"Just dreading bleeding a P38. Never had to do it, been trying to avoid it best I can."

The Norwegian fellow has a YouTube video on bleeding the brakes. Two person job.
 
Bix said:
Would make more sense if I have a V8, but it is only a tratter.
The Boss is maybe OK, maybeish when doing technical jobs. I'll have to give it a try. What's the worst that could happen?
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Shouting match divorce :eek: .Mines a diesel as well Superchiped and I could tear tyres off it. Manual gearbox as well.;):D
 
tomcat59alan said:
Shouting match divorce :eek: .Mines a diesel as well Superchiped and I could tear tyres off it. Manual gearbox as well.;):D
Click to expand...
I said worst... just kidding wife! Who is probably still on here watching.
I never chipped mine. It is at 261k miles, still with original engine and gearbox. I don't really want to push my luck. I've decided if my box dies I'll swop in the 4HP24 and turn up the wick. Until then stock will have to do.
 
Bix said:
I said worst... just kidding wife! Who is probably still on here watching.
I never chipped mine. It is at 261k miles, still with original engine and gearbox. I don't really want to push my luck. I've decided if my box dies I'll swop in the 4HP24 and turn up the wick. Until then stock will have to do.
Click to expand...
Very wise man.:D
 
Bix said:
Went in for this year's MoT test. I am concerned she might fail on a binding front right brake. Had it off and cleaned up, but still happened intermittently, so that'll be fun.
Maybe a few bushes too, heard one or too clunk's driving into work which I don't recall hearing before, but maybe I am just being paranoid.

Possible front left tyre, noticed that front left is wearing on the outside edge, but she tracks straight as an arrow, which is a concern. That and even when running the rears at 36PSI the inside band of the tyre is wearing quickly.

Bloody P38s, never simple. But basically I expect a failure today. So if I pass I'll be massively surprised.
Click to expand...

Check viscous coupling.
 
Bix said:
Would make more sense if I have a V8, but it is only a tratter.
The Boss is maybe OK, maybeish when doing technical jobs. I'll have to give it a try. What's the worst that could happen?
Click to expand...
I’ve always bled the brakes on my own (and manual box slave cylinder) (and every other job) never had problems. I gave up once when clutch dropped to floor but everyone here convinced me give it one more go and BYU!
Trick is take your time and keep topping up so level doesn’t do go down in the expansion tank.

Il order some fluid and a flexi now and get it to you soon as poss.
 
After my near death experience last saturday on my Vespa scooter ride i have today mostly been clay barring my L405 in the safety of my mancave of which i am staying in until i feel better. I have to say its the first time ever i have used a clay bar technique and although its a very time consuming process its quite rewarding results wise. Just when you think your bodywork is clean and polished the amount of dirt that comes off on the clay is unreal. More to do tomorow. Rome wasn't built in a day and the L405 is the size of Rome. LOL
 
Bix said:
She passed, but with a sizeable list. Tyres getting close (nail in rear left, explains why I lose air), oil leaks, AC BELT MISSING (weirdly his biggest concern), exhaust got slight leak in the flexi, cat is mongoosed but passes emissions so he passed it. Heat shield rattling. Probably need to sand back and respray my springs too as they have signs of corrosion.
Got to replace some brake pipes, they've just started rusting. Booo! Not bad for 22 years old though. Just dreading bleeding a P38. Never had to do it, been trying to avoid it best I can.
I might have to take you up on that, orange but works is better than black that doesn't.


I was wondering if that could be the case. One of the junctions coming home is a tight right into a uphill section that I have to hit with speed or I'll never get through a gap in traffic. Probably why it is only really obvious on the front left... I'll slow down I swear.
Click to expand...

When you do the brake pipes if do them from the joints in drivers front wheel arch crack the joints so you know they will undo then crimp the pipe that is coming out flat you can then cut the pipe after the crimped bit and you wont loose all the fluid out of the modulator,
replace all the rear pipe work and make up the new bits ready then just do a quick swap round and you will have minimal loss to top up and it should bleed ok with gravity (well mine did:p)
 
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