Thatsjustdandy · Jun 16, 2019

Hi,
I’m thinking of getting my series 3 waxoyled. The chassis is currently sound and I’d like to keep it that way. Is waxoyl (or any other sprayed product) a good idea or does it just make subsequent maintenance a messy process if everything is covered in a protective coating? I don’t want rust but then again I don’t want to get covered in waxoyl every time I work under the Landy. What do you think?

jamesmartin · Jun 16, 2019

Thatsjustdandy said:
Hi,
I’m thinking of getting my series 3 waxoyled. The chassis is currently sound and I’d like to keep it that way. Is waxoyl (or any other sprayed product) a good idea or does it just make subsequent maintenance a messy process if everything is covered in a protective coating? I don’t want rust but then again I don’t want to get covered in waxoyl every time I work under the Landy. What do you think?

yes its a good idea and it does dry enough not to be messy when working on it, paint is best but it needs to be rust free ,whereas waxoyl type products help to preserve what vehicles are usually like

rob1miles · Jun 17, 2019

Pay a lot of attention to getting it inside, that's where it does the most good.

300bhp/ton · Jun 17, 2019

Thatsjustdandy said:
Hi,
I’m thinking of getting my series 3 waxoyled. The chassis is currently sound and I’d like to keep it that way. Is waxoyl (or any other sprayed product) a good idea or does it just make subsequent maintenance a messy process if everything is covered in a protective coating? I don’t want rust but then again I don’t want to get covered in waxoyl every time I work under the Landy. What do you think?

Waxoyl is good. There are lots of similar products, but ultimately most work in the same fashion. The main problem people have is, Waxoyl won't get rid of rust, it might slow it if it's already there, but it works best when applied to good metal.

It is messy to apply (or though there are companies that will do it for you). It should then cure into a semi tacky covering. It can make some other jobs more messy, but it is doing it's job.

rob1miles · Jun 17, 2019

Agreed, Waxoil has a degree of "self repair" so it will flow over small scratches because it stays a bit goey, but it wears off over time so its a case doing it to last a few years then doing it again. I waxoiled my chassis 5 years ago and it needs doing this summer.

Interceptorxj · Jun 17, 2019

I agree with all of the above, had great results with it as a rust preventer over the years.

scottonthefen · Jun 18, 2019

What's waxoyl and similar treatments like near welding? On the outside it can be cleaned off the weld site but if you get it on the inside like you're meant to that can be harder to get at.. Is it flammable?

Disco1BFG · Jun 18, 2019

Thatsjustdandy said:
Hi,
I’m thinking of getting my series 3 waxoyled. The chassis is currently sound and I’d like to keep it that way. Is waxoyl (or any other sprayed product) a good idea or does it just make subsequent maintenance a messy process if everything is covered in a protective coating? I don’t want rust but then again I don’t want to get covered in waxoyl every time I work under the Landy. What do you think?

IMHO, there are better products out there than Waxoyl - principally Dinitrol and Bilt Hamber - they are similar money but MUCH better - Waxoyl has become a "safe" product for domestic consumption - the others are full of VOC's which help them work, but will not do your lungs any good - so wear the right mask

I use products from both the above, and they dry to a semi hard self healing coating which is not "sticky" per se, more "waxy" IME. Dintrol even do a clear wax for protecting painted surfaces, but it only takes the gloss off the finish - rather than obliterating it ...

Best results are IME, obtained by de-rusting first with Fertan ( or equivalent ), and then phospating, etch priming, and painting, then protect the paint with the wax ....

It's been done to death as a topic on here - worth a search

DanClarke · Jun 18, 2019

Jenolite anyone? ;-)
Would it be good to spray all cavities with Jenolite and then Waxoyl after it has "cured"?

Disco1BFG · Jun 18, 2019

DanClarke said:
Jenolite anyone? ;-)
Would it be good to spray all cavities with Jenolite and then Waxoyl after it has "cured"?

Maybe - I like Fertan, given that it uses water to activate and do its work .... I like the irony

- I got a really cheap spray gun off the web, and use it to mist Fertan into cavities .......

