1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Good plan, apart from the waxoyl - seriously, have a look at both the salt spray test results I linked to above, AND have a look at what @gstuart achieved with BH / Dinitrol ....
Agreed - @1988smithy - here's a picture of my D1 sill, which I replaced 4 years ago* , and, having degreased with brake cleaner, I just sprayed it with BH Dynax S-50 inside and out - if you zoom you can see inside the sill too ... I would say this is virtually corrosion proof .... and it has NOT been re-treated ........
(* the pic was taken a few mins ago - check the exif data if you like )
View attachment 181750
You can even see where the underseal was scraped off to glue the new inner sill in place ..... and yet ... no rust ...
Mate 100% agree with ya. I read the test pdf earlier when you posted it. But honestly, I just need to keep this d3 going for 3-4years max and I'll be chopping it in. I'm gonna be using kurust and a tin of hammerite ive already got in the garage know what i mean? Its one of them rush jobs, i aint got the time or money to go the whole hog. My main concern is sorting the drivetrain so i can use the feckin thing! I understand prep and coatings, ive worked with em in automotive and construction so it'll have the best chance of being a good application.
I get why people such as yourself go to the lengths you do. Gary has gone so in depth with his d3 it's worth it, yours is a keeper as well and i respect that, id go the same lengths on something that meant the same to me. mines just a tool for me, its not my baby.
Just wanted to run my method past people, if I do it right I think it'll do a job for me, I know it's not the right stuff for everyone but it'll do for what my landy needs. It's a bit if a weird case of rust, it's in very localised areas suggesting cow shìt has clung to certain places lmao. The inner box section of where it's holes is A1 so not complete rot.
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