Well it’ll last until the inside rots out....

You get some inside through the holes but my 1984 chassis was very good on the inside, as long as it gets ventilation to dry out it'll last ok, plenty of sixties and seventies chassis still around
 
I use 80% phosphoric acid on all rusty steel parts. Once flaking rust has been removed, paint it on, wipe after a few hours and then leave to dry for 24 hours prior to priming. It's very effective and a lot cheaper than buying branded rust removing products. Obviously H&S precautions need to be applied!
 
+1 phosphoric acid is highly effective at etching and neutralizing...I also use hydrochloric acid when restoring some parts [but use with absolute care and outdoors only]
 
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Before and after treating my P6 shell with rust converter after wire brushing...left a couple of days and sprayed with a non-porous red primer...
 
Norton blaze rapid strip discs (or cheaper equivalent off Amazon).

Changed my perception of how easy it can be to strip paint, rust and underseal and they are so quick compared to flap discs, not do they get clogged up easily.
 
i spray mine with waste oil twice a year,, last year even treated it to brand new oil...lol
Normally once in Spring and then once as we go into shooting season and it gets all wet and slubby

I swing it off the telehandler and steam clean the crap out of it

let it dry for a couple of days on the ramp, then give it a good spray with oil, normally have to mix it withy a splash of diesel to make it flow in the gun.

Then leave it to dry for several days...

TOP TIP
Don't do it two days before your MOT,, my tester is a mate and even he had a sense of humour failure when i made that mistake.....lol
 

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Same sort of treatment has kept my 1090 90 in good order, still has original rear crossmember.
Second TOP TIP Do not park on someone's posh drive or face some more sense of humour fail.:oops:
Plus 3 for phosphoric acid as well.
 

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