jonnynoname28

jonnynoname28

Member
My Freelander Adventurer has developed a vibration. It on happens when we're travelling between 30-50 mph if we go faster it quietens down. No vibration on steering at all and sounds like front of the car. There's no powerloss and the tyres look fine
 
Wheel balancing tends to have a 'band' of speeds like you are describing.

Check if weights have fallen off a wheel?
Are tyres same make and tread depth?
Have you tested VCU with one wheel up test? Search this forum if not for details.

Failing that it could be Driveshafts, IRD or gearbox or diff output bearing or wheel bearing.
 
Gosh that sounds a bit expensive. Had the rear tyres done a week ago but the problem was around before that. I've no idea what or how to do the one wheel up test. I'm not technically minded at all
 
Well i guess we've found what the problem was, Driving along today and the rear Diff started smoking and leaking oil. Can anyone recommend a place for refurbs and would it be sensible to replace the VCU at the same time? Thanks
 
That's a most unfortunate development, recommendations of good garages would be easier if you stated your location, and yes I'd recommend doing the VCU at the same time, as it is typically a failure of the VCU into a seized solid mode that induces the failure of the other driveline components.
 
jonnynoname28 said:
Ok thanks. My location is Sheffield UK. Is it likely to have caused any other damage?
Click to expand...
It could easily have damaged the IRD.
Half the Freelanders in the country have no prop shaft because of this problem.
A quick Google will tell you everything or search for one wheel up test but unfortunately in your case you're too late to test it if it's already damaged your rear diff.
Sorry for the bed news.
 
So what would be the best plan of action? Love my freelander but if the prop is not put back, how would that affect the insurance?
 
jonnynoname28 said:
So what would be the best plan of action? Love my freelander but if the prop is not put back, how would that affect the insurance?
Click to expand...
It could invalid insurance if you don't tell them. Nobody has ever heard of it happening tho and most people buying Freelanders that have the prop shaft missing don't even know.
It would be up to you to weigh up the cost of fixing it against the cost of telling your insurance and potentially reducing its resale value.
 
How much will this cost to fix, what's the cheapest way to do it? Car still starts with no obvious noises and can still engage the gears no problem
 
Have a look at the rubber surround of the prop shaft bearings mine has a vibration albeit more on turning but it appears the prop bearing carrier is done for packed the gap out to test and no more vibration
 
With the prop shaft removed the car will still drive OK so long as the IRD has survived. It's likely to be harmed in some way but could still last for years. The rear diff might even be OK as it won't be driven without the propshaft. It is just being dragged.
That's the cheapest way to get the car back on the road if you're lucky enough the IRD has survived.
The problem is the issue has built up over years and may have come to a head with a soft tyre or such. This means even if the IRD is still working it will be heavily worn and may not last long.
Unfortunately it's a very common situation with older Freelanders.
 
The VCU will have caused all the issues so best option is to contact Bell engineering for a recon unit but there really is no point until you've checked the IRD. Many Freelanders have been written off because of this problem.
The VCU stiffens over time and stops allowing the front wheels to turn at a slightly different speed to the rears. This causes wind up in the transmission and something has to give.
 
Crikey. Is the IRD to expensive to replace or does that cause other damage too? Obviously i can't keep chucking cash at it but in the current climate car prices have risen
 
jonnynoname28 said:
Crikey. Is the IRD to expensive to replace or does that cause other damage too? Obviously i can't keep chucking cash at it but in the current climate car prices have risen
Click to expand...

IRD is silly expensive.
Are the new tyres identical to the two already on there? The FL1 is hyper fussy on tyres, needing the same all round, with the least worn on the rear.

Running in anything other than this configuration will cause damage to the VCU fluid, which then goes stiff and overloads the IRD, which then fails.
 
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