The plot thickens car been testing the battery with a multimeter and it' been showing the battery at 12.4 to 12.6 after a run.
That I thought was ok but just grabbed my fluke clamp meter out of the van and it' giving me a reading of 12.3 so the old meter maybe inaccurate. I think it' new battery time. The original is a banner but there' no date on it.
 
Stampey said:
Anyone recommend a good ale of battery for the fl2
Click to expand...
Look for one with the correct CCA and Ah size. Check the owner manwell. Cheap is often nasty. Also the right type to suit, like if yer has stop/start it will probably be AGM rather than normal wet lead acid.

What is the voltage across the battery when it's charging ont tick over?
 
I still can' understand why there is pedal fault flagging when there's good voltage coming out of the pedal.
Is it possible the fluctuations in the tick over could be cause by the throttle control module as they are prone to wear.
 
Ok left car ticking over for a bit and the battery is back up a bit.
Tested the yellow orange wire from the pedal at the bcm and I'm getting 0.1 to 0.2 volts so obviously there's a drop in voltage across the wire somewher as it' leaving the pedal at 0.6v
 
It’s always worth checking for AC ripple at the alt B+ terminal when battery/charging problems coincide with odd electrical faults.
 
I'l look into that one...
I've changed the Haldex fuse to 5 amps.
It didn't blow so I guess that' a good sign
 
Well......
New battery and......
Faults still there
That's around 30 pints of beer I won't be drinking
Oh well
 
Stampey said:
Well......
New battery and......
Faults still there
That's around 30 pints of beer I won't be drinking
Oh well
Click to expand...
Think of it as an expensive diagnostic test - you can rule out the battery as a problem now :p

That still leaves the charging system, as the old battery presumably wasn’t being charged properly.
 
Tbh the old battery was probably low on charge as it's not been driven much due to the fault.
What's stranger is I'm not getting off the drive now before the fault kicks in.
 
Stampey said:
Tbh the old battery was probably low on charge as it's not been driven much due to the fault.
What's stranger is I'm not getting off the drive now before the fault kicks in.
Click to expand...
Well, all the more reason to check alternator AC ripple. If an alt diode fails, the resulting AC-on-DC will not charge the battery properly and may play havoc with sensors.

A freshly-charged battery will be absorbing less charge and so will not ‘damp’ the ripple as well.

Look for less than 0.5V ac between alt B+ and a nearby earth. Try it loaded and unloaded. Allow the battery to recover from starting.
 
Will give it a go.
Here's one for you when I insert the key and press the start button without depressing the brake pedal it goes into test mode.
If I leave it in that mode for a few minutes the fault occurs.
That's without the alternator running....
 
Stampey said:
Will give it a go.
Here's one for you when I insert the key and press the start button without depressing the brake pedal it goes into test mode.
If I leave it in that mode for a few minutes the fault occurs.
That's without the alternator running....
Click to expand...
Hmmm... maybe not, then.

We might need a wiring diagram. How many wires does the pedal sensor have?
 
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