a bit of dowel split lengthways for about 50mm into which is inserted some wet or dry 600 grade, the dowel is put in an electric drill, dowel inserted into the bush, drill started and move in and out ontil enough rust has been removed to get the sensor & sleeve in, just don't over do it.
The sensor outer case and the cage are still in there
somewhat mangled now.. i went green on it
Datatek
Well-Known Member
It was a hammer and chisel job on mineThe sensor outer case and the cage are still in there
Careful you don't damage the reluctor ring like I did, still a new CV joint was not expensive
Scotiawhiskers
Well-Known Member
Finally got to the point of first head back on, ARP studs in place and first stage torque on the nuts. Second stage tomorrow morning, 3rd stage in the afternoon. 3rd stage repeated on Monday when it has all had settling time.
Learned that trick on old Reliants and Guzzis. Torque down in stages to full torque, then use - 500 mile torque check some head nuts will be barely finger tight. Torque down, leave overnight to settle, re-torque to final values, mostly will go 1/8 - 1/2 turn tighter for that torque, 500 mile check, everything is still sound.
Will be doing the same with inlet bolts and exhaust bolts too. Keep everything as sound and solid as possible for as long as possible.
Learned that trick on old Reliants and Guzzis. Torque down in stages to full torque, then use - 500 mile torque check some head nuts will be barely finger tight. Torque down, leave overnight to settle, re-torque to final values, mostly will go 1/8 - 1/2 turn tighter for that torque, 500 mile check, everything is still sound.
Will be doing the same with inlet bolts and exhaust bolts too. Keep everything as sound and solid as possible for as long as possible.
Scotiawhiskers
Well-Known Member
Die grinder type bit on a Dremel and cut a slot in the case / cage to allow it to drop out easier?It was a hammer and chisel job on mine
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Not possible to cut the cage IMO. It is possible to put a drill down the centre of the sensor, it then possible to remove the remains of the sensor. Once the sensor is out, the cage as you call it comes out easily.
I've got a small screwdriver down between the outer case of the sensor and the spring/cage thing, at several points.
All I'm doing is mangling it further.. need some needle nose grips to give it a firm tug. Can't really see what's holding it in place really. It's dark, cold and trying to rain now so I've given up.
Who thought it would be a full weekend to replace an abs sensor!?
