Good plan, apart from the waxoyl ;) - seriously, have a look at both the salt spray test results I linked to above, AND have a look at what @gstuart achieved with BH / Dinitrol ....



Agreed :) - @1988smithy - here's a picture of my D1 sill, which I replaced 4 years ago* , and, having degreased with brake cleaner, I just sprayed it with BH Dynax S-50 inside and out - if you zoom you can see inside the sill too ... I would say this is virtually corrosion proof .... and it has NOT been re-treated ........

(* the pic was taken a few mins ago - check the exif data if you like )

View attachment 181750


You can even see where the underseal was scraped off to glue the new inner sill in place ..... and yet ... no rust ... :)

Mate 100% agree with ya. I read the test pdf earlier when you posted it. But honestly, I just need to keep this d3 going for 3-4years max and I'll be chopping it in. I'm gonna be using kurust and a tin of hammerite ive already got in the garage know what i mean? Its one of them rush jobs, i aint got the time or money to go the whole hog. My main concern is sorting the drivetrain so i can use the feckin thing! I understand prep and coatings, ive worked with em in automotive and construction so it'll have the best chance of being a good application.

I get why people such as yourself go to the lengths you do. Gary has gone so in depth with his d3 it's worth it, yours is a keeper as well and i respect that, id go the same lengths on something that meant the same to me. mines just a tool for me, its not my baby.

Just wanted to run my method past people, if I do it right I think it'll do a job for me, I know it's not the right stuff for everyone but it'll do for what my landy needs. It's a bit if a weird case of rust, it's in very localised areas suggesting cow shìt has clung to certain places lmao. The inner box section of where it's holes is A1 so not complete rot.
 
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That looks mint.

Seldom see a rust free Disco of anykind. ;)

Thanks - it's getting there ;) - here's a piccie of the A-frame ...... The "sheen" on the paint is Dinitrol 4010 clear high temperature wax - Chosen for being clear - I'm hoping the A-frame doesn't get hot any time soon :confused: :)

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Mate 100% agree with ya. I read the test pdf earlier when you posted it. But honestly, I just need to keep this d3 going for 3-4years max and I'll be chopping it in. I'm gonna be using kurust and a tin of hammerite ive already got in the garage know what i mean? Its one of them rush jobs, i aint got the time or money to go the whole hog. My main concern is sorting the drivetrain so i can use the feckin thing! I understand prep and coatings, ive worked with em in automotive and construction so it'll have the best chance of being a good application.

I get why people such as yourself go to the lengths you do. Gary has gone so in depth with his d3 it's worth it, yours is a keeper as well and i respect that, id go the same lengths on something that meant the same to me. mines just a tool for me, its not my baby.

Just wanted to run my method past people, if I do it right I think it'll do a job for me, I know it's not the right stuff for everyone but it'll do for what my landy needs. It's a bit if a weird case of rust, it's in very localised areas suggesting cow shìt has clung to certain places lmao. The inner box section of where it's holes is A1 so not complete rot.

Ok, If you've already got the stuff, and you're not keeping the vehicle for long, then it'll probably preserve it - with any luck it'll be really old stuff dating from when waxoyl was good :)

My advise was based on buying new stuff .... and you know what I said :D ;)
 
Mint..

Loving that, sets an example that D1 I should think ;) :)

Thanks - It's the one in my avatar ... I'm intending to keep it forever :)

I love it when the MOT guy goes underneath it and shakes his head in disbelief :D - then gets the rest of the garage staff over to look too :)

S'pose it should have a fred of its own really :rolleyes: - but then SWMBO's (D1) would need a fred too :rolleyes::rolleyes: ......
 
Thanks - It's the one in my avatar ... I'm intending to keep it forever :)

I love it when the MOT guy goes underneath it and shakes his head in disbelief :D - then gets the rest of the garage staff over to look too :)

S'pose it should have a fred of its own really :rolleyes: - but then SWMBO's (D1) would need a fred too :rolleyes::rolleyes: ......
Very smart motor..

I'd love a D1 but chances are they're all resto projects now ;)
 
Hi @Disco1BFG

Here’s some piccies of my chassis after treatment, sprayed inside and out of the chassis , also inside the skin of the body

There’s plenty of drainage holes in the D3 chassis so was able to see when Injecting the dinitrol inside the chassis could see it coming out of the various holes as the wand was pushed in further covering the entire chassis

Was very happy to know the chassis as far as I can tell is solid , hit every section I could with a hammer to ensure there weren’t any hidden areas

21E659DE-5906-49E9-B14E-8A306911720D.jpeg
CDEB6ED2-F22E-4D49-8099-777AC881264B.jpeg
0267A232-7DCB-47B1-87CE-D1A9FDD9885A.jpeg
0F779441-D14C-46D2-96EA-819B746A9AE3.jpeg
 
Hi @Disco1BFG

Here’s some piccies of my chassis after treatment, sprayed inside and out of the chassis , also inside the skin of the body

There’s plenty of drainage holes in the D3 chassis so was able to see when Injecting the dinitrol inside the chassis could see it coming out of the various holes as the wand was pushed in further covering the entire chassis

Was very happy to know the chassis as far as I can tell is solid , hit every section I could with a hammer to ensure there weren’t any hidden areas

And that, ladies and Gentlemen, is how we do that. :) - Great job there :):)

But, ..... @gstuart - you missed a bit :p .......... :D
 
Hi @Disco1BFG

Here’s some piccies of my chassis after treatment, sprayed inside and out of the chassis , also inside the skin of the body

There’s plenty of drainage holes in the D3 chassis so was able to see when Injecting the dinitrol inside the chassis could see it coming out of the various holes as the wand was pushed in further covering the entire chassis

Was very happy to know the chassis as far as I can tell is solid , hit every section I could with a hammer to ensure there weren’t any hidden areas

View attachment 181772 View attachment 181773 View attachment 181775 View attachment 181776

Looks mint ;)
 
Looks mint ;)

Many thks, I throughly checked the chassis the best I could before buying it , later on I removed the inner arches and sprayed in there as well

Am well pleased with it, just now doing those electrical panels etc

My favourite landy so far and such a joy to drive
 
Many thks, I throughly checked the chassis the best I could before buying it , later on I removed the inner arches and sprayed in there as well

Am well pleased with it, just now doing those electrical panels etc

My favourite landy so far and such a joy to drive

Does look fun to drive :)

Nice to know she'll last a good long while. ;)
 
Does look fun to drive :)

Nice to know she'll last a good long while. ;)

Was very surprised how well it drove, then after doing the suspension is was like night and day , remains well planted at motorway speeds and alot quieter than my old TD4 freelander

Know it’s takes extra work to keep it well maintained but well worth it
 
Was very surprised how well it drove, then after doing the suspension is was like night and day , remains well planted at motorway speeds and alot quieter than my old TD4 freelander

Know it’s takes extra work to keep it well maintained but well worth it
Aye it's twice the car ;)

But twice the enjoyment so defo worth it ;)
 

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