lolliepop

New Member
hi, has any one had a wet floor? Had my W reg freelander 2 years and really dont have time for it to be sitting about in a garage to hunt the leak. ive tried radseal in the radiator incase it was a leak in the heating system but its back. It is located in the front passenger side and its been found in the boot in the little box, its a puddle! i usually have my friend do repairs but this one is a mystery. I love my jeep and dont want to sell it, its been so perfect in the snow weve been having, i have no complaints about it. info please.:confused:
 
hi, has any one had a wet floor? Had my W reg freelander 2 years and really dont have time for it to be sitting about in a garage to hunt the leak. ive tried radseal in the radiator incase it was a leak in the heating system but its back. It is located in the front passenger side and its been found in the boot in the little box, its a puddle! i usually have my friend do repairs but this one is a mystery. I love my jeep and dont want to sell it, its been so perfect in the snow weve been having, i have no complaints about it. info please.:confused:

Front passenger footwell is the heater matrix, and is fairly expensive to fit.
rear boot box can be anumber of things - look apon it as a design quirk! - best fix is to drill a hole in the bottom to allow the water to get out.

If you like your jeep - why have yu got a freelander as well?

If its a petrol engine - then radseal is likely to kill it completely :(. get it flushed ASAP
 
I call any 4x4 a jeep. bad habit. sorry to confuse:eek:, i know about horses anything tho! :D . it is a 2.0 l diesel. My friend suggested the heater matrix, that why we tried radseal but there dosnt seem to be water dissapearing from the radiator? there is a little dampness if you put your hand up the back and feel the pipes above where the hot air comes out. Does that mean it will have to be replaced or can that be fixed? thanks for the info.
 
Hi It does sound like them matrix , if it is dont be fooled by the," it a long job and expensive" its not , the matrix is £62 off ebay , and with a bit of an easy mod to the pipes can be replaced in 1hr max , i know i did mine, very easy , DO NOT BE FOOLED by scarey comments of its a £1000 and the dash comes out,

The only reason the dash had to come out is because the pipes are solid , replace them with flexible pipes gets around that problem and reduces cost and time.

First buy matrix from EBay £62

matrix1.jpg


Buy 1 metre of ½ inch water pipe and 4 x suitable jubilee clips

Begin by disconnecting the pipes under the bonnet that go in and out of the matrix.

From under the dash passenger side, remove the big black plastic air box that contains the cabin filter. (3 screws in the floor and bulk head)

Remove 3 inch flex pipe to heater.

Remove the clip that holds the cover to the pipes on the side of the matrix heater box.

Remove the 2 screws that hold the cover on the side of the matrix heater box.

Remove the glove box inner.

With some snips or hacksaw crush and cut the two pipes off the matrix and pull them through the bulk head out the way.

The matrix will now slide out from the heater box easy, and from under the dash.

With the new matrix cut a 2 inch section out of each pipe and replace with a section of hose, thus making the connection flexible.

matrix2.jpg

matrix3.jpg


Push the matrix back in the heater box and with your now flexible pipes, poke them through the bulk head.

Reconnect the pipes under the bonnet and replace glove box and heater parts, refill system remembering to bleed the matrix as well.

Job done, NOT EXPESIVE AND NO DASH OUT, easy.

sorry about the pics best i could do ,


Mick
 
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Good write up.
If it works, let us know - one for the Q's and A's bit?
 
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hi, has any one had a wet floor? Had my W reg freelander 2 years and really dont have time for it to be sitting about in a garage to hunt the leak. ive tried radseal in the radiator incase it was a leak in the heating system but its back. It is located in the front passenger side and its been found in the boot in the little box, its a puddle! i usually have my friend do repairs but this one is a mystery. I love my jeep and dont want to sell it, its been so perfect in the snow weve been having, i have no complaints about it. info please.:confused:

Hi, this is my first post so please don't shout folks! I have had two Freelanders and interior damp has been a continual nightmare! I understand that that wee security box is highly prone to miniscule holes allowing damp through because of stones etc chucked up off the road. On my first Freelander, the bottom of the box was frequently very wet. My second Freelander is similar but I'm a bit curious. When out of warranty I got an lpg conversion and the tank is underneath the security box. The latter is still sopping and basically unusable. But the lpg tank - despite some wee dunks from some rather large rocks when off roading - is totally sound.

I'm happy to tolerate water in the car because of wet dogs, clothes, boots, etc. but somewhere there is a leak and, like you, we can't find it! :confused:
 
Hi all, Zoom that was a fantastic write up. I have a matrix to replace next week in my wife's Td4. She is getting "fumes" into the cabin when the heater is on your feet. I have spoken to a few landy mechanics and they all seem to think it's the matrix. So I'm gonna have a look at it on Thursday to make sure, just before I start buying parts and all.
 
