just the rear shaft but cant get it off never seen Ujs this stuck in before :confused: removed the shaft from the diff so its hanging down at the rear but none of the others will budge so not driveable currently, bits of roller bearings everywhere. Think il have to get the prop shaft bolt tool and deal with it off the vehicle
I'd be tempted to just angle grinder it all off and fit a total replacement
 
Sort of, it’s a weird size that I don’t have ring spanner or can’t manage a socket on , Nearly sheared one :eek: if I could get electric to it I’d grind it off. Knowing my luck il have to get the bolts out of the handbrake drum and the mid exhaust off to get to the shaft guard too :oops:
 
seriously thinking about scrapping this thing :mad: Wrestled with rear shaft all day got the UJ half off the rear but its taken 2 circlip pliers and my new g clamp is way out of shape. Cant get UJ out the back or the front of the shaft so its just hanging there. Not got the tool to get to shaft bolts, no idea how im getting to work tomorrow but one of my knuckles is the size of a bollock so ive pretty much given up today. Damn RangeRovers! :mad::mad::mad::mad:

Sounds like my UJs - no way they were shifting out. You can put Plusgas on and bang the ... ****, lost the word ... Cap? Bang the cap down a bit. In extemis drill the ****er out and go with a chisel.
 
just the rear shaft but cant get it off never seen Ujs this stuck in before :confused: removed the shaft from the diff so its hanging down at the rear but none of the others will budge so not driveable currently, bits of roller bearings everywhere. Think il have to get the prop shaft bolt tool and deal with it off the vehicle

The tool makes it way easier. Imperial size iirc.
 
Sort of, it’s a weird size that I don’t have ring spanner or can’t manage a socket on , Nearly sheared one :eek: if I could get electric to it I’d grind it off. Knowing my luck il have to get the bolts out of the handbrake drum and the mid exhaust off to get to the shaft guard too :oops:

Think you need handbrake drim off and output flange too. Not hard but hassle and you don't want to upset that seal
 
Don't need the special tool.
I use 3/8" drive socket, extension and ratchet.
9/16" socket and a 9/16" open ended spanner just to hold the nuts. This is on me tratter though. Don't know about p38's but I'm down me pit in a bit and I'll see if it's the same on Duchess.
 
Diff end is same as my tratter,, tother end is not and I can see why you're struggling.
Diff end in pic.
IMG_20211018_125440_358.jpg
 
Tight git, buy a prop nut spanner, cheap as chips on Ebay:rolleyes:
Who me? I have got the 'proper' tool as well but it's no better or worse, in fact, I think it's worse than my ratchet set up but can't remember why.
The tool, I think, is no use for the drum brake end of a 38 cos, I think again, the bolts are much bigger?
 
Who me? I have got the 'proper' tool as well but it's no better or worse, in fact, I think it's worse than my ratchet set up but can't remember why.
The tool, I think, is no use for the drum brake end of a 38 cos, I think again, the bolts are much bigger?
I was thinking of Grrrrrrrr
 
Who me? I have got the 'proper' tool as well but it's no better or worse, in fact, I think it's worse than my ratchet set up but can't remember why.
The tool, I think, is no use for the drum brake end of a 38 cos, I think again, the bolts are much bigger?
From memory the bolts are captive ,held by the put flange so no need for a spanner on them;)
 
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