Henry_b · Jun 18, 2019

It just sits on top of rust providing an incubator for rot..

case in point. my Jag that was "waxoyled"

it just sets hard and floats on top..

that is a piece of waxoyl with my subframe attahed to it.

crap prehistoric puke..

best use Bilt hamber or dinitrol..

300bhp/ton · Jun 19, 2019

Henry_b said:
It just sits on top of rust providing an incubator for rot..

case in point. my Jag that was "waxoyled"

it just sets hard and floats on top..

that is a piece of waxoyl with my subframe attahed to it.

crap prehistoric puke..

best use Bilt hamber or dinitrol..

sorry but that is just an example of misusing the product and blaming it for lack of self understanding on what it does and is designed for. Exactly what I described in my earlier post.

300bhp/ton · Jun 19, 2019

jamesmartin · Jun 19, 2019

Henry_b said:
It just sits on top of rust providing an incubator for rot..

case in point. my Jag that was "waxoyled"

it just sets hard and floats on top..

that is a piece of waxoyl with my subframe attahed to it.

crap prehistoric puke..

best use Bilt hamber or dinitrol..

i think youll find any sealant applied to that would have had the same result ,theres no miracle cures when applying a product to an old vehicle ,but soft wax will slow it down

Henry_b · Jun 19, 2019

So we'll just ignore the fact that subframe was ground down to bare metal before application?

Ok..

It's prehistoric crap..

jamesmartin · Jun 19, 2019

Henry_b said:
So we'll just ignore the fact that subframe was ground down to bare metal before application?

Ok..

It's prehistoric crap..

theres not the full story there, and what idiot would apply waxoyl or other to a ground back to bare metal surface it would have been primers and chassis black then waxoyl or other sealer,the reason you waxoyl underneath as its not feasible to prep and paint unless its a new vehicle where its a wash and sealer where the sealer is protecting and filling breaks in manufacturers protection

Henry_b · Jun 19, 2019

jamesmartin said:
theres not the full story there, and what idiot would apply waxoyl or other to a ground back to bare metal surface it would have been primers and chassis black then waxoyl or other sealer,the reason you waxoyl underneath as its not feasible to prep and paint unless its a new vehicle where its a wash and sealer where the sealer is protecting and filling breaks in manufacturers protection

Aye it has kurust applied before application..

Not a good advert tbf..

300bhp/ton · Jun 19, 2019

Henry_b said:
So we'll just ignore the fact that subframe was ground down to bare metal before application?

Ok..

It's prehistoric crap..

Bare metal could still have corrosion in it. If you didn't prep before applying the waxoyl then that wouldn't help. And I have no idea on the use or duration or how it was maintained.

It still seems obvious you are blaming a product for your misuse and lack of understanding of it. You also have no benchmark to know how an alternative product would have fared for the same use/duration/location/item.

Henry_b · Jun 19, 2019

300bhp/ton said:
Bare metal could still have corrosion in it. If you didn't prep before applying the waxoyl then that wouldn't help. And I have no idea on the use or duration or how it was maintained.

It still seems obvious you are blaming a product for your misuse and lack of understanding of it. You also have no benchmark to know how an alternative product would have fared for the same use/duration/location/item.

Read the post above this one

Disco1BFG · Jun 19, 2019

jamesmartin said:
theres not the full story there, and what idiot would apply waxoyl or other to a ground back to bare metal surface it would have been primers and chassis black then waxoyl or other sealer,the reason you waxoyl underneath as its not feasible to prep and paint unless its a new vehicle where its a wash and sealer where the sealer is protecting and filling breaks in manufacturers protection

The BH salt spray tests start with bare steel.

Many years ago, Waxoyl used to be pretty good .... and we used to use quite a bit of it. Now, based on my experience, it is utter crap and not fit for purpose .... so we don't use it, we use BH and Dinitrol, which does work.

Also, IME, BH UB Wax would have stopped the rust on @Henry_b 's subframe.

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