Thankyou i understand now.
I bought a “superbatt” lead calcium but have likely got standard 13.8v regulator.

It’s been fine for 7months, that trickle charger (Lidl?) you have mentioned may be my best alternative come winter :)
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Thankyou i understand now.
I bought a “superbatt” lead calcium but have likely got standard 13.8v regulator.

It’s been fine for 7months, that trickle charger (Lidl?) you have mentioned may be my best alternative come winter :)
Click to expand...

You can buy special chargers that cycle them and remove the sulphate build up from the plates, but not cheap.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Thankyou i understand now.
I bought a “superbatt” lead calcium but have likely got standard 13.8v regulator.

It’s been fine for 7months, that trickle charger (Lidl?) you have mentioned may be my best alternative come winter :)
Click to expand...
The Lidl/Aldi smart charger is excellent and not expensive.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Thankyou again Brian, this is not the first time you’ve done this for me :);):) - I clicked the link and they gave me £10 off so had it delivered for £3.13!!! and it says it’s the last one.

Bargain and I know I can fit it without breaking anything as I’ve already had that part off my alternator before.
Click to expand...

Famous last words. Right up there with: "5 minute job; should be able to knock this out before tea ..."
 
UPDATE....
went to car, fob unlocks and locks all doors.
Key in ignition. Turn pos 2. Windows not set. Engine disabled flashes quick on dashboard. Turn ignition. Engine turns over, no start.
Warning message appears, fuse 20 failed. Checked fuse 20, not blown.
Close doors bonnet, everything. Using key fob. Lock then unlock doors. Indicators flash each time.

Enter car, put key in ignition, try to start, turns over, no start. Same warning messages above.

Upon looking at handbook, no eka code.

Would fuse 20 cause non starting if becm fault, or fuse box fault.
 
P38dse1998 said:
UPDATE....
went to car, fob unlocks and locks all doors.
Key in ignition. Turn pos 2. Windows not set. Engine disabled flashes quick on dashboard. Turn ignition. Engine turns over, no start.
Warning message appears, fuse 20 failed. Checked fuse 20, not blown.
Close doors bonnet, everything. Using key fob. Lock then unlock doors. Indicators flash each time.

Enter car, put key in ignition, try to start, turns over, no start. Same warning messages above.

Upon looking at handbook, no eka code.

Would fuse 20 cause non starting if becm fault, or fuse box fault.
Click to expand...

Fuse 20 is for seats nothing to do with starting. It sounds very much as if BECM is out of sync with ECM. You need a Syncmate or someone with a Nanocom who knows how to use it to look at it for you.
 
wammers said:
Fuse 20 is for seats nothing to do with starting. It sounds very much as if BECM is out of sync with ECM. You need a Syncmate or someone with a Nanocom who knows how to use it to look at it for you.
Click to expand...
Contemplating buying a syncmate but that is for one purpose and at £130 I don't know if Id better just take the car and get the becm resync for 60. I'd much rather get a nanocom but they are expensive....
So there is no way to resync becm and ecu without nanocom or the like.
 
P38dse1998 said:
Contemplating buying a syncmate but that is for one purpose and at £130 I don't know if Id better just take the car and get the becm resync for 60. I'd much rather get a nanocom but they are expensive....
So there is no way to resync becm and ecu without nanocom or the like.
Click to expand...

No.
 
P38dse1998 said:
OK in process of buying a syncmate direct from black box solutions. £30 cheaper than ebay?! Work that out.
Click to expand...

Common as muck for brand new.
You should always try get your EKA code of the vehicle if you can. Either the PO has it scribbled somewhere usually, it’s in owners manual sometimes, I had it on a card in the original green case, or diagnostics to get around it.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Common as muck for brand new.
You should always try get your EKA code of the vehicle if you can. Either the PO has it scribbled somewhere usually, it’s in owners manual sometimes, I had it on a card in the original green case, or diagnostics to get around it.
Click to expand...

If he can open and lock car with fob and the engine turns over he does not need to enter EKA code. Would be handy to know it of course.
 
I’ve never needed it, only time engine disabled key in ignition sorted it - perhaps mine has already had something turned off in past?
Still comforting to know I have it and sure it is right one for vehicle - having to put it in was part reason for PO to get rid - I’ve never needed it :confused: genuinely think she just didn’t like him :rolleyes::)
 
RangeRoller dt said:
I’ve never needed it, only time engine disabled key in ignition sorted it - perhaps mine has already had something turned off in past?
Still comforting to know I have it and sure it is right one for vehicle - having to put it in was part reason for PO to get rid - I’ve never needed it :confused: genuinely think she just didn’t like him :rolleyes::)
Click to expand...

If your fob is synced putting key in ignition or pressing button on fob with key in will sort that. If your fob loses sync it cannot be resynced until the EKA code has been accepted.
 
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