Hi , its a bit fiddly as your under the dash but alot better than taking the dash out, but when you look up under the dash its easy to see what to do.

Be sure you cut as much out as possible, to get the pipes as flexable as you can , and make sure they end up at the original pipe length, and you should be fine,

mines been done a while now and has given no problems at all ,

Mick
 
Hi, new to the forum but wanted to comment, spent today removing and replacing the heater matrix on a 2002 Freelander TD4 and for me it was no way an hour job with the flexi hose method. It was impossible to remover the intake box under the dash without a bigger strip down, the box hits the back of the fixed part of the glove box and you need more room to pull it forward because of the section on the back of the box where the air con pipes come in (mine has no air con but still a nightmare to get out). Here's how it went

Remove glove box inner - small section 4 screws
Remove the small storage box inner on the top of the dash - above the grab handle on non passenger air bag models, remove the 2 dash retaining screws.
Remove the passenger side dash retianing screw - lower edge of the dash.
Remove the centre console front - pull of heater control knobs, rempve 2 screws, remove 4 screws in white control panel, remove stereo, undo 2 screws behind this, remove 2 screws one each side of gear stick.
Pull centre dash front away far enough to remove 2 dash board retaining bolts , behind the ash tray in the front.
Remove the big pipe between heater air in box and fan housing - compress it and pull away.
Remove the one bolt on the passenger side heater duct and pull it out, just push fit o the ends.
Remove 2 bolts securing heater air in box and pulling the dash forward, with a struggle you can just get the box out.
Remove the heater duct to the passenger face vent, just pulls off.
Remove the 2 screws on the matrix cover and the screw in the pipe clamp just forward of the cover.
Remove the engine bay side pipes - Bit of struggle but they come in the end.
Cut the old heater matrix pipes under the dash.
Pull out pipe stumps and slide the old matrix out.
Draw a template of the pipes on your new matrix - so you can make the pipe lengths when you cut.
Take out a 2 inch section and replace with rubber hose (16mm I uses as half inch pipe is only 12.7mm and way too tight).
Now my first mistake that cost me a heater matrix and I had to get anotherm I tried to install with the flexi pipes fitted but the strain you put on the joints of the pipes to the matrix will bend and crack this joint.
So make your pipes so the dimensions are good, mark a line on the heater matrix side so you know how far to push the pipes back on then remove them
Push pipe stumps with flexi hose attached through the bulk head.
Insert the new heater matrix and then connect the flexi hose to stumps.
Get a bit of help to hold the pipes in the cab whilst you connect the engine bay side.
One point to watch is the new rubber flexi pipes are bigger and get very close to the control arm on the heater box for the temp control, too close and it will jam this from working so bit of adjustment before you bolt it all back in.
Reverse fit the lot.
This repair worked but I think it only saved removing the drivers side dash parts )steering wheel / instrument pod etc, if it doesn't last it will be a dash out, taking my time the above repair took a full day....maybe I did it wrong but being ok with a spanner I couldn't see any other way..
 
Anyone tried this?? I've started but can't see how to remove the cabin filter box any clues ??


Hi It does sound like them matrix , if it is dont be fooled by the," it a long job and expensive" its not , the matrix is £62 off ebay , and with a bit of an easy mod to the pipes can be replaced in 1hr max , i know i did mine, very easy , DO NOT BE FOOLED by scarey comments of its a £1000 and the dash comes out,

The only reason the dash had to come out is because the pipes are solid , replace them with flexible pipes gets around that problem and reduces cost and time.

First buy matrix from EBay £62

matrix1.jpg


Buy 1 metre of ½ inch water pipe and 4 x suitable jubilee clips

Begin by disconnecting the pipes under the bonnet that go in and out of the matrix.

From under the dash passenger side, remove the big black plastic air box that contains the cabin filter. (3 screws in the floor and bulk head)

Remove 3 inch flex pipe to heater.

Remove the clip that holds the cover to the pipes on the side of the matrix heater box.

Remove the 2 screws that hold the cover on the side of the matrix heater box.

Remove the glove box inner.

With some snips or hacksaw crush and cut the two pipes off the matrix and pull them through the bulk head out the way.

The matrix will now slide out from the heater box easy, and from under the dash.

With the new matrix cut a 2 inch section out of each pipe and replace with a section of hose, thus making the connection flexible.

matrix2.jpg

matrix3.jpg


Push the matrix back in the heater box and with your now flexible pipes, poke them through the bulk head.

Reconnect the pipes under the bonnet and replace glove box and heater parts, refill system remembering to bleed the matrix as well.

Job done, NOT EXPESIVE AND NO DASH OUT, easy.

sorry about the pics best i could do ,


Mick
 

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