Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
Just changed the gearbox oil.
7k on the old stuff.
which is which!!
Shifts even better now i'll change it again in a few hundred miles, just to flush it out!
Did the transfer box too, 11k on this oil still cherry red!
Made a light mess.
All is well at the moment!!
7k on the old stuff.
which is which!!
Shifts even better now i'll change it again in a few hundred miles, just to flush it out!
Did the transfer box too, 11k on this oil still cherry red!
Made a light mess.
All is well at the moment!!
Enthusiastman
Well-Known Member
Understood buddy albeit having been in a similar situation to yours some years ago i just went the whole hog and never looked back. Even had a slight bore increase too at same time and skimmed heads and a fast road cam and high lift oil pump. Took my 2.0 litre pinto to 2.1 litres and gave me another 25 bhp i think. Very quick Granada she was after that and not for that much more monies either.
Did nothing today except use her as a tool station. Boot open passing tools to youngest son whilst he changed rear shockers and brake pads on his Audi A3. What a faff though special tool to wind in rear brake cylinders and thank heaven for impact driver to take studs out for the top brackets holding shocks. Took twice the time it did to do the same job on P38
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Don't see why the oil in the transfer box shouldn't be cherry red,it's not subjected to combustion or clutch plate contamination.Just changed the gearbox oil.
7k on the old stuff.
which is which!!
Shifts even better now i'll change it again in a few hundred miles, just to flush it out!
Did the transfer box too, 11k on this oil still cherry red!
Made a light mess.
All is well at the moment!!
Shimsteriom
Master Procrastinator
All the way to the bottom of your garden?
not going near my gardens bottom
MacMan6107
Well-Known Member
I haven't done anything to the car today other than think about it, or more to the point, go through yet another long list of things it needs to be done to it to get it back to top-notch condition. Yesterday wifey and I regreased the uni-joints and propshafts. So hopefully there will be no more juddering while driving or metal on metal noises from the nether regions of the thing. I honestly thought I had bought sealed for life uni joints but it turns out I never did. So that is now a yearly service part rather than just an inspection. Although I do need to get a pneumatic grease gun. My toolbox was already full (a roller box that I had when I was working back for Ford in Australia 17 years ago, so I already had a ton of tools), now though because my wife and I are doing absolutely everything we can we know we need quite a few more tools yet albeit begrudgingly. One thing we have noticed is we really need to get under there and get on all of the surface rust. Due to not being able to get the car off the ground fully with all four wheels removed and working on a shared driveway means we can't leave the car on stands overnight so we can remove parts to refurbish them.
Now I'm off to see what the torque specs are for wheel hub nuts (just curious because I know at one stage they'll need to be done), exciting times..........................
Now I'm off to see what the torque specs are for wheel hub nuts (just curious because I know at one stage they'll need to be done), exciting times..........................
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
109nm or 80 lb ft alloy wheels
gold rover
Well-Known Member
The inner and outer wheel arch repair panels have arrived. Outers , as previously, are not needed, but before it becomes a yearly rub and spray, I've decided to do elective surgery. The inners are Justins, as we have no idea if needed or not .
I have to give massive thanks to Stuart at FamousFour. For checking I really wanted inners, for working with me to get all parts posted out double time , (posted yesterday, arrived today), and for generally being an all round good guy.
I have to give massive thanks to Stuart at FamousFour. For checking I really wanted inners, for working with me to get all parts posted out double time , (posted yesterday, arrived today), and for generally being an all round good guy.
MacMan6107
Well-Known Member
Thanks Alan. I have found a torque wrench that is a 1/2" drive and goes up to 400nm for a bit under £150. I have one already that goes to 200nm. however, the reason I searched for a higher torque spec is because I looked on Rave for what is the highest torque capability and it goes up to 260nm if I remember correctly. I don't need that right now but will do in the future.
hef19898
Well-Known Member
Nothing actually. But I did park at my new job right next to very nice aubergine colored soft dash with complete and almost prestine interior. Now I have to find who's car that is!
Also booked my TÜV appointment for August 4th. Until then I need to chnage all oils, replce some gaskets, sort the vacuum leak out and get an emissions test. And maybe get the carbs nad ignition calibrated. Good thing is my TÜV engineer said the small exhaust holes don't matter!
Also booked my TÜV appointment for August 4th. Until then I need to chnage all oils, replce some gaskets, sort the vacuum leak out and get an emissions test. And maybe get the carbs nad ignition calibrated. Good thing is my TÜV engineer said the small exhaust holes don't matter!
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
I'm guessing that torque is for the big crankshaft bolt hopefully you'll never need to take that off, usually to do the timing chains, sprockets , guides and tensioners.
It's got to be that tight because it grips the oil pump and you don't want to loose drive on that.
MacMan6107
Well-Known Member
I'm guessing that torque is for the big crankshaft bolt hopefully you'll never need to take that off, usually to do the timing chains, sprockets , guides and tensioners.
I do plan to do a full engine rebuild at some point. I need to save up a bit for a cheap runaround before I tackle that. I'll probably buy a 2nd engine, rebuild it & then figure out how I am going to install it. All just thoughts at the moment.
I'm so far into the car financially, aside from normal servicing, rego and, insurance, that I'll never recoup the money I've spent (not unless the P38 becomes a huge collector's item in the next 20 years and worth 10s of thousands of £
). So it is both a labour of love () and necessity.
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
Yes but it is subject to heatDon't see why the oil in the transfer box shouldn't be cherry red,it's not subjected to combustion or clutch plate contamination.
Scotiawhiskers
Well-Known Member
Mate of mine showed us his sockets and torque wrench from his works many years ago. He worked at a firm that did control valves and stuff for oil and nuclear installations, and production line automation equipment. Their biggest socket was about 8 inches, I think a 2" square drive, the wrench used was rated to just over 400lb/ft and was used with a 4:1 gearing multiplier as it had to be tightened to 1600lb/ft!
Rear pads, à ball joint and the rear prop rubber. Nice. Took it for a lol drive this evening and it handles nicely.
Simple trick. I clamped a bit of wood to the disk either side and measured the distances closest to the rear and front of the disks possible. Just a 1MM toe out, I know it does not compare to a tracking set up but tracks really well.
Obviously on the ramp and the wood was set to suit the castor'ish...
Not a pro setup please.....
Simple trick. I clamped a bit of wood to the disk either side and measured the distances closest to the rear and front of the disks possible. Just a 1MM toe out, I know it does not compare to a tracking set up but tracks really well.
Obviously on the ramp and the wood was set to suit the castor'ish...
Not a pro setup please.....
Should be ok for spark plugs and oil filters then
