battenberg
Well-Known Member
this is known as the 'Three Amigos' - search for that!
PASTMASTER
Well-Known Member
They won't go out on their own - have to be reset on Testbook. If you're lucky Testbook will also tell you what's wrong. So far I've counted 11 possible causes.......
D2 Com
Banned
They won't go out on their own - have to be reset on Testbook. If you're lucky Testbook will also tell you what's wrong. So far I've counted 11 possible causes.......
Mine came on one morning on my way to work this week and at the end of the day when going back home no 3 lights on, none came on, 3 amigos went off with the ignition in the a.m and not returned yet 2 days later. From this I conclude they can and do go out on their own.
martinhollings
New Member
it seams some go out and some stay on guess its the way the bcu is set up when mine come on they stay on
PASTMASTER
Well-Known Member
Oh dear. Yet another variation. On mine, when TWO lights come on they cancel when I switch ignition off. But when it progresses to THREE lights, they stay on for ever. And when I get to FOUR lights, the red one cancels but the three others stay on. Presumably it depends on what sort of fault you've got, or possibly on whether you have the upgrade SLABS ECU part no SRD500070, which apparently does a better job than the early one I have. Btw the chime warning only happens when the lights first come on. If they have not cancelled from previous run it won't warn you again.
PASTMASTER
Well-Known Member
In case it's of use, i've done a quick web search and picked up the following as possible causes of the problem. Testbook will be able to narrow it down, but may not always give the correct answer...
1. Worn or non-genuine brake shoes (said to be no.1 cause in US). Rattle or squeal can apparently activate sensors. One user reported that a rattle from a loosely secured brake pipe had set his off.
2. Faulty earth connection behind n/s headlamp.
3. Failed sensor.
4. Damaged wiring.
5. Damp or dirty harness connector at hub.
6. Early SLABS ECU software. Replacement with later part no SRD500070, which has better software with a wider tolerance, may solve problem.
7. Badly seated replacement sensor. Apparently may be difficult to seat the rubber O ring correctly on the Disco II, and this can cause the sensor bracket to bend and give incorrect gap. One mechanic suggests replacing the rubber seal with a very small amount of silicone sealer.
8. ABS modulator switches. It is possible to service the switches without replacing the modulator (LR service kit)
9. ABS modulator unit. Expensivo! Probably not economic to replace on most cars.
10. Play in bearings
11. Modulator caps recall. There was a recall to replace the modulator unit caps with thicker ones. Part no B148.
12. Unequal tyre pressures.
Good luck!
David
1. Worn or non-genuine brake shoes (said to be no.1 cause in US). Rattle or squeal can apparently activate sensors. One user reported that a rattle from a loosely secured brake pipe had set his off.
2. Faulty earth connection behind n/s headlamp.
3. Failed sensor.
4. Damaged wiring.
5. Damp or dirty harness connector at hub.
6. Early SLABS ECU software. Replacement with later part no SRD500070, which has better software with a wider tolerance, may solve problem.
7. Badly seated replacement sensor. Apparently may be difficult to seat the rubber O ring correctly on the Disco II, and this can cause the sensor bracket to bend and give incorrect gap. One mechanic suggests replacing the rubber seal with a very small amount of silicone sealer.
8. ABS modulator switches. It is possible to service the switches without replacing the modulator (LR service kit)
9. ABS modulator unit. Expensivo! Probably not economic to replace on most cars.
10. Play in bearings
11. Modulator caps recall. There was a recall to replace the modulator unit caps with thicker ones. Part no B148.
12. Unequal tyre pressures.
Good luck!
David
discoboy84
New Member
wheel bearing???
Urban Panzer
New Member
You can fix the ABS module for shuttle valve faults for the cost of some brake fluid and a little time (if it is that offcourse)
Trying all the little fixes "maybe" worth while, but the truth of it is you need it "diagnosed" properly with either Testbook, Rovacom, Autodiagnos or Nanocom.
(if it is that offcourse)Trying all the little fixes "maybe" worth while, but the truth of it is you need it "diagnosed" properly with either Testbook, Rovacom, Autodiagnos or Nanocom.
PASTMASTER
Well-Known Member
so they say. there should be no play (but all work and no play...)
Cheers David........however I think I can safely ignore 1 or 2 of those.
Still, shortly before this happening my brakes had started screaching.....however I will check sensor readings first and move on from there. Cheers Tom
PASTMASTER
Well-Known Member
Quick update on this: LR have modified the D2 wheel sensor harness - the new harness goes all the way to the ECU, bypassing the loom and previous connectors. I haven't seen this mentioned before (although I may have missed it) and be warned that suppliers are still selling the old-style sensors with the standard connector.
Please join me in praying to any gods who may or may not be out there that this has solved my problem!!!!
PASTMASTER
Well-Known Member
Just to update on this - the new-style sensor didn't solve the problem. Have put on a second hand later-model SLABS ECU and at last it seems to be cured. Experience suggests that if you register a front sensor fault on an early TD5, if there is no obvious fault with the hub and a replacement sensor doesn't help, then the ECU is the likely cause. btw a new ECU needs to be programmed with Testbook, and a second-hand one needs to be reset with Testbook before it can be programmed to your car - may not be straightforward.
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PASTMASTER
Well-Known Member
That may be the best solution of all!:doh:
