The V8 man

The V8 man

Well-Known Member
Im gonna change the water in the discovery for this new stuff, so how do you ensure every drop of water is out of the system, is it as simple as taking the bottom rad hose off ?
 
snake oil is why

if your coolant system isn't cooling your engine then something is wrong, waterless coolant won't cure it
 
But waterless coolant will still cool if the system is not efficient enough and the temp goes up - it will limit the temperature rise. Water based systems will boil the coolant away causing a complete lack of cooling and a catastrophic temperature rise.

I don't think it is snake oil. But, agreed, it also doesn't fix a compromised coolant system.
 
Ok i will explain why i want to do it, the disco runs perfectly in normal use it only gets very hot if im towing a car on my trailer and going up a long incline, i need to go and pick a car up from Ramsgate so im a bit worried if there are any long hills it will overheat so i thought this stuff would solve the problem ?
 
flat said:
snake oil is why

if your coolant system isn't cooling your engine then something is wrong, waterless coolant won't cure it
Click to expand...

No amount of fancy (and expensive) waterless coolant is going to make your cooling system any more efficient than the proper mix of water and the correct anti-freeze, whether the cooling system is working at its best or not. But it's your money I s'pose.
 
It's £55 for 5 litres from Demon Tweeks and I am guessing that does not include the flush that you need to get the water out of the system before you can fill with the waterless coolant. Say another £25 so £80 all up. And it isn't the perfect solution - it still boils (at 180° instead of about 106° for normal coolant) so I would still pull it over if it hits red on the gauge and let it cool down.

If that is value for money for the peace of mind you will get then go ahead.

I think I would see it as something expensive that only increases your tolerance for when it overheats and gives you a bit of extra time before having to pull over and switch it off. I think I would save the £80 and just keep a sharp eye on the temp gauge with normal coolant in. Keeping a sharp eye costs £0.00.
 
This might be better:

ae235
 
thinking about it, the only time it may be good is if you have a mega rare expensive car that rarely gets driven and you don't want corrosion maybe?
 
The V8 man said:
im a bit worried if there are any long hills it will overheat so i thought this stuff would solve the problem

Then you need to overhaul your cooling system, simple as that :rolleyes:
Using WCS is akin to taking pain-killers for tooth ache.
Click to expand...
 
flat said:
thinking about it, the only time it may be good is if you have a mega rare expensive car that rarely gets driven and you don't want corrosion maybe?
Click to expand...

from watching "several" Jay Leno's Garage vids on you tube, this appears to be his philosphy. Given the daft number of cars he has ( and fair play to him ), I might suggest he knows thing or two about rare and expensive! ( and preservation of same with ultra low usage )

IIRC it does have, by a few percentage points, a higher specific heat capacity than water & antifreeze - so it is a better coolant, but its not enough to make a substantive difference in a cooling system working at less than 100%.
 
cooltide said:
Or a Japanese one that doesn't p1ss coolant every time it breaks into a sweat
Click to expand...

What does happen with that if you spring a leak and you're out in the middle of nowhere? Say something daft like a weakened hose clip. Can't top up with water as it'll contaminate it so you'll need to carry some in reserve.
 
Bandit127 said:
It's £55 for 5 litres from Demon Tweeks and I am guessing that does not include the flush that you need to get the water out of the system before you can fill with the waterless coolant. Say another £25 so £80 all up. And it isn't the perfect solution - it still boils (at 180° instead of about 106° for normal coolant) so I would still pull it over if it hits red on the gauge and let it cool down.

If that is value for money for the peace of mind you will get then go ahead.

I think I would see it as something expensive that only increases your tolerance for when it overheats and gives you a bit of extra time before having to pull over and switch it off. I think I would save the £80 and just keep a sharp eye on the temp gauge with normal coolant in. Keeping a sharp eye costs £0.00.
Click to expand...

By the time the gauge moves you've prolly stuffed the heads anyways. :(
 
If you think your engine is running hot now then after you change to Waterless coolant it will run even hotter, It may not show on the gauge but it will be about 30c hotter in the metalwork, WC does not conduct heat as well as water antifreeze mix and it is also a much thicker liquid which requires more effort to circulate therefore putting more strain on your water pump.
Forget it.
Steve.
 
Contrasting opinions here, so lets have some facts.

Thermal Conductivity. (W/m-K)
Waterless = 0.27 Water/Propylene Glycol 50/50 = 0.378.

Viscosity (mPa.s at -40°C)
Evans = 2,000 Water/Propylene Glycol 50/50 = about 120 (it is 91 at -35°C)

I can't support Steve Flint's assertion that it will run 30° hotter - but it will tend to run hotter due to the lower conductivity.
It is also more viscous therefore the water pump and associated drive belt will have a tougher service life.
It may cause less corrosion but it certainly won't make a hot engine run cooler.


http://www.evanscoolant.com/Custome...ownload-files/high-performance-spec-sheet.pdf (Opens a PDF)
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-liquids-d_1260.html
http://www.viscopedia.com/viscosity-tables/substances/automotive-antifreeze/#c3245
 
What you are not considering is the transfer of heat from the metal to the coolant, there is a greater heat barrier between waterless coolant and the metal engine casings than there is between water /antifreeze and metal engine casings and the same applies in dissipating the heat from the coolant to the radiator . The thermal conductivity of WC may be less than antifreeze / water but the metal work runs hotter because the heat cannot be transferred to the coolant as efficiently as antifreeze/ water mix.
My own test carried out when trying to find out why a PI petrol engine was {running on } when using WC confirmed this point and also the 30c temperature increase that I measured at the cylinder head..
Read up on the specialist engine tuner Peter Burgess experience using WC
Steve..
 
So the WC allows the engine to run hotter before overheating, but isnt the idea of the WC to keep the engine cooler as it has no water content ?
 
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