Reset the pedal switch, didn't make any difference :(
The error is always the same, front right sensor electrical failure xx times.
 
Just changed the gearbox oil.

HsxzsHsl.jpg


7k on the old stuff.

bWyPTpkl.jpg

Efumnmul.jpg


which is which!! ;)

Shifts even better now i'll change it again in a few hundred miles, just to flush it out!

Did the transfer box too, 11k on this oil still cherry red!

g65B8Xdl.jpg


Made a light mess.

UifE23Tl.jpg


All is well at the moment!! ;)
 
I think it will depend what we find. If it is just the gasket and no major damage, plus the lifters / cam looking OK then we will stick with just them at the moment.
If there is block cracking / liner movement then we would go the whole hog, with top hat liners and possibly roller rockers as well. It will all depend. If only there was a clear and unequivocal way of determining between gasket and block issues!
Given that it has only just started as far as we can tell (last 200 miles or so) and no white smoke / steam at start up I am hopeful we have it early enough for just gaskets. Then we can get everything else back into fettle before we have to potentially go big on the motor. Compression test at the weekend may help to determine it.
Understood buddy albeit having been in a similar situation to yours some years ago i just went the whole hog and never looked back. Even had a slight bore increase too at same time and skimmed heads and a fast road cam and high lift oil pump. Took my 2.0 litre pinto to 2.1 litres and gave me another 25 bhp i think. Very quick Granada she was after that and not for that much more monies either.
 
Did nothing today except use her as a tool station. Boot open passing tools to youngest son whilst he changed rear shockers and brake pads on his Audi A3. What a faff though special tool to wind in rear brake cylinders and thank heaven for impact driver to take studs out for the top brackets holding shocks. Took twice the time it did to do the same job on P38
 
Just changed the gearbox oil.

HsxzsHsl.jpg


7k on the old stuff.

bWyPTpkl.jpg

Efumnmul.jpg


which is which!! ;)

Shifts even better now i'll change it again in a few hundred miles, just to flush it out!

Did the transfer box too, 11k on this oil still cherry red!

g65B8Xdl.jpg


Made a light mess.

UifE23Tl.jpg


All is well at the moment!! ;)
Don't see why the oil in the transfer box shouldn't be cherry red,it's not subjected to combustion or clutch plate contamination.;):D
 
I haven't done anything to the car today other than think about it, or more to the point, go through yet another long list of things it needs to be done to it to get it back to top-notch condition. Yesterday wifey and I regreased the uni-joints and propshafts. So hopefully there will be no more juddering while driving or metal on metal noises from the nether regions of the thing. I honestly thought I had bought sealed for life uni joints but it turns out I never did. So that is now a yearly service part rather than just an inspection. Although I do need to get a pneumatic grease gun. My toolbox was already full (a roller box that I had when I was working back for Ford in Australia 17 years ago, so I already had a ton of tools), now though because my wife and I are doing absolutely everything we can we know we need quite a few more tools yet albeit begrudgingly. One thing we have noticed is we really need to get under there and get on all of the surface rust. Due to not being able to get the car off the ground fully with all four wheels removed and working on a shared driveway means we can't leave the car on stands overnight so we can remove parts to refurbish them.
Now I'm off to see what the torque specs are for wheel hub nuts (just curious because I know at one stage they'll need to be done), exciting times..........................
 
I haven't done anything to the car today other than think about it, or more to the point, go through yet another long list of things it needs to be done to it to get it back to top-notch condition. Yesterday wifey and I regreased the uni-joints and propshafts. So hopefully there will be no more juddering while driving or metal on metal noises from the nether regions of the thing. I honestly thought I had bought sealed for life uni joints but it turns out I never did. So that is now a yearly service part rather than just an inspection. Although I do need to get a pneumatic grease gun. My toolbox was already full (a roller box that I had when I was working back for Ford in Australia 17 years ago, so I already had a ton of tools), now though because my wife and I are doing absolutely everything we can we know we need quite a few more tools yet albeit begrudgingly. One thing we have noticed is we really need to get under there and get on all of the surface rust. Due to not being able to get the car off the ground fully with all four wheels removed and working on a shared driveway means we can't leave the car on stands overnight so we can remove parts to refurbish them.
Now I'm off to see what the torque specs are for wheel hub nuts (just curious because I know at one stage they'll need to be done), exciting times..........................
109nm or 80 lb ft alloy wheels
 
The inner and outer wheel arch repair panels have arrived. Outers , as previously, are not needed, but before it becomes a yearly rub and spray, I've decided to do elective surgery. The inners are Justins, as we have no idea if needed or not .
I have to give massive thanks to Stuart at FamousFour. For checking I really wanted inners, for working with me to get all parts posted out double time , (posted yesterday, arrived today), and for generally being an all round good guy. :D
 
109nm or 80 lb ft alloy wheels
Thanks Alan. I have found a torque wrench that is a 1/2" drive and goes up to 400nm for a bit under £150. I have one already that goes to 200nm. however, the reason I searched for a higher torque spec is because I looked on Rave for what is the highest torque capability and it goes up to 260nm if I remember correctly. I don't need that right now but will do in the future.
 
Nothing actually. But I did park at my new job right next to very nice aubergine colored soft dash with complete and almost prestine interior. Now I have to find who's car that is!

Also booked my TÜV appointment for August 4th. Until then I need to chnage all oils, replce some gaskets, sort the vacuum leak out and get an emissions test. And maybe get the carbs nad ignition calibrated. Good thing is my TÜV engineer said the small exhaust holes don't matter!
 
Thanks Alan. I have found a torque wrench that is a 1/2" drive and goes up to 400nm for a bit under £150. I have one already that goes to 200nm. however, the reason I searched for a higher torque spec is because I looked on Rave for what is the highest torque capability and it goes up to 260nm if I remember correctly. I don't need that right now but will do in the future.
I'm guessing that torque is for the big crankshaft bolt hopefully you'll never need to take that off, usually to do the timing chains, sprockets , guides and tensioners.;):D It's got to be that tight because it grips the oil pump and you don't want to loose drive on that.
 
I'm guessing that torque is for the big crankshaft bolt hopefully you'll never need to take that off, usually to do the timing chains, sprockets , guides and tensioners.;):D It's got to be that tight because it grips the oil pump and you don't want to loose drive on that.

I do plan to do a full engine rebuild at some point. I need to save up a bit for a cheap runaround before I tackle that. I'll probably buy a 2nd engine, rebuild it & then figure out how I am going to install it. All just thoughts at the moment.
I'm so far into the car financially, aside from normal servicing, rego and, insurance, that I'll never recoup the money I've spent (not unless the P38 becomes a huge collector's item in the next 20 years and worth 10s of thousands of £:D). So it is both a labour of love (;)) and necessity.
 
Remembered today my mot is due take a cancellation place tomorrow or wait 2weeks.
"Okay yeah il take tomorrow thanks."
"If you could drop it off before 6pm we'll put it in and test it first thing"
Full of good ideas me
 
Thanks Alan. I have found a torque wrench that is a 1/2" drive and goes up to 400nm for a bit under £150. I have one already that goes to 200nm. however, the reason I searched for a higher torque spec is because I looked on Rave for what is the highest torque capability and it goes up to 260nm if I remember correctly. I don't need that right now but will do in the future.
Mate of mine showed us his sockets and torque wrench from his works many years ago. He worked at a firm that did control valves and stuff for oil and nuclear installations, and production line automation equipment. Their biggest socket was about 8 inches, I think a 2" square drive, the wrench used was rated to just over 400lb/ft and was used with a 4:1 gearing multiplier as it had to be tightened to 1600lb/ft!
 
Rear pads, à ball joint and the rear prop rubber. Nice. Took it for a lol drive this evening and it handles nicely.
Simple trick. I clamped a bit of wood to the disk either side and measured the distances closest to the rear and front of the disks possible. Just a 1MM toe out, I know it does not compare to a tracking set up but tracks really well.
Obviously on the ramp and the wood was set to suit the castor'ish... :D

Not a pro setup please..... o_O
 
Mate of mine showed us his sockets and torque wrench from his works many years ago. He worked at a firm that did control valves and stuff for oil and nuclear installations, and production line automation equipment. Their biggest socket was about 8 inches, I think a 2" square drive, the wrench used was rated to just over 400lb/ft and was used with a 4:1 gearing multiplier as it had to be tightened to 1600lb/ft!
Should be ok for spark plugs and oil filters then
 

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