JLGALL1
Member
As above clean it well first or you'll never see where it's leaking. Pink fluid could easily be coolant/gearbox fluid which is blown back onto the T-Case so would suggest giving everything a good clean up.
If it is the transfer case then check the breather. It runs off the top of the transfer case up to the bulkhead. Mine was always weeping & needing topped up, found that the breather had melted off the exhaust downpipe & was completely sealed. Cut-off the melted portion & it's more or less bone dry since & the oil level has remained consistent.
Failing that, as above it's likely the I-shaft o-ring which is a transfer case out job.
If it is the transfer case then check the breather. It runs off the top of the transfer case up to the bulkhead. Mine was always weeping & needing topped up, found that the breather had melted off the exhaust downpipe & was completely sealed. Cut-off the melted portion & it's more or less bone dry since & the oil level has remained consistent.
Failing that, as above it's likely the I-shaft o-ring which is a transfer case out job.
JLGALL1
Member
How many miles since the last fluid change in the t-box?
I’d suggest as before to clean everything up & take it for a drive then get back under it & look at the front of the box, if it’s wet at the front only then it’s more than likely the I-shaft but if it’s a blocked breather it’ll also leak elsewhere (sump).
I’d suggest as before to clean everything up & take it for a drive then get back under it & look at the front of the box, if it’s wet at the front only then it’s more than likely the I-shaft but if it’s a blocked breather it’ll also leak elsewhere (sump).
This is the first change for 15 years or 116k miles. I didn't see anything flow out from the breather pipe at the bulkhead. I got a little seeping from the rear cam of the engine, I need to fix this before cleaning everything. How do I check a blocked breather, then get it cleaned?
berg450
Well-Known Member
When I bought my car it was also oily and when I refilled almost 1 liter had to be filled to top it up. In order to identify where it comes from first thing is to clean and whenit dry take it for a ride, not long just a short one, few kms. Check it right after. If still dry take it for a longer drive and check.
This is the way how I found that it is the intermediate shaft. First I have changed the o ring, no success. Final solution was sleeved casing from Ashcroft. Since itis bone dry.
This is the way how I found that it is the intermediate shaft. First I have changed the o ring, no success. Final solution was sleeved casing from Ashcroft. Since itis bone dry.
JLGALL1
Member
Get under the car & pull the breather down from the bulkhead & check for any melting.
The T-Box oil should be changed every B service or 24k miles so unless your the first owner I’d imagine it’s been done before. If you’ve had the car a while & this is the first time you’ve checked the level then the leakage wouldn’t appear excessive but running the t-box half full won’t do it any favours
The T-Box oil should be changed every B service or 24k miles so unless your the first owner I’d imagine it’s been done before. If you’ve had the car a while & this is the first time you’ve checked the level then the leakage wouldn’t appear excessive but running the t-box half full won’t do it any favours
Could be anything from those pictures.
Front output shaft seal or intermidiate shaft O rings, often if it is the O rings that have flattened then it will usually be the casing that has also ovalled out and has to be machined and sleeved.
Deffo degreasing and then observing.
Front output shaft seal or intermidiate shaft O rings, often if it is the O rings that have flattened then it will usually be the casing that has also ovalled out and has to be machined and sleeved.
Deffo degreasing and then observing.
I checked t-box and its breather today. I pulled down the breather and felt it all way to the bolt, it is hard semi-flexible, not like melting, but some oily around the bolt. I also found it is wet around a bolt-like rusty round, a bit concave at its centre (i-shaft?). This is at the front pa
rt of T-box. At its back part it is still dry. If it is i-shaft o-ring, is it possible doable by DIY without remove T-box. Please see pic.
rt of T-box. At its back part it is still dry. If it is i-shaft o-ring, is it possible doable by DIY without remove T-box. Please see pic.
Feathers McGraw
Well-Known Member
No. They just mark their territory.**** me its a land rover..
They leak.
Just keep topping it up.
berg450
Well-Known Member
If it is the O ring of the intermediate shaft then you have to at least pull the tbox a bit away from the gearbox (as far as I remember). For this you have to remove a lot of things already, so maybe better to remove the Tbox and do it on a bench. You have to remove the shaft and change both O rings as one is on the shaft and one is in the housing. It is very difficult to do it while the box is still hanging under the car. Also you can check the shaft hole if it gets oval than even new oring will not help. In my case I had to change the case for a sleeved one.
Picture didn't help, can't visualise where it is.
Have you actually washed it off with degreaser yet? Looks mighty filthy under there. If not then go do it and come back with after pics, the breather pipe is a hard plastic but unless you remove it and blow down it you won't know anything.
Have you actually washed it off with degreaser yet? Looks mighty filthy under there. If not then go do it and come back with after pics, the breather pipe is a hard plastic but unless you remove it and blow down it you won't know anything.
