S

Stampey

Member
I have a 2007 freelander 2 that has a fault. Drives fine until I have travelled 4 miles or so and the following happens I get terrain response system faulty message on the dash that shuts down terrain response functions and within a minute the fuel gauge drops with warning light and beep and low fuel message on sat navigation. After a mile or so car goes into limp mode.
The fault will reset if I stop the car for half an hour or so.
Codes read:
BCM
P1348-00 fuel level sensor B circuit low
C1108-01, C1108-12, B1029-21 pedal sensor faults
ATM
U0401-94 invalid data
PCM
P0222-00 TPS low input
Thanks
 
You need to find someone with a Gap Diagnostics IID reader as that will give you unequalled information.

It does sound like a bad connection though. Water can get to some wiring connections, which may be the cause.
 
Last edited:
I would investigate the fuel level senders as a first port of call

Check both sensors are free to move in the tank and then check the wiring and resistances
 
Have replaced both senders done the wiring mod and checked wiring from bcm pinouts back to the tank.
All seems good that end
 
What resistance readings are you getting on a full and empty tank and when the fault occurs?

There’s a small transfer pump inside the tank which transfers the fuel across the saddle and this might not be working all the time
 
I checked the new senders b4 they went in the tank and readings were good.tbh the old senders were reading good as well but figured it might have been the connection to the eject sender.
The fault code as far as I can see relates to sender B the eject sender. So I bypassed sender B with a resistor and it still went into fault.
Lots of owners seem to suffer these full gauge faults but none mention having terrain response fault first so I'm kind of thinking I'm barking up the wrong tree.
I had a hunch that there maybe a bad splice on the earth from the haldex and fuel pump in the boot....
 
Yeh fault was there before. The only thing that' changed is the distance travelled before the fault kicks in. Started about 20 miles and has slowly get less each time, now I'm at 4miles constant.
 
Check the yellow and orange wire from throttle pedal to the bcm connector C1BP02B pin 29 as that’s reporting a fault code for less then 3% of supply voltage (5V)

You should be able to live data this from BCM and PCM to check what the cars seeing as well
 
Good call. Looks like it's had a new pedal recently so could be the wiring hopefully not the bcm....
Will have a look tomorrow eve, ive just finished laying 2 tonne of concrete and I'm nakered ...
 
Stampey said:
I need to invest in a code reader as last two times I've had to pay my local indy to do the diagnostics
Click to expand...

If you can stretch to it, you'll not get a better reader/programmer then the Gap Diagnostics IID BT. It's small enough to fit in the glove box and you access every ECU via a smart phone or tablet.
 
0 6 volts out of the pedal in tickover which i think is 12% but im not sure what voltage should be coming back
just need to find a way of testing voltage at the bcm.
 
Stampey said:
0 6 volts out of the pedal in tickover which i think is 12% but im not sure what voltage should be coming back
just need to find a way of testing voltage at the bcm.
Click to expand...
How many wires does the pedal have? I thought throttle sensors had two pots, going opposite ways for redundancy.

If you can find a pinout for the BCM, you can back-probe the appropriate pins with plastic-coated paperclips suitably bent and stripped. Be very careful not to cross them.

Often, there are several 5V supply rails to groups of sensors. If a sensor is faulty and pulling the rail down, you’ll get a group of seemingly unrelated faults. A wiring diagram would help, but unplugging each sensor one by one and seeing when the 5V rail comes back is a good way to do it. The flip side of this is that you can only determine the actual rail voltage by back-probing at connectors, because if you unplug to get at the pins, the rail might come back up again and make you think all is well.
 
Its tight to get the the back of the conector with the bcm in situ. I guess I can test the supply voltage at the pedal for 5v easy enough. If that's
5v and I have 0.6 minimum coming back I might need to test the pedal throughout its range of travel to see if there is any dead spots.
It's been suggested that the Haldex pump or pcb might be causing these issues so that's something else to look into.
I probably will need a good auto sparky in the end as I'm getting out of my depth fast.
 
Hi all
Had a quick run through the pedal and its kicking out 0.6 to 4v at full travel.
Doesn't appear to be any dead spots.
Whar was odd though whilst car was only sat with the ignition on and not running the fault appeared after about 3 mins
 
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