MacMan6107 said:
Does anyone remember how I said last night that I think I have sorted the left rear air leak last night? It was the EAS bypass. The leak was at the t-piece for the lr and tank. So I need to find some really solid 6mm(if I remember correctly) t-pieces to replace them. Do metal ones have a better seal than plastic ones?

Exciting times
Click to expand...

t-piece for the lr and tank?

Don't think metal has any added benefit.
 
Grrrrrr said:
t-piece for the lr and tank?

Don't think metal has any added benefit.
Click to expand...


Bugger. I was hoping there were ones with an o-ring in them that I didn't know about. I may have to instead see if I can set up a test rig for them when I buy new ones before I put them in the car.
 
MacMan6107 said:
Does anyone remember how I said last night that I think I have sorted the left rear air leak last night? It was the EAS bypass. The leak was at the t-piece for the lr and tank. So I need to find some really solid 6mm(if I remember correctly) t-pieces to replace them. Do metal ones have a better seal than plastic ones?

Exciting times
Click to expand...
Do you mind, we're talking about Viagra and grooming:mad: you'd think this was a RR forum.;):D That's the trouble with adding extra potential leak points.I've had a plastic inline connector fitted for years without leaking, perhaps the problem was with the pipe itself.:D
 
Grrrrrr said:
Compression? I'd expect 15 mpg.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I would too. Workshop manual says:

Swimmer level, carbs too rich, stuck choke, idle too high (it's idling around 600-700, so I'd say that's fine), wrong carb damper oil.

In case it is the compression, what can be the cause for that? Cam shaft? Or can it be the ignition as well?

EDIT: I'm going to replace the rocker gaskets anyway in the next couple of days, once I have the left carb of I gone check the swimmer level. I didn't touch the right carb so the should be fine, fuel consumption was nowhere near as bad when I got her.
 
tomcat59alan said:
Do you mind, we're talking about Viagra and grooming:mad: you'd think this was a RR forum.;):D That's the trouble with adding extra potential leak points.I've had a plastic inline connector fitted for years without leaking, perhaps the problem was with the pipe itself.:D
Click to expand...

Yeah, I saw that but I'm just not up for that this morning. :D
 
Hey tomcat59alan I'm going to have a look at these but I need to know first to make sure I get the right ones, do I measure the inner or outer dimensions?
I'm thinking of a fitting like this:

 
hef19898 said:
Yeah, I would too. Workshop manual says:

Swimmer level, carbs too rich, stuck choke, idle too high (it's idling around 600-700, so I'd say that's fine), wrong carb damper oil.

In case it is the compression, what can be the cause for that? Cam shaft? Or can it be the ignition as well?

EDIT: I'm going to replace the rocker gaskets anyway in the next couple of days, once I have the left carb of I gone check the swimmer level. I didn't touch the right carb so the should be fine, fuel consumption was nowhere near as bad when I got her.
Click to expand...
Ah, you mean float level. Have you done a compression test?
 
tomcat59alan said:
Do you mind, we're talking about Viagra and grooming:mad: you'd think this was a RR forum.;):D That's the trouble with adding extra potential leak points.I've had a plastic inline connector fitted for years without leaking, perhaps the problem was with the pipe itself.:D
Click to expand...
Rubberknees will be leaking all over the place Alan once that gorilla has done with him. LOL, maybe you should send him some of your rubber butt plugs just in case. LOL
 
tomcat59alan said:
Oh no not for this application.go on the Bay and type in 6mm airline push fittings.
Click to expand...

Those are the fittings I have and 2 of them are leaking but not where the hose comes out but the piece you push back to remove the pipe. The pipes don't leak at the valve block though, only at those pieces.
 
No compression test done yet. I did screw up the left carb already once, so my best guess would be to start there. And to recalibrate both carbs, now that the snorkel is off. Well, I'll do all that once the gaskets are there. I just hope it ain't anything serious... Thing is the MOT is due in July, latest August. And I have two weeks left to sort stuff out...
 
MacMan6107 said:
Those are the fittings I have and 2 of them are leaking but not where the hose comes out but the piece you push back to remove the pipe. The pipes don't leak at the valve block though, only at those pieces.
Click to expand...
I bought mine from a commercial vehicle factors perhaps the ones off the Bay are suspect. Are the pipe ends smooth and the edge lightly chamfered? A pencil sharpener used gently works.
 
tomcat59alan said:
I bought mine from a commercial vehicle factors perhaps the ones off the Bay are suspect. Are the pipe ends smooth and the edge lightly chamfered? A pencil sharpener used gently works.
Click to expand...


The ends are smooth and straight but not chamfered. There appears to be a lot of gunk of some sort on the outside of the red piece that gets pushed in to release the pipe. I'm just going to buy a couple more of them. If it then still leaks I'll have to come up with another solution. A bomb isn't the solution though. :D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
Range Rover L322 - not turning over
Replies
12
Views
2K
gold rover
gold rover
B
L320 range rover sport 3.0 tdv6 loosing power steering fluid
Replies
3
Views
535
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
F
1980 Range Rover 2 door v8 to 300tdi
2
Replies
20
Views
1K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
T
Non start
Replies
3
Views
717
Datatek
Datatek
T
Fan Clutch??
Replies
14
Views
799
